project 80

[FastEddy]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...dID=18174338&albumID=1740789&imageID=40997763


erics first gen on the 40s

 

[BrokeYota22]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...dID=18174338&albumID=1740789&imageID=40997763


erics first gen on the 40s

i emailed him some good one too.

 

[Cole1]

Ive been playing around with a protech bender and a hobart 220 welder and got my sliders fabbed up and welded on and I got my steering box on finally. I forgot to bring my camera to the shop so im going to get pics tomorrow. Hopefully ill get the front d line made tomorrow and then I can bring it back to my house.

 

[Darby1]

Good choice on 35s :awesomework: I was afraid you were gonna pick some huge axle snapin tire.

Is your truck at Casey's? He bought my samurai last night. Your truck is looking pretty darn good. Should be capable. Street driving with a new paint job seems a little :rb: but i'll introduce your fenders and cab to some trees real soon :redneck:

Nice Job Chris :cool:

 

[Cole1]

Good choice on 35s :awesomework: I was afraid you were gonna pick some huge axle snapin tire.

Is your truck at Casey's? He bought my samurai last night. Your truck is looking pretty darn good. Should be capable. Street driving with a new paint job seems a little :rb: but i'll introduce your fenders and cab to some trees real soon :redneck:

Nice Job Chris :cool:

Yeah its at Caseys since we were building the sliders and other stuff that his welder is better for than my little guy. hes trying to get the front d line and finish welding the legs/gussets on the sliders today so he can start giving the samurai a face lift.

Hopefully I can find a good deal on a locker for the front and im just going to weld the rear for now. You need to get your truck back together soon, im hoping to be all done before the end of the month.

 

[Cole1]

Ok I got some pics of the steering all finished and the sliders. I thought I got the steering good after reading up about it and looking at other build threads. It was my first time bending tube and I got the sliders on with out to much trouble and im really happy with how the sliders and the steering turned out.

 

[Orangecrush87]

sliders look mint hope to have mine on also this week

 

[dove'd85]

sliders turned out good:awesomework:

:eeek:but you sorta f'd up on the box mount.. the plates are suposed to follow the curvature of the frame rails,

 

[CHOP SHOP]

:eeek:but you sorta f'd up on the box mount.. the plates are suposed to follow the curvature of the frame rails,

He did it just fine.:awesomework:

If you turn it up like it fits the frame, then its going to make the assembly longer (from front of box to tip of pitman) as a whole and the pitman will interfere with the tierods.

If you let the box/pitman hang down then you dont have to worry about the arm/rods contacting at all.

If they contact the only fix for that is moving/redoing the whole box mount. :booo:

The only downfall to doing it the way he did, is if those HUGE springs actually do flex it might hit the spring on the draglink, which is easily fixed with a flat pitman arm.

The TG kit sucks in my opinion. I move the box foward more and make my own plates so it doesnt have the "it dont fit the frame" look.:D

James, sometimes instructions suck and should not be followed. :;

 

[CHOP SHOP]

whats up with the leaning spring pin poker? (sticking out of the passenger side ubolt plate)

Looks like the pack is not centered or the pin is too small. It should not have any angle on it at all.

 

[dove'd85]

He did it just fine.:awesomework:

If you turn it up like it fits the frame, then its going to make the assembly longer (from front of box to tip of pitman) as a whole and the pitman will interfere with the tierods.

If you let the box/pitman hang down then you dont have to worry about the arm/rods contacting at all.

If they contact the only fix for that is moving/redoing the whole box mount. :booo:

The only downfall to doing it the way he did, is if those HUGE springs actually do flex it might hit the spring on the draglink, which is easily fixed with a flat pitman arm.

The TG kit sucks in my opinion. I move the box foward more and make my own plates so it doesnt have the "it dont fit the frame" look.:D

James, sometimes instructions suck and should not be followed. :;

brad, first of all i build my own mount plates aswell:; and the way he has it setup he is going to have some interference with the pitman arm and the drag link. sure the way he has it setup will work aslong as he sets up bumpstops... flat pitman arm might be a better way to go

 

[Cole1]

Thanks for the info guys, I planned on cutting the bottom off the TG plates since it looked weird. If I have a problem with the springs hitting the link then im going to run a flat pitman arm. I had to cut the TG mount so it would fit better on the inside of the frame rail since it was hella long, I think if I do it again im just going to make my own that fits better. Im also going to run some bump stops I just havent got around to it yet. Ive been looking at other builds to see what I liked and what was working good for the bump stop mount.

Brad the pin on the pass. side leaf it bent right after it comes out of the leaf pack but its good through them so i was going to bend it back to make it look better.

 

[dove'd85]

look at the my build thread. i made my bump stops out of 2x3 with 1/4 in plate:cool:

 

[Cole1]

look at the my build thread. i made my bump stops out of 2x3 with 1/4 in plate:cool:

Yeah I was thinking of doing the same thing, it looks simple and works. Ive seen some thou were the bump stop is on the top, does it matter if the bump is on the axle side or the frame side? I also need to cut off my stock shock mounts and bend some shock hoops for this thing.

 

[dove'd85]

Yeah I was thinking of doing the same thing, it looks simple and works. Ive seen some thou were the bump stop is on the top, does it matter if the bump is on the axle side or the frame side? I also need to cut off my stock shock mounts and bend some shock hoops for this thing.

no it doesn't matter if the rubber bumper is on the bottom or the top. if you want to save some cash go to the junk yard and get some shock hoops off the front of an F series ford:awesomework:

 

[Cole1]

Well I bought a 18' stick of 2" 120 wall and a 18' stick of 1.5" 120 wall and I havent used any of the 1.5" so i was just going to try and make my own. I used the 2" for the sliders and I used scrape 1.5" that i found laying around the shop for the legs since the 2" was to big to tuck up any higher. I had a set of the f350 shock mounts and I looked all over my garage and have no idea were they ran off to.

I only have a couple more things to do to finish it up. Im hoping for a little shake down run at the end of the month.

 

[dove'd85]

Well I bought a 18' stick of 2" 120 wall and a 18' stick of 1.5" 120 wall and I havent used any of the 1.5" so i was just going to try and make my own. I used the 2" for the sliders and I used scrape 1.5" that i found laying around the shop for the legs since the 2" was to big to tuck up any higher. I had a set of the f350 shock mounts and I looked all over my garage and have no idea were they ran off to.

I only have a couple more things to do to finish it up. Im hoping for a little shake down run at the end of the month.

right on let me no when and were:awesomework:

 

[bigd9247]

you should just cut the leaf spring center pin off flush with the u-bolt plate. it doesn't need to be that long, they just come hella long and then you saw them off. also, i have a couple stock toyota rubber bump stops (rear ones) you can have if you need some.

 

[Cole1]

you should just cut the leaf spring center pin off flush with the u-bolt plate. it doesn't need to be that long, they just come hella long and then you saw them off. also, i have a couple stock toyota rubber bump stops (rear ones) you can have if you need some.

Let me know were there at or the next time your goign to be home and ill swing by and grab them.

 

[Cole1]

So Ive been collecting more parts and finally had the chance to get some work done. i got a set of half doors and a new bed that isnt rusted out. I picked up a set of beadlocks and Iroks. I also got longs and im getting a knuckle rebuild on wednesday so I can get that all put together. I still need to get a locker for the front, make my front Dline, put on my front brake lines and weld on my front axle truss and diff armour and I should be all done. Here is a couple pics i snapped, I ran out of cut off wheels so i need to run to the store and pick some up so I can finish bobbing the bed today.

 

[dove'd85]

good look:cool: pic a color please:;

 

[Cole1]

Yeah I need to pick a color for it, it reminds me of rainbow sherbert:haha: The old lady is picking the color since she was pissed when I told her I bought it and she saw it was three diffrent colors.

 

[Cole1]

Well I met up with Odie today and picked up a knuckle rebuild kit and a lock rite for a v6 carrier. I F'ed up thou and should have got 5.29 gears when I met Odie since I really dont want to tear the front apart again. Anyways...I started tearing everything apart when I got home and took the knuckle, spindle, and hub to the parts washer to get them looking good again. I made a call and hopefully ill be getting a v6 diff this weekend so I can get the lockrite into. Then im onto the longs and the front end will be buttoned up. Hopefully next week I can finally get my front D line made and replace the rear brakes and pull the third out to be welded.

 

[Cole1]

Not much of an update but I ran out to chop shops place and he set up my gears and lockers. I finally got my wheel bearings too so tonight im going to get the thirds back in the truck and try and finish the knuckle rebuild so I can be finished with the front.

I also picked up a complete harness so im gonna pull mine out tonight or tomorrow and put the new one in and start hooking everything up.

Ill get some pics tonight hopefully the axles will be finished and then all i need to do is the wireing and im ready to wheel.:cool:

 

[Cole1]

Little update......

I finished rebuilding the front axle and put in my v6 third with a lock rite and 5.29's and my Bobby heat treated axles, I got the rear 4 cyl third with 5.29's welded and put back in and I got the rear D line put back on. I filled the diffs and the Tcases and found out I didnt get enough sealer on the cases were they bolt to the tranny and it leaked like a MoFo so I need to pull it back apart and clean and seal that up again.

Im getting the front D line made today so ill have 4wd.

I finished bobbing the bed but it looks like $hit since for some reason I cant cut very straight of lines so im going to cut out a section of the donor bed and rivit the bed together that way. After I got the bed somewhat done I decided to paint it today since it was nice out. The old lady picked out this blue which im diggging the truck all one color(besides the hood since I took a break from painting to eat and watch the **** tube for about an hour and it started snowing) Luckley the paint dried before it started to rain so I dont have to sand and repaint it.

here is a couple pics....

Put the old lady to work and had here take the hubs off:awesomework:

Some random pics she took

All painted

Running gear shots

 

[Cole1]

So tonight I got my new coil and igniter so I put that on with hopes that my truck will finally start......

It just cranked over but would not start so I decided to check the timing chain since it was the first time ive done headgasket and I couldnt remember if I lined up the timing chain right. So i took off the valve cover to find this....

Anyone see whats wrong?:corn:

Pretty sure I didnt have the timing right and the pistons smacked the valves.:puke:

Luckely when I bought the truck I got another 20R so me and Fasteddy tore it apart to check it out.

Everything looked pretty good except there was a little bit of rust on the 2nd cylander at the top of the block. Im going to take the block to the machine shop and see what he can do for me. Now I need to track down a rebuild kit and pistons for it.:booo:

 

[dove'd85]

holly **** dude:eeek::puke: pm trainwreckinseattle if you want a motor rebuilt

 

[Cole1]

holly **** dude:eeek::puke: pm trainwreckinseattle if you want a motor rebuilt

Yeah your telling me it definantly bring the SUCK. I guess motors arent my thing to work on. I just PM'd trainwreckinseattle so Im just waiting for him to get back to me and I have a buddy that already said he would rebuild it for free if I get the kit and the machine work done.

 

[dove'd85]

Yeah your telling me it definantly bring the SUCK. I guess motors arent my thing to work on. I just PM'd trainwreckinseattle so Im just waiting for him to get back to me and I have a buddy that already said he would rebuild it for free if I get the kit and the machine work done.

damn i guess not:; has your buddy that is offering to assemble your motor worked on motors before? imo there is a wrong way.half ass way and right way to do things, not dog'n on your friend im just sayin the last thing you want is to get a fresh motor that lasts 5k then starts knocking and chalkin smoke like a CTD

patrick knows toyota 4cyl's like no one else does:awesomework:

 

[Cole1]

Yeah my buddys built a bunch of motors but there all sb350's that he used for drag racing and street use. Hejust got done building a 383 for a guy he works with and before that he had a sb 468 in his s10. he had to bore it out, sleeve it then bore it out again and the thing ripped in the s10 then he just swapped it over into a cherry 86' c10.