violent vibrations

gas is on the right · Dec 16, 2008

well good they are fixed..........but dam I need to sell mine I was hoping you wanted it:haha: :haha: .hey the sunday after x-mas you want to go to evans?:eeek:

zukkev · Dec 16, 2008

japerry said:
That might be worth taking a look. Although it is a cv drive shaft. Also found out that one of the tires was low.. only 10psi, the others at 23psi. =D it still vibrates, but I gotta go faster now (45-47mph)

Did your rig used to be flat black w/ some silver 'accents'???

japerry · Dec 16, 2008

zukkev said:
Did your rig used to be flat black w/ some silver 'accents'???

It used to look like this:

zukkev · Dec 16, 2008

Thought so....seen it over at Greg's place(by the airport)---I was wondering...

japerry · Dec 16, 2008

yup. and besides the highway, shes good to go.. It'd be awesome to join you guys sometime!

Front Driveline:

japerry · Dec 16, 2008

gas is on the right said:
well good they are fixed..........but dam I need to sell mine I was hoping you wanted it:haha: :haha: .hey the sunday after x-mas you want to go to evans?:eeek:

tempting.. it depends if my tow rig is being pulled apart for my veggie conversion. Are you available on Saturdays? my gf works sundays =/

PUO-BANNED · Dec 16, 2008

driveshaft/joints or bad pinion bearings

gas is on the right · Dec 16, 2008

yeah sat is good .......... Im really wanting get in some snow wheeling this year. and I really only have one buddy thats rig is ready to go.

PUO-BANNED · Dec 16, 2008

WTF ind of patch job is that :eeek:

gas is on the right · Dec 16, 2008

PUO said:
WTF ind of patch job is that :eeek:

you must be speaking of the driveline?:redneck:

japerry · Dec 17, 2008

gas is on the right said:
you must be speaking of the driveline?:redneck:

That would be the fine work of 'Northern Colorado Driveline Service' both front and rear. I probably should be getting an upgrade sometime soon ;-)

PUO-BANNED · Dec 17, 2008

:eeek: WOW :eeek:

I don't think the problem lies in the tires bieng out of balance.

410ZukiGirl · Dec 17, 2008

japerry said:
yup. and besides the highway, shes good to go.. It'd be awesome to join you guys sometime!

Front Driveline:

That patched up front shaft says alot.

The front slipyoke doesnt look like an original toyota OEM part either? :eeek:
On a long front shaft, the slipyoke end is the worst end to have a HOBO welded patch job on. it is multiplyed a ton by the lenght of the slipyoke. a hobo patch is a little better at the CV/Ujoint end, as it is shorter and any hoboness is kept to a minumun (shorter) compaerd to the longer end.:awesomework:

japerry · Dec 17, 2008

yah, when we replaced the ubolts 2 weeks ago, we found out the driveshaft is chevy... so I definitely need to get a new front driveline.. probably should get a new rear one too.

410ZukiGirl · Dec 17, 2008

japerry said:
yah, when we replaced the ubolts 2 weeks ago, we found out the driveshaft is chevy... so I definitely need to get a new front driveline.. probably should get a new rear one too.

I have some nice newer rear cv shafts that come in the newer(96up) runners. they have a cv, are extra long, and can be custom shortened with one "cut and weld" charge at any local dshaft shop. most shops get about 30-50 bucks for a cut and weld on one end. if its a balanced shaft, most shops can cut and shorten the CV end nicely without the need to rebalance it.

I sell these shafts for 100. If you would like a custom length 150 cut and welded to your lenght. lathe cut, shop work.:beer:

japerry · Dec 17, 2008

hmm that sounds promising. It has a 350+700r4+dual transfer cases, so the rear driveline is about the same length as the front driveline.

Another thing that might be a problem is the fact that the rear driveline flange has an odd bolt size. Its ~9mm, and so I have 8mm bolts in it now. I'm thinking that can cause it to vibrate because of the space.

I'll have to take a photo of the rear driveline. Although the front driveline may be bad, it doesn't explain the vibration in 2wd.

410ZukiGirl · Dec 17, 2008

japerry said:
hmm that sounds promising. It has a 350+700r4+dual transfer cases, so the rear driveline is about the same length as the front driveline.

Another thing that might be a problem is the fact that the rear driveline flange has an odd bolt size. Its ~9mm, and so I have 8mm bolts in it now. I'm thinking that can cause it to vibrate because of the space.

I'll have to take a photo of the rear driveline. Although the front driveline may be bad, it doesn't explain the vibration in 2wd.

bolts wont matter, atoyota is hubcentric, it relies on the machined ring on the flange to center it up. the bolts only hold it all together.

and the front might explain why it shakes in 2wd also. you did mention the same dude built both shafts, right?:redneck:

japerry · Dec 17, 2008

410ZukiGirl said:
bolts wont matter, atoyota is hubcentric, it relies on the machined ring on the flange to center it up. the bolts only hold it all together.

and the front might explain why it shakes in 2wd also. you did mention the same dude built both shafts, right?:redneck:

Hmm I guess one thing to try is pulling off the front driveshaft, to determine its role in this. The thing thats weird about the rear flange that meets up with the yoke on the tcase is that it doesn't have a machined ring, its hollow in the center. This is different than the flange at the rear third member, which does have the ring.
What this means is that the bolts, if they're too small, can slightly move as they're being tightened, leaving the drive line potentially off-center by a mm or 2.

The same guy did both of them... so they probably both need to be replaced. So $300 for two custom cut, balanced driveshafts?

410ZukiGirl · Dec 17, 2008

japerry said:
Hmm I guess one thing to try is pulling off the front driveshaft, to determine its role in this. The thing thats weird about the rear flange that meets up with the yoke on the tcase is that it doesn't have a machined ring, its hollow in the center. This is different than the flange at the rear third member, which does have the ring.
What this means is that the bolts, if they're too small, can slightly move as they're being tightened, leaving the drive line potentially off-center by a mm or 2.

The same guy did both of them... so they probably both need to be replaced. So $300 for two custom cut, balanced driveshafts?

no balance, the shafts are balanced now, and our local shaft guy (dave,advanced) can shorten it nicely without needing balanced, but can be if you are worried.

your flanges (at the diff and at the xfer case) should be hollow. its the shaft ends (yokes,cv) that have the raised ring on them. if the ring is missing from the yoke or cv then someone has ground it off for some reason. even if you have mismatched early and late model flanges it will still work, they all share the same size centering ring.

The shafts I have are 14mm hex heads, the early ones are 12mm hex head. so even if yours has some older style ends, it is a good upgrade to drill your flanges to accept the larger 14mm bolts.:awesomework:

japerry · Dec 17, 2008

the flanges on the tcase and 3rd member both accept 14m bolts, the driveline must be 12m heads...
Its sorta hard to see from this pic, but this is what I have going into the tcase. You'll see the driveline is hollow, and doesn't go into the flange on the tcase like it should.