Suppose you were going to build a 60...

Turtle Bite · Aug 7, 2008

Would you do it the same way as before? I am bored and need a project. I am thinking its kind of silly to buy a sixty for 900 and not use the brakes, shafts, hubs, steering, gears, carrier, diff cover, or yoke. I have also been thinking about retubing a newer superduty axle as some of them come with factory 35 spline outers. I want to spend 2500 or so and be 35 spline, regeared, and some sort of locker. Or should I just wait for an already built one to float along?

1 grumpy · Aug 7, 2008

I'd wait for one..but Ive alread got one built with cromoly shaft's and arb lockers

boxboy · Aug 7, 2008

pro rocks

if I was to build them again I would just buy the prorock center and build from there.

AMJ · Aug 7, 2008

It really depends on what you are building it for.

Myself I would pretty much toss the brakes, hubs, shafts and go from there.

crash2 · Aug 7, 2008

Not a thing--love my pro-rocks. Would have been nice to go kingpin though...

CHOP SHOP · Aug 7, 2008

with spidertax 9 housings going for 399, its looking tempting to build one with 60 knuckles and birfs.

AMJ · Aug 7, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
with spidertax 9 housings going for 399, its looking tempting to build one with 60 knuckles and birfs.

If I bought one to build I would go with the spidertrax knuckles to with 55 degrees of steering :masturbanana[1]:

crash2 · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
If I bought one to build I would go with the spidertrax knuckles to with 55 degrees of steering :masturbanana[1]:

Those are pimp.........

CHOP SHOP · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
If I bought one to build I would go with the spidertrax knuckles to with 55 degrees of steering :masturbanana[1]:

they are cool, how much for both inner and outer knuckles? and what do they accept as far as spindles?

I have thought about doing a spidertrax9 with 30 spline toy outers?
I like my toyota axleshafts but worry about the 8 inch ring gear with a v8.

AMJ · Aug 7, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
they are cool, how much for both inner and outer knuckles? and what do they accept as far as spindles?

I have thought about doing a spidertrax9 with 30 spline toy outers?
I like my toyota axleshafts but worry about the 8 inch ring gear with a v8.

They are only a grand for both the inner and outer. Don't forget the brakes, lock outs, and unibearings :haha:

I would be worried about a lot more then just the 8 inch ring gear with a V8. Not to be an ass but that would be some major turd polishing to move to a spider 9 and run Toy outers.

TreeClimber · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
If I bought one to build I would go with the spidertrax knuckles to with 55 degrees of steering :masturbanana[1]:

crash said:
Those are pimp.........

Who needs stoopid steering? Seriously, if you're a full on comp buggy, maybe... but 99% of wheelers will never need that much, and probably 95% of wheelers will have an interference issue with frame rails, or some other variable long before the tire could turn 55*. There really isn't that much NEED for anything that extreme. Unless of course, you NEED to be able to brag to your buddies that I gots me a 55* turning rate.

CHOP SHOP · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
They are only a grand for both the inner and outer. Don't forget the brakes, lock outs, and unibearings :haha:

I would be worried about a lot more then just the 8 inch ring gear with a V8. Not to be an ass but that would be some major turd polishing to move to a spider 9 and run Toy outers.

guys with V8 jeeps have been running 30 spline fronts for years and now with alloy options. I think that the 30 spline birf is superior to its ujoint brother. I just thought that with diamond front housings being 900 clams, I could go spidertrax and have 300clams toward a diff plus what I could get out of my locked toy diff. I dont know, just kickin it around.

plus I am trying to keep the rig around 3000lbs.

crash2 · Aug 7, 2008

TreeClimber said:
Who needs stoopid steering? Seriously, if you're a full on comp buggy, maybe... but 99% of wheelers will never need that much, and probably 95% of wheelers will have an interference issue with frame rails, or some other variable long before the tire could turn 55*. There really isn't that much NEED for anything that extreme. Unless of course, you NEED to be able to brag to your buddies that I gots me a 55* turning rate.

There is more to it than steering radius. They are made from steel--no casting--super strong.....

Its like the guy building a ford kingpin 60--sure they are strong but the knuckles like to break--so why not go above and beyond--because isn't the point of doing a 60 to get as much strength as possable?

Turtle Bite · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
It really depends on what you are building it for.

Myself I would pretty much toss the brakes, hubs, shafts and go from there.

Not it using for competition if thats what you mean. I want it to be well built and turn the full angle, but I dont need a spider 9 or Bobby's CV's. I have full hydro and a toyota axle right now, but I want more width and turning angle.

Turtle Bite · Aug 7, 2008

Really the front toyota axle has been reliable for me. My complaint is the turning. Because the way I set it up, not because I am at the limit of the knuckles. I am already running a 60 rear so a 60 front would be a better match. To be where I want to be with the toyota axle I would need a new housing, regear, install my ARB, new ram, build a new tierod ect. With the 60 route I can build the 60 and wheel the toy frontend in the meantime and have way less downtime.

The Spidertrax knuckles are badass but really I just dont need them. They seem to be out of stock most places and all the parts are very specialized, available only from them. Dont need the strength of the 9" third either. I also dont like that the brakes are for slow speed. If they were 500 more I would go that way, but I would guess that it would cost me 1500 more in stuff I dont need.

AMJ · Aug 7, 2008

TreeClimber said:
Who needs stoopid steering? Seriously, if you're a full on comp buggy, maybe... but 99% of wheelers will never need that much, and probably 95% of wheelers will have an interference issue with frame rails, or some other variable long before the tire could turn 55*. There really isn't that much NEED for anything that extreme. Unless of course, you NEED to be able to brag to your buddies that I gots me a 55* turning rate.

If you want to go with what you NEED then why build a 60 in the first place. Most of the guys here would be fine with a D44 and stock axles. Why do you NEED to discount your rear axle and do a front dig when you could just back up a few times. It is just another tool for your rig. Basically I guess it comes down to I guess YOU don't NEED it so don't worry about :fawkdancesmiley:

CHOP SHOP said:
guys with V8 jeeps have been running 30 spline fronts for years and now with alloy options. I think that the 30 spline birf is superior to its ujoint brother. I just thought that with diamond front housings being 900 clams, I could go spidertrax and have 300clams toward a diff plus what I could get out of my locked toy diff. I dont know, just kickin it around.

plus I am trying to keep the rig around 3000lbs.

I will give you that the 30 spline birf is probably as strong if not stronger then a 44 alloy, but your basically turn the birf back into the weak link.

AMJ · Aug 7, 2008

Turtle Bite said:
Really the front toyota axle has been reliable for me. My complaint is the turning. Because the way I set it up, not because I am at the limit of the knuckles. I am already running a 60 rear so a 60 front would be a better match. To be where I want to be with the toyota axle I would need a new housing, regear, install my ARB, new ram, build a new tierod ect. With the 60 route I can build the 60 and wheel the toy frontend in the meantime and have way less downtime.

The Spidertrax knuckles are badass but really I just dont need them. They seem to be out of stock most places and all the parts are very specialized, available only from them. Dont need the strength of the 9" third either. I also dont like that the brakes are for slow speed. If they were 500 more I would go that way, but I would guess that it would cost me 1500 more in stuff I dont need.

If you want more turning the 60 is the way to go. After turning a 44 or 60 you will wondering why you didn't do it sooner. :awesomework:

Nope they aren't for everyone, but damn they are sexy :masturbanana[1]: The brakes work for more then just slow speed but I sure wouldn't run them on a daily driver. :;

Turtle Bite · Aug 7, 2008

boxboy said:
pro rocks if I was to build them again I would just buy the prorock center and build from there.

Jesus, $1100 just for the centersection is rape. Who really breaks stock 60 castings with a truss? Other than that it is just better oiling and a little extra clearence.

I am also trying to decide if the external hub dodge 60s are worth it, i would hate to start shearing the studs off like my toyota, that would be a step back to five years ago.

boxboy · Aug 7, 2008

Turtle Bite said:
Jesus, $1100 just for the centersection is rape. Who really breaks stock 60 castings with a truss? Other than that it is just better oiling and a little extra clearence.

I am also trying to decide if the external hub dodge 60s are worth it, i would hate to start shearing the studs off like my toyota, that would be a step back to five years ago.

I am just saying that is the only thing I would do different and it would just be for the ground clearance.

I started with a bear Chevy high pinion King pin D60 then added 35 spline inners & outers, bobbylong joints, Dedenbear outer "C" and Detroit locker... then as it was a bear housing all the bolts nuts bearings brakes hubs spindles trunion kits...

But I built what I wanted not what I found.

TreeClimber · Aug 7, 2008

AMJ said:
If you want to go with what you NEED then why build a 60 in the first place. Most of the guys here would be fine with a D44 and stock axles. Why do you NEED to discount your rear axle and do a front dig when you could just back up a few times. It is just another tool for your rig. Basically I guess it comes down to I guess YOU don't NEED it so don't worry about :fawkdancesmiley:

I will give you that the 30 spline birf is probably as strong if not stronger then a 44 alloy, but your basically turn the birf back into the weak link.

My point is not whether you want the axle or not, but rather that anybody with factory frame up front would limit the steering to well under 55* due to interference rubbing. Secondly, even with front digs and all that, you simply do not need to turn that sharp for any trails, as all the trails were made by rigs that don't have super tight steering, ergo, you can already make the 'tight' turns.

Now if you are a comp buggy, trying to make the cones, then that's a different story.

Regarding need -v- want, I've got two rigs, a YJ and a TJ. Both with V8s, both with TH400s, both with Atlas, etc.... and on my YJ, it's got a D44 up front with Warn inner and outer 30 splines and CTMs. And I've broke front shafts with 37s. So when I built my TJ, I opted for a 60, so I could get 35 splined shafts. Yeah, I could just replace the D44 shafts as they break, but since I had the opportunity, I went 60.