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Toyota rear disc conversion
- Thread starter Yotanut
- Start date
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
early 90s 1" thick (light duty) chevy 1500 rotors, turn/grind/bore the center hole out to fit over the toyota flange
small metric GM calipers (mid 80s GM cars, s10, etc)
make your own brackets out of 1/4 plate and some 1/4" spacers + hardware to get the offset right
Or buy the brackets
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/toyota-axle-differential/products/toy-rbb-001
Or buy the kit with rotors already machined, hoses, and brackets (source your own calipers)
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/toyota-axle-differential/products/toy-dbc-001?variant=19543732164
small metric GM calipers (mid 80s GM cars, s10, etc)
make your own brackets out of 1/4 plate and some 1/4" spacers + hardware to get the offset right
Or buy the brackets
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/toyota-axle-differential/products/toy-rbb-001
Or buy the kit with rotors already machined, hoses, and brackets (source your own calipers)
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/toyota-axle-differential/products/toy-dbc-001?variant=19543732164
grcthird
Birmingham, AL
Copy and pasted from my build thread 4 years ago. Also I was running the bigger master cylinder Cardone part number 13-2713 (94 Toyota pickup)
Parts list and numbers:
86-95 rear Toyota housing and shafts
Inner and outer wheel bearing seals, National 1960 and 1956
4x4 or prerunner Tacoma discs, Partsmaster 125503
75 Chevy C20 front calipers, Cardone 18-4035 and 18-4036
Brake pads, Partsmaster MD 52
Brake hoses, Tru Torque, H68551 and H68550
Banjo Bolts, Dorman 13935
Blue Torch Fab weld on 60/14 brackets, 11023
Misc tube nuts that I had at the shop with some hard brake line
I had to turn the wheel mount flange on the axel shaft down so the rotors would slip over. I was originally going to use some Tacoma calipers I had, but from everything I read everybody says it's better to use the GM floating style caliper. Lots of looking and thinking and head scratching made me realize that the Taco rotors would work due to the offset and the contact area for the pads is big enough. I got a set of the BTF brackets and mocked all this up. The brackets needed some material removed from the inside where it welds to the axle since the diameter of the Taco rotors vs the Chevy rotors is slightly smaller. Also I reversed the mounting studs and tacked them into housing since the nuts would not be removable with the bracket welded on.
Pictures of all this are in here. http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/grcthird/library/85%20Toyota?sort=3&page=1
Parts list and numbers:
86-95 rear Toyota housing and shafts
Inner and outer wheel bearing seals, National 1960 and 1956
4x4 or prerunner Tacoma discs, Partsmaster 125503
75 Chevy C20 front calipers, Cardone 18-4035 and 18-4036
Brake pads, Partsmaster MD 52
Brake hoses, Tru Torque, H68551 and H68550
Banjo Bolts, Dorman 13935
Blue Torch Fab weld on 60/14 brackets, 11023
Misc tube nuts that I had at the shop with some hard brake line
I had to turn the wheel mount flange on the axel shaft down so the rotors would slip over. I was originally going to use some Tacoma calipers I had, but from everything I read everybody says it's better to use the GM floating style caliper. Lots of looking and thinking and head scratching made me realize that the Taco rotors would work due to the offset and the contact area for the pads is big enough. I got a set of the BTF brackets and mocked all this up. The brackets needed some material removed from the inside where it welds to the axle since the diameter of the Taco rotors vs the Chevy rotors is slightly smaller. Also I reversed the mounting studs and tacked them into housing since the nuts would not be removable with the bracket welded on.
Pictures of all this are in here. http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/grcthird/library/85%20Toyota?sort=3&page=1
ftoy516
NOT PART OF THE HERD!
If you are interested in staying with toyota stuff i used this on my rig and it has worked out great....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1034855-new-disk-brake-conversion-kit.html
depending on how you get the parts it can be more or less expensive ....i chose to get the caliper brackets and bolts from them and source my calipers and rotors locally, and if you get the calipers from a junk yard it could be even cheaper.
i wanted to stay with Toyota stuff, I liked the whole idea of having a slip-on rotor and the ability to have a spare axle shaft with nothing else special that you had to have (such as a spacer plate like some of the other kits have), that way in the event that you break a shaft all you have to do is take the caliper off, the rotor off and slide the new shaft in...
when doing this conversion you will have to:
remove the drum from the assembly, the shoes and any other hardware on the backing plate
Cut the backing plate around the axle tube mounting flange, CUT on the backing plate (this will look like a square around where the axle studs bolt to the axle housing)
After the backing plate is cut away there will be a piece of the plate left between the bearing pocket...you will have to knock the studs out of the bearing pocket to get what is left of the backing plate away from the assembly, after it was free from the bearing pocket... just cut it on both sides of the square to be removed (this piece of plate can't be remove unless cut, because it can't slip over the bearing pocket or the end of the axle shaft)
Reassemble the studs back into the bearing pocket (they are splined)
Clean it and that is it.
install the shaft back into the housing.
bolt the brackets on the axle flange.
slip the rotor on.
bolt up the caliper.
it is a simple setup
Hope this helps.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1034855-new-disk-brake-conversion-kit.html
depending on how you get the parts it can be more or less expensive ....i chose to get the caliper brackets and bolts from them and source my calipers and rotors locally, and if you get the calipers from a junk yard it could be even cheaper.
i wanted to stay with Toyota stuff, I liked the whole idea of having a slip-on rotor and the ability to have a spare axle shaft with nothing else special that you had to have (such as a spacer plate like some of the other kits have), that way in the event that you break a shaft all you have to do is take the caliper off, the rotor off and slide the new shaft in...
when doing this conversion you will have to:
remove the drum from the assembly, the shoes and any other hardware on the backing plate
Cut the backing plate around the axle tube mounting flange, CUT on the backing plate (this will look like a square around where the axle studs bolt to the axle housing)
After the backing plate is cut away there will be a piece of the plate left between the bearing pocket...you will have to knock the studs out of the bearing pocket to get what is left of the backing plate away from the assembly, after it was free from the bearing pocket... just cut it on both sides of the square to be removed (this piece of plate can't be remove unless cut, because it can't slip over the bearing pocket or the end of the axle shaft)
Reassemble the studs back into the bearing pocket (they are splined)
Clean it and that is it.
install the shaft back into the housing.
bolt the brackets on the axle flange.
slip the rotor on.
bolt up the caliper.
it is a simple setup
Hope this helps.
the_white_shadow
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2014
- Messages
- 816
I just reused my front solid rotors and calipers on my IFS rear axle. Bought some brackets and bolted everything up . Cheap and easy.
grcthird
Birmingham, AL
the_white_shadow said:
Link to brackets? I'd like to go this route in the future. I remember there was somebody making them years ago but then they stopped and I couldn't get them.
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
grcthird said:
They are all over ebay, just search "toyota rear disc bracket" and pick your poison (or sort by "Lowest price + shipping" laughing1 )
smbroady82
Well-Known Member
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/969800-easy-disc-brake-conversion.html
I did the above but with '95 Pathfinder calipers/rotors. I had to open up the rotors a touch but not bad. I used the cheapest bolt on caliper bracket I could find at the time. Had right around $100 in mine.
I did the above but with '95 Pathfinder calipers/rotors. I had to open up the rotors a touch but not bad. I used the cheapest bolt on caliper bracket I could find at the time. Had right around $100 in mine.
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
FWIW
After disc swapping the first few trucks I built and/or worked on for friends, I started just keeping the drum brakes
After disc swapping the first few trucks I built and/or worked on for friends, I started just keeping the drum brakes
jordan7118
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2010
- Messages
- 1,555
Good working drum brakes makes it hard to justify the time and effort of swapping to discs. However, in my case, I want to be able to carry a single shaft with no brakes and be able to pull off a caliper, slide out a shaft, swap rotor over to new shaft, and put a shaft back in. Likely have to pull both shafts and the third to get a broken stub out of the third when you break a shaft, but gotta do that whether you have discs or drums. Discs just make all that swapping over easier.TBItoy said:
My two cents. You certain,y have a valid point, which is why I'm still running factiry drums at the moment ;D
