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What other driver's drop t-cases...

NotMatt

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Alright, so my original plan when I got to putting a front 60 in my rig was to go chevy and swap in a D300 and make it pass. drop. Now that I have a Ford 60 that I will eventually swap in, I'm re-thinking my t-case options. I know I could flip the 300, but I'm not sure if I want to do that or if I have other options to easily swap in in place of my 231 that make any sense.

Any suggestions? I'm happy with the AX15 transmission, and would like something that's an easy swap in place of the 231 on the back.

And yes, I've considered an atlas as well. No reason not to go with one other than cost, really. I guess I could just make do with my 231 and save coin for an atlas, but with the axle swap, I will probably end up leaving the 4.10 gears in, so I'd most likely end up swapping a 4-1 kit into the 231 in the meantime, which just makes me cringe thinking about spending money on something that I'm just going to take out later.

Thoughts? Or should I just re-tube the 60 and make it pass. drop and stick with the 300 idea? :D
 
If you don't want to drop the cash on an Atlas or Stak up front, you could do a Dana 300 in a driver's drop Stak replace-a-case.
 
If you don't want to drop the cash on an Atlas or Stak up front, you could do a Dana 300 in a driver's drop Stak replace-a-case.

Damn, that looks pretty neat, although I bet I could have the 60 retubed to pass. drop for the price of their replace-a-case, and then just run a factory 300... The only thing I'm worried about is starter to driveshaft clearance, since I would probably end up clocking everything up and moving things up as much as possible when I do this, and with the high pinion it might get tight in there on full stuff on that side...

Jonathan, when you get to this I expect lots of pictures on your build thread of how much room you have, even though you're using a LP chevy axle.
 
Jonathan, when you get to this I expect lots of pictures on your build thread of how much room you have, even though you're using a LP chevy axle.

will do. with only the long side narrowed clearance is gonna be tight! Im gonna do a flat belly also so watch out!
 
I would retube the axle for passenger drop. It's actually pretty easy. The only dificult part is getting your hands on a fat enough welder to put the tubes back together.
 
do the dual 231 doubler setup. Cheap and easy for all the gearing you would need. You need to lengthen the wheelbase anyway.
 
Aww man... are you seriously gonna cut up a Ford 60 just to run a D300? You can get adapters to run a Ford case on a NV3550...

It's just a 60, it's not sacred or anything. There's lots of 'em out there. A high pinion passenger drop 60 would be the bomb diggety. :flipoff:

I've considered the 231 doubler idea, but I'm just not a big fan of the 231 chain drive setup for the front... I've seen enough stretched 231 chains.

Wheelbase is already lengthened, so that's not an issue.
 
I have built two YJs with HP Dana 60 fronts, 14bolt rears, both guys run 39.5 Swampers and 231 t-cases with no breakage yet. I would run the stock transfercase until it breaks, then put an Atlas in.
(Motoman432 where are you?)
 
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It's just a 60, it's not sacred or anything. There's lots of 'em out there. A high pinion passenger drop 60 would be the bomb diggety. :flipoff:

I've considered the 231 doubler idea, but I'm just not a big fan of the 231 chain drive setup for the front... I've seen enough stretched 231 chains.

Wheelbase is already lengthened, so that's not an issue.

if you do the 231/300 doubler you dont use the chain. thats what im doing, we will see how I like it. 120:1 cant be bad :redneck:
 
The only thing I'm worried about is starter to driveshaft clearance, since I would probably end up clocking everything up and moving things up as much as possible when I do this, and with the high pinion it might get tight in there on full stuff on that side...

Jonathan, when you get to this I expect lots of pictures on your build thread of how much room you have, even though you're using a LP chevy axle.

I am running into this issue but I am putting in a 2 piece driveline to pull the driveline over away from the starter but I am now routing the exhaust down the drivers side so the damn pipe doesn't hang-up on everything, plus the upper link would have crushed the pipe any way.
 
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I am running the 231/300 in my YJ to a Chevy 60 front with a 2-piece driveline. There is a lot of clearance to the starter, I think it would be fine with the HP.
 
I am running the 231/300 in my YJ to a Chevy 60 front with a 2-piece driveline. There is a lot of clearance to the starter, I think it would be fine with the HP.

is there anyway you could get away without a two piece?

edit...you running an auto?
 
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I'm running an AX15. I could probably run a regular driveline, but I wouldn't want to because it would hang down alot and be very vulnerable because it is so long.
 
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