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Transmission cooler in front of radiator?

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
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Dec 7, 2014
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Recently upgraded my radiator fans and the engine temp doesn't seem to flinch anymore for the most part. On one beatdown the trans actually got hotter than the coolant. That's a first for me. I've got a derale stacked plate trans cooler but now I'm wondering if maybe I should just mount a cooler without a fan in front of the radiator. On one hand, it might keep the trans cooler. However, maybe I'll lose some of my newfound engine cooling capability that I've searching for forever. Thoughts?
 
That's what I got on mine. No issues.

I use a big cooler ( Tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 )
 
That's what it looks like

image_19624.jpg
 
When you say you have a Derale stacked plate cooler, is it a remote one with a fan (like the Derale Atomic) or something else? I had been cooling the 32RH trans in my TJ with a Derale Atomic that was mounted under the hood, but had an air inlet through a series of holes in the inner fender and an outlet through louvers in the hood. It would tend to get to ~ 180F (the fan would come on) withing about 10 minutes and would tend to run a little warm (~ 200F sensor in pan) if you ran for extended times at highway speeds. When I stretched the front out, I swapped to a Griffin wider/shorter radiator ( GRI-1-26221-x) for clearance and added a Derale series 10000 16 row stacked plate cooler in front of the radiator. This cooler is fairly small, so it doesn't block a lot of the radiator, and is very efficient (~ 32,000 btu). I have that plumbed as the first cooler, and then it flows to the Derale Atomic under the hood before returning to the pan. So far with this set up the fan in the Atomic has never come on and trans temp stays ~ 175F or lower.

Long story short, a higher efficiency cooler can be smaller, so if you mount in front of the radiator it would potentially
20200824_102533.jpg
block less area. I'm using a single 16" SPAL clone with a shroud.
 
During my current build (YJ with SBC) I went back to auto and put this big trans cooler in front of the radiator. The dual contour fans no longer cut it and temps would climb fast. Switched back to a mech fan. Put a 6 cyl TJ shroud in and grabbed a 9 blade 18" fan out of a chevy truck and a hayden heavy duty clutch. Now my fan fights the thermostat. Everything stays nice and cold now.

trans cooler

That's what I got on mine. No issues.

I use a big cooler ( Tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 )

I run that one in my tow pig
 
2 of these :


Biggest/Baddest SPAL 12" fans on the market, outside of the brushless units.
Gotcha, I went with the 30102038 mainly because I wasn't sure if I could support the amp draw of yours. In hindsight, looks like they're about the same anyway.
 
When you say you have a Derale stacked plate cooler, is it a remote one with a fan (like the Derale Atomic) or something else? I had been cooling the 32RH trans in my TJ with a Derale Atomic that was mounted under the hood, but had an air inlet through a series of holes in the inner fender and an outlet through louvers in the hood. It would tend to get to ~ 180F (the fan would come on) withing about 10 minutes and would tend to run a little warm (~ 200F sensor in pan) if you ran for extended times at highway speeds. When I stretched the front out, I swapped to a Griffin wider/shorter radiator ( GRI-1-26221-x) for clearance and added a Derale series 10000 16 row stacked plate cooler in front of the radiator. This cooler is fairly small, so it doesn't block a lot of the radiator, and is very efficient (~ 32,000 btu). I have that plumbed as the first cooler, and then it flows to the Derale Atomic under the hood before returning to the pan. So far with this set up the fan in the Atomic has never come on and trans temp stays ~ 175F or lower.

Long story short, a higher efficiency cooler can be smaller, so if you mount in front of the radiator it would potentially View attachment 119850block less area. I'm using a single 16" SPAL clone with a shroud.
Yeah, mine is I think one of the atomic coolers. Remote stacked plate with a fan. Way better than the tube/fin with fan that I had but wondering if I could do better still. I know part of my problem is a really loose converter but that's not gonna change anytime soon.
 
During my current build (YJ with SBC) I went back to auto and put this big trans cooler in front of the radiator. The dual contour fans no longer cut it and temps would climb fast. Switched back to a mech fan. Put a 6 cyl TJ shroud in and grabbed a 9 blade 18" fan out of a chevy truck and a hayden heavy duty clutch. Now my fan fights the thermostat. Everything stays nice and cold now.

trans cooler



I run that one in my tow pig
If I was front mount then I'd definitely consider a mechanical fan but that's not the case here.
 
I know part of my problem is a really loose converter but that's not gonna change anytime soon.

I am sure this is the main cause, from having seen your buggy.
I'd send that TC back to PTC for a rebuild/stall adjustment. Cost me $150 and it was very quick. It would solve your drivability issues and the heat IMO.

If your're dead-set on not changing the stall, I'd add a big cooler inline with the current one. Can't hurt. But I don't think that's the "right" solution.
 
Last edited:
Gotcha, I went with the 30102038 mainly because I wasn't sure if I could support the amp draw of yours. In hindsight, looks like they're about the same anyway.

Yeah, barely higher draw. I sized the power supply and wiring (10ga) accordingly. The biggest difference between the 2 models is the HP of the motor, which enables a better airflow through multiple rows of coolers. Like I have on my buggy.
 
I am sure this is the main cause, from having seen your buggy.
I'd send that TC back to PTC for a rebuild/stall adjustment. Cost me $150 and it was very quick. It would solve your drivability issues and the heat IMO.

If your're dead-set on not changing the stall, I'd add a big cooler inline with the current one. Can't hurt. But I don't think that's the "right" solution.
We'll see, maybe I'll try to snatch it out of there this winter and send it in to them. I actually haven't even gotten it too hot yet, highest was maybe 190° but I'd be happy with a little cooler.
 
How did you fill/bleed your current cooler? With the lines down like that could there be a trapped air pocket reducing your cooling efficiency?
Ummm, I didn't do either of those. But you're right, I could see how air might have a hard time getting out of there. I should look into that.
 
How did you fill/bleed your current cooler? With the lines down like that could there be a trapped air pocket reducing your cooling efficiency?
GM and Ford both have been running factory trans coolers in that orientation for years with no issues. I have replaced them in trucks before after front end collisions and never bled them. Mine is mounted in the same orientation in my rig and my trans has never been over 190°. Never bled it after install. I'm with redneckengineered, if you've never seen anything over 190° keep on keeping on.
 

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