What brake parts toyota ???

[billstoy]

I did not know about this stuff? I'm old school! when I wanted wider I just added 12" to my short side sleeved it with 1/4 wall pipe and ran 2 long inner axles ,centered the chunk and ran stock brakes , six shooters , cromo marfields ,trussed both sides and made a 12" longer steering cross link. this helped keep the weight moved in closer to the knuckles .no ifs stuff , no spacers! easy to get parts and only carry 1 spare long side axle, works for either side!

 

[TBItoy]

I did not know about this stuff? I'm old school! when I wanted wider I just added 12" to my short side sleeved it with 1/4 wall pipe and ran 2 long inner axles ,centered the chunk and ran stock brakes , six shooters , cromo marfields ,trussed both sides and made a 12" longer steering cross link. this helped keep the weight moved in closer to the knuckles .no ifs stuff , no spacers! easy to get parts and only carry 1 spare long side axle, works for either side!

Whatever works I guess.

For most rigs it would be pretty much impossible to run a centered front diff! (I really don't see how it would be possible unless the rig was monster truck high or had no flex, or it was a buggy with the front axle a foot in front of the motor)

or wanting a 67.5" wide toyota front axle...

 

[billstoy]

works for my buggy! I was running 3" wheel spacers and stock knuckles , it would break studs or knuckles every time out, just to much tire and stress ! So that was my fix they used to run two short sides on a 9" for a narrowed rear end, so I did the oppisite , running 1 1/2" spacers on the rear my frontend id 9"s wider! no spacers!

 

[billstoy]

Thats what cool about all these buggies , ANYTHING GOES !!!

 

[grcthird]

Stupid question. Will the tacoma rotors and ifs calipers work with stock sfa hub bodies? I have all this stuff and have to tear into my front axle soon.

Ok here is the skinny on this setup,
IFS calipers
Tacoma Rotors (These happened to be off an early Prerunner).
SFA hub bodies, turned down the outer edge to slip inside the Tacoma Rotor (I used the brake lathe at work with the drum adapter turned upside down....This took forever BTW).
Pressed the studs back into the hub body using a press. Tired the BFH and then the air hammer first, neither would push it all the way in.

Mocked it all up and the outside of the caliper barely hits on the outside of the rotor.

About this time is where that annoying sonofabitch voice kicks in and says "Keep going fawker, you've done too much to give up now, can't leave well enough alone, can you?" :
My solution was to grind the inside of the mounting tabs on the caliper until they were about .540" thick (average thickness measuring with a dial caliper and as close as I could get using a grinder). Grind, measure, grind, measure, grind, measure, repeat, I'm too impatient for this ****.

Now they are centered in the caliper. Note how much further the caliper bolts stuck thru the tabs on the knuckle and that gives you an idea how much material has to be removed.

If I had it to do over again, I'd stick with what I had. Grinding the caliper sucks, and also takes forever, would be better done on a mill. This truck doesn't see steert driving and I probably wouldn't do this to a daily driver. Turning the hub down takes forever, I'm no machinist. Also the Landcruiser rotors I had on it are just a tad bigger diameter, the pads happen to ride on that tad bit of rotor that is no longer there.

I did gain extra width since the rotor is now between the hub and wheel, not much but a little bit. I can slip the rotor off for whatever reason

Maybe this week I'll get around to doing the other side...

 

[TBItoy]

slipping the rotor off allows you to get into the knuckle/axle shafts/pull diff/ etc without having to remove the locking hub (or drive flange) and wheel bearings. You can simply unbolt the spindle from the knuckle and remove the "unit bearing" now.


Good to know for the people that don't want/need the extra width of IFS hub bodies.