Sold/Expired WTB 2 door Jeep Cherokee XJ Rear Driveshaft

ridered3 · Jan 11, 2016

Picked up a relatively cheap 2 door automatic 91 Jeep Cherokee XJ with the 4.0, AW4, and 231 transfer case (stock so still has the slip yoke end). Did not have a rear driveshaft so looking to see who may have one floating around.

Last few junkyards I've been to did not have many 2 doors and not sure what other junkyard vehicles would have something that could work.

So who has a rear driveshaft for a 2 door Cherokee XJ or can recommend another donor vehicle to check for in the junkyards???

Easiest way is to reach me via via or call at 931-three nine seven-3319.

ridered3 · Jan 11, 2016

Obligatory picture to go along with the topic.

xjmarc · Jan 11, 2016

99% sure 2 doors use the same shaft as 4 doors. Got several friends running 2 doors and all parts swap over. Rear axle will make a difference though. D35 shaft is a wee bit longer than the 8.25s.

ridered3 · Jan 11, 2016

xjmarc said:
99% sure 2 doors use the same shaft as 4 doors. Got several friends running 2 doors and all parts swap over. Rear axle will make a difference though. D35 shaft is a wee bit longer than the 8.25s.

Thanks for the info. It has the D35 in it. But we tried to put the rear driveshaft out of a buddies 4 door with same drivetrain and it's at least 4 inches too short.

xjmarc · Jan 11, 2016

That makes no sense, they both have the same wheelbase. If you had a manual and his was an auto I could see it but not both with autos. I'd say I'd measure mine since it's a 4 door but mine has a SYE and I'm running bigger axles and a custom shaft.

ridered3 · Jan 11, 2016

xjmarc said:
That makes no sense, they both have the same wheelbase. If you had a manual and his was an auto I could see it but not both with autos. I'd say I'd measure mine since it's a 4 door but mine has a SYE and I'm running bigger axles and a custom shaft.

Yeah we were both scratching our heads as well trying to understand how things were not working out. I'll see about getting official measurements tomorrow afternoon to see what the story is.

nickxj94 · Jan 12, 2016

I got a 4 door shaft in my two door... There something fishy with your set up.. :-\

The Luke · Jan 12, 2016

nickxj94 said:
I got a 4 door shaft in my two door... There something fishy with your set up.. :-\

Its at my house. I'll snap pictures/measurements tonight. I agree tho. Something isn't adding up.

The Luke · Jan 12, 2016

Measured it out. Looks like a stock 4 door shaft is 33" from where the slip ends to the u joint caps.

This 2 door, because of the lift is measuring 35". If I bolt the stock shaft into the yoke then the edge of the slip is .5" from reaching the end of the splines on the case. So I blame the lift/pinion angle.

xjmarc · Jan 12, 2016

Lift will make a difference. I've seen the slip yokes fall out on the trail due to that. Any idea what lift it is, blocks, springs, shackles etc? Almost wonder if they used S10 springs which if not done right will stretch the wheelbase some and actually center the wheel in the wheel well, which is a good thing except for the drive shaft issue. Worst case you can get longer slip yokes but if it's got more than 4" on it I'd go with a SYE. I cheaped out and went with a hack and tap and it's been fine for many years. A lot of those reuse a front shaft in the rear so you only have to carry one spare shaft. Also if you can find an 8.25, which are cheap and bolt right in, that will make that current shaft work just fine since it's a bit longer tube to yoke wise.

ridered3 · Jan 12, 2016

xjmarc said:
Lift will make a difference. I've seen the slip yokes fall out on the trail due to that. Any idea what lift it is, blocks, springs, shackles etc? Almost wonder if they used S10 springs which if not done right will stretch the wheelbase some and actually center the wheel in the wheel well, which is a good thing except for the drive shaft issue. Worst case you can get longer slip yokes but if it's got more than 4" on it I'd go with a SYE. I cheaped out and went with a hack and tap and it's been fine for many years. A lot of those reuse a front shaft in the rear so you only have to carry one spare shaft. Also if you can find an 8.25, which are cheap and bolt right in, that will make that current shaft work just fine since it's a bit longer tube to yoke wise.

Thanks for all the info. Looks like the lift is just some blocks/spacers. Will have to measure the leaf springs to see if they are S10 springs or XJ springs.

I think we are just going to cut and reweld the too long shaft that came with the Jeep just to get it more mobile than just front wheel drive.

Later I'll get a longer driveshaft after working out additional bugs.

xjmarc · Jan 12, 2016

You'd be better off finding an 8.25, they are dirt cheap, and ditching the D35 and then the shaft will be fine. I've seen them as cheap as 50 bucks but wouldn't pay more than 150 for a 29 spline, 100 for a 27 spline. Both are stronger than that D35. You will need different u bolts but if it has a block lift the ones on it may work. Tubes are bigger on the 8.25.

ridered3 · Jan 12, 2016

xjmarc said:
You'd be better off finding an 8.25, they are dirt cheap, and ditching the D35 and then the shaft will be fine. I've seen them as cheap as 50 bucks but wouldn't pay more than 150 for a 29 spline, 100 for a 27 spline. Both are stronger than that D35. You will need different u bolts but if it has a block lift the ones on it may work. Tubes are bigger on the 8.25.

Great info. The 8.25 is on the list after some changes here and there to get it up and going again. Appreciate all the assistance.

The Luke · Jan 13, 2016

xjmarc said:
You'd be better off finding an 8.25, they are dirt cheap, and ditching the D35 and then the shaft will be fine. I've seen them as cheap as 50 bucks but wouldn't pay more than 150 for a 29 spline, 100 for a 27 spline. Both are stronger than that D35. You will need different u bolts but if it has a block lift the ones on it may work. Tubes are bigger on the 8.25.

This thing will definitely not be driven on the street anytime soon. It's got more than a little ghetto fab to it. Definitely stock springs all the way around. PO loved him some blocks.

It was bought as a parts jeep. So we are swapping a few odds and ends, cleaning it up a bit and then probably selling it. Trying to keep it as low budget as possible while still doing it right. I agree the 8.25 is a good move. But for the sake of just getting this thing mobile again to be sold as a "not street worthy/trail rig/hunting truck". I think cutting down the driveshaft should work pretty well.

nickxj94 · Jan 14, 2016

Re:

I've got a 8.25 for sale, $50.00.. It is in pieces tho and has a Lincoln locker ????. Rear end is good just pulled because of a annoying humming noise. Pinon Bearings are bad. Located near Fort Smith, Arkansas

ridered3 · Jan 14, 2016

Re:

nickxj94 said:
I've got a 8.25 for sale, $50.00.. It is in pieces tho and has a Lincoln locker ????. Rear end is good just pulled because of a annoying humming noise. Pinon Bearings are bad. Located near Fort Smith, Arkansas

Thanks for the info. If I planned to keep it I'd really consider the 8.25 swap.

Just out of curiosity I looked up Fort Smith, could you be much further west in Arkansas?