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Yota front axle seals....

zukkev

Cornfuzzled yet again...
Joined
Feb 23, 2007
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14,290
Location
Da Ham, Wa
Anybody here have a problem with the axle seals leaking with Birfield Eliminators??? I just went thru this axle about 6 months ago, and both ends are leaking:mad:...Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
I just got finished with some pretty extensive front suspension/steering work, and a wide rear/ARB install, and am now down to some minor details...leaking axle seals is one of those minor details!!!:haha:
 
Sealing a toyota front is a waste of time. They always leak. Most of the time its aggravated by a bending housing too. Good luck.
 
Sealing a toyota front is a waste of time. They always leak. Most of the time its aggravated by a bending housing too. Good luck.
yup.
i run without any axle seals. after 3+ years, im just starting to get the smallest drip on the drivers side.
 
Sealing a toyota front is a waste of time. They always leak. Most of the time its aggravated by a bending housing too. Good luck.

This one's not bent (the original housing was bent, and didn't leak...);replacing the housing was part of the front axle work several months ago...I am just wondering if the Eliminators have been problematic in getting them to seal...What I'm hoping is it's just the seals...
My yota front leaked right after putting it together, and apparently I damaged the seal putting the axle thru; replaced the seal, and all is good with mine, but I'm running birfs, not Eliminators. I know Eliminators don't have the greatest rep, but they seem to be working ok for him---eventually he'll be persuaded into getting Longs!:awesomework:
 
yup.
i run without any axle seals. after 3+ years, im just starting to get the smallest drip on the drivers side.

Are you running Eliminators??? I find it hard to believe you've been running no axle seals for three years with nary a drip---is the diff dry????:fawkdancesmiley:
 
Are you running Eliminators??? I find it hard to believe you've been running no axle seals for three years with nary a drip---is the diff dry????:fawkdancesmiley:
not Eliminators, no.
stock axles before, and longfields now.
i havent had seals in there for YEARS....

when i redid the knuckle seals, i decided to leave the axle seals out. like i said, im just now getting a small leak on the drivers side.
haha, no, its not dry:fawkdancesmiley:

on my 4runner i DID put new axles seals in, but didnt redo the knuckle seals....it leaks:eeek:
 
Make sure the knuckle is centered on the ball and you'll have a lot better luck with the seals lasting. Or just get Marlins seals and be done with it already.
 
Make sure the knuckle is centered on the ball and you'll have a lot better luck with the seals lasting. Or just get Marlins seals and be done with it already.

I did center the knuckles when I rebuilt the axle; I guess the seals somehow got damaged... Marlins are an option...but won't see them in time for this weekend. So, I will be pulling it down tomorrow evening to see what's up...Thanks guys for the input! :awesomework:
 
Yeah, a diamond would be nice Pook...just not in the cards at the moment. Someday maybe, but not right now...
 
The only long time solution is some Diamond housings with the extra set off inner seals.
inner seals? or axles seals? there's a difference.:redneck:


Either you keep to flat roads or don't have oil in your front housing :flipoff:
:fawkdancesmiley:
the knuckle seals, or wipers rather do a pretty good job of keeping the oil in. my 4runner that does have "new" seals, leaks, far worse than my truck. and the 4runner is a DD. i should have redone the knuckles, bearings and all, like i did with the truck, but i was in a hurry.
 
IMO, the only possible 'fix' is to use Marlin's inner axle seals. The extra movement of the birf eliminator's u-joint end (as opposed to the birfield) will continue to destroy traditional seals. Even the Marlin seals probably won't last forever, but they're the best option out there.
 
the knuckle seals, or wipers rather do a pretty good job of keeping the oil in.

So you don't mind the premature wear on your birfields from running them in oil soup instead of the moly-fortified grease they're supposed to run in?
 
IMO, the only possible 'fix' is to use Marlin's inner axle seals. The extra movement of the birf eliminator's u-joint end (as opposed to the birfield) will continue to destroy traditional seals. Even the Marlin seals probably won't last forever, but they're the best option out there.

This is the answer I was hoping for, basically confirming my suspicion that with ujoints in there instead of CV's, the extra movement of the seal surface area as the wheel is turned and axle is rotating, is causing the seal to leak/wear prematurely... Thanks!!!:beer::beer: sounds like I need to order a set of Marlin's...
 
So you don't mind the premature wear on your birfields from running them in oil soup instead of the moly-fortified grease they're supposed to run in?
the sevice manual say either one is good.:;

so, i guess my answer is NOPE.
its a trail rig. get like 1,000 miles a year.
 
its a trail rig. get like 1,000 miles a year.

Fair enough. Strength isn't affected to any great degree since you're likely to be breaking them before the wear is an issue. I would still run seals just to save the cleanup when you do have to swap one on the trail.

the sevice manual say either one is good.:;

:eeek: Which service manual is that? Gear oil is not an adequate long-term lubricant for a CV joint.
 
Fair enough. Strength isn't affected to any great degree since you're likely to be breaking them before the wear is an issue. I would still run seals just to save the cleanup when you do have to swap one on the trail.



:eeek: Which service manual is that? Gear oil is not an adequate long-term lubricant for a CV joint.
i think it was haynes? not sure it was years ago. havent opened the one for my yota in ages.

but remember, as soon as that seal starts leaking(they all will eventually) the oil is going to wash out the grease anyway..:;

ALTHO, i agree, i would rather run a seal. and in fact attempted to install some when i put the longs in. being that my housing is bent...that wasnt happening....:mad:
 
A dana44 axle is going to movca around alot more than a CV axle will. a toyota can get away with a seal at the joint cuz it runs true.

A dana44 axle seal is all the way in the housing by the diff where the axle still runs true, not out by the spindle where the SQUARE ujoint is going to run up and down as it cycles/binds.
 

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