Toyota Rod and Main Bearings

[frankybeans]

I've never built a toy motor before and I'd like to replace the rod and mains with the highest quality replacement bearings I can find.
Is there anyone out there making a better bearing than Clevite or Beck-Arnley?

Thanks, Frank

 

[Mark m.]

I've never built a toy motor before and I'd like to replace the rod and mains with the highest quality replacement bearings I can find.
Is there anyone out there making a better bearing than Clevite or Beck-Arnley?

Thanks, Frank

PM Trainwreck.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Clevite 77's will take a whole **** load of off camber oil starvation before they get too pissed off. Price shouldn't be too bad either.

 

[frankybeans]

Clevite 77's will take a whole **** load of off camber oil starvation before they get too pissed off. Price shouldn't be too bad either.

Thanks WHITE TRASH, I think I'll be going that way. I'm finding that I'd have to buy outrageous priced main caps to use a wider race quality bearing. I'm going with the Clevite 77's unless anyone comes up with some testimony on something else.

 

[Trainwreckinseattle]

To a point a bearing is a bearing is a bearing. For people who don't have accounts ordering clevite77 from napa or a machine shop will work fine.

However, the installation is the critical part. You can install the most expensive bearing in the world but if the crank is worn out it's going to fail. Or if you don't inspect the oil pump or know what to look for while inspecting the oil pump. etc...

Bearing crush, and bearing to crank clearance is very important.

There are many other little things too. You have to set the thrust with a Toyota or it will wear uneven and eventually fail destroying the crank, and block. This is achieved by "setting" the Center main cap, tightening it to 30 lbs then loosening the bolts all the way back off. Then again tightening to hardly anything, like 5 lbs. After that is done, take a large deadblow and smack the front and rear of the crank. This sets the main cap perfectly perpendicular to the crank. Then tighten to the correct torque spec.

Installation of the other bearings is relatively straight farward.


The devil is in the details, anyone can assemble an engine this is true. But only an engine assembled with knowledge or a lot of luck will last.

:hi:
Patrick

 

[frankybeans]

You have to set the thrust with a Toyota or it will wear uneven and eventually fail destroying the crank, and block.

Is this also true for the inline six blocks ?

 

[PUO-BANNED]

King :awesomework:

http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/html/engines.htm

 

[frankybeans]

King :awesomework:

http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/html/engines.htm

Hmmm ?
This is what they're claiming about thier alecular bearings:

"The layer of Alecular material is far thicker than traditional babbitt overlays (.015" vs. .0008"). This provides much greater embedability, especially for the macro-particles (greater than .0004" in diameter) that are most responsible for scratching crankshaft journals and tearing or weakening thin babbitt overlays."

"Vastly improved temperature resistance. Alecular material

 

[PUO-BANNED]

Hmmm ?
This is what they're claiming about thier alecular bearings:

"The layer of Alecular material is far thicker than traditional babbitt overlays (.015" vs. .0008"). This provides much greater embedability, especially for the macro-particles (greater than .0004" in diameter) that are most responsible for scratching crankshaft journals and tearing or weakening thin babbitt overlays."

"Vastly improved temperature resistance. Alecular material

 

[frankybeans]

Kurt used them in his 406. and you know how that kid is, he will spend a week researching valve cover bolts.

Are you going with the co co puff pistons and capitan crunch connecting rods while you have it apart?

:haha:

Are you trying to crack on a block that will hold 800rwhp on a stock bottom end ?
You need a real joke to tell, not these fairy tails you're posting.:haha:
This isn't an R series block.

 

[64FJ40]

Are you trying to crack on a block that will hold 800rwhp on a stock bottom end ?
You need a real joke to tell, not these fairy tails you're posting.:haha:
This isn't an R series block.

JZ or FZ?

 

[PUO-BANNED]

No not at all. :beer:

 

[frankybeans]

It's as 7m and it probly wouldn't hold 800 on the bottom end, just can't stand these guys that crack on "rice" motors.:haha:
Eat a **** PUO :awesomework:

 

[frankybeans]

I ended up going with the King Race bearings, found alot of threads on 1/4 miler forums. Turns out they're far superior to non alecular bearings like Clevite. These guys tear down and inspect after so many passes so they had plenty of wear photo's comparing the two.

 

[Rix]

Toyota factory bearings.
I'd call the king bearings (and the jap "black race" bearings) next pick.
I dint remember the name if the company that makes the black race bearings.
Clevite is garbage for a jap car.

 

[nick c]

Just FYI, I moved this over to the Tech section as it isn't 4x4 talk but more so about Tech. PM me if you have a question/issue with the move.

Carry on.

 

[86tuning]

Toyota factory bearings.

That's all we ever use around here on Toyota engines. However, using Toyota bearings requires sizing them properly, as they're select fit.

and, I definately agree with most of what trainwreck says.