Let's talk diesels.

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TreeClimber

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So.. I'm interested in opinions on late model (or new) diesel truck reliability.

Backstory; bought a new 2005 Ford diesel 12 years ago. Since then I've replaced the turbo, the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM), the Snap to Connect high pressure oil fitting, and the High Pressure Oil Sensor.

As most of you know, this truck is the hyper-unreliable Ford 6.0 liter. And they are known for Oil Cooler failures, EGR Cooler failures, Head Gasket failures (especially if you run a 'chip'), as well as Snap to Connect failures, High Pressure Oil Rail 'Dummy Plug" failures, FICM failures and bad Turbo.

Since my truck now has 117K on the odometer, I'm due to spend some big money on parts, or, even bigger money on labor, if I choose to keep driving it.

Or, I can trade it for something different. And that's the dilemma I'm contemplating.

Buy New, Buy Newer, or Fix It.

And I'd like your opinion on what's currently out there in the market, specifically, in a newer truck. Yes. I know some of you only like the 12 valve Dodges. But for the sake of arguments, let's just talk reliability of the newer style rigs out there.

And I'm already aware of the Ford 6.0s, and the immediate replacement Ford 6..4 liter.

Would love to know more about Dodges, Chevy (or GM), and the Nissan ***an. And perhaps the new Ford (is it a 6.7?)

Thanks.
Tony
 
And I'm also interested if anyone has opinions on pre-DEF vehicles -v- DEF, and any other pertinent aspects of current diesels.

(And for what it's worth, might even go Gasoline next time)
 
Bought my 03 dirtyturd in 08. I've replaced the head gaskets (my fault for running too hot a tune). Rear diff (carrier, not gears) G80 went out on me. Fuel pressure regulator. Injectors (under recall = zero dollars out of my pocket).

The rest has been electrical gremlins. (power windows, weird transmission stuff on a trip to Virginia and back that didn't sideline the truck but made it act funny, seat heater turns on randomly, have to shift to 3rd to use tow haul button or OD cancel) But never has the truck left me stranded.

I've limped the transmission more times than I can count, kept up on maintenance of the truck fluids, filters, belts and hoses, etc.

It's gotten me cross country twice with zero issues, several trips to the hammers, etc.

Mods have been a PPE tuner, sinister diesel CAT fuel filter upgrade, and rear locker.

It has also held its value (locally) very well.

I ****ing love my truck.
 
on the 2007.5 TO 2012 dodges with EGR , they will clog the egr system if driven to the mall and back all the time.they need to be used,they need to get warm for the particulate filters to burn off. 2013 and newer have egr and piss fluid.(DEF).the DEF helps with the egr issues, they can all be deleted/tuned to run better and cleaner than stock with lots more power.and not lose reliability..the dodges will need ball joints between 60 and 100k depending how its used.and probably a unit bearing or three..lol.the 68rfe trans in the dodges is okay,OD is the weak link along with leaky valvebodys causing them to lose pressure and kill themselves,of course you can always get a manual trans dodge and not worry.2013 and newer in the ram 3500 you can get the aisin trans,a very heavy duty unit,people seem to have great luck with them at stock to +100hp levels. no aftermarket tuning is available for the aisin trans yet..
i dont know too much about the fords.i do know the 6.7 makes awesome power when tuned/deleted. im a dodge guy and i really like the 6.7 fords,i only have 1 friend with a 6.7 ford,and he is on top of maintaining it and had to replace the egr cooler last week. it has less than 100k.the trans behind the 6.7 is a good solid unit,as is the rest of the truck IMHO.
 
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... everyone and their new diesels and I am looking at going back to a 70's 3/4 ton w/ a big block and 4spd...

:redneck:
 
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I am following this thread...BUT I can't argue with my logic on keeping my 1999 Suburban w/454 and freshly rebuilt tranny. Paid $3500 for it 4 or 5 years ago and have put minimal money into it.

I just can't accept a truck payment yet. Though I could afford it.
 
I did the 2003 excursion with the 6.0l. I pulled the body and went through the whole thing based on a list I found on line that had everything that I should do on it, right down to the best length of wiper blades. All I had left was the two axles, frame and a short block. It ran great before I tore it apart and it is still running great at 135k. Not the most powerful but it gets the family and friends out while towing. I just can't justify what a truck costs now(new or used).

My vote would be to run what you have...But I would love to have a nice new dually!!!
 
My cousin just went through the same thing with his POS 6.0, he spent like $6k on it in like 9 months replacing the FICM and turbo, he decided he better dump it before he had to replace anything else.

My parents have a '15 F350 dually. The 6.7 is a nice motor, quiet and has gobs of power, it pulls their 22k lbs toyhauler like it is nothing. The only complaint my dad has is the mileage, it gets like 15mpg empty, 8.5mpg towing their 5th wheel. Is it nice enough to justify the $60k+ price tag? Ehh. It just depends on your needs. If you are full time RVing and towing constantly, it probably is worth it, if not, I would find say find an older, more reliable rig.

I would say ditch the 6.0 junker and find a 7.3.
 
For the Dodge gurus - been told to stick with a 5.9, because the 6.7 is not as reliable or have the longevity. And truth to this?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 
The Ford 6.7's are great engines first couple years had some teething problems but that's the same as anything else. They've got enough jam from the factory that you don't really need to **** around with a tuner/deletes all the nonsense that goes with it. Chassis/body wise they're the nicest I've driven out of any of the big 3's recent offerings. They are a spendy truck to get into though.
 
Dodges are pos's. Cummins are great, everything else dodge should might as well be a recall. They are the most expensive trucks to keep on the road. Now that said.. they are pretty comfortable. I love my 6.7 it has so much more power than my 5.9 it's rediculous.
 
For the Dodge gurus - been told to stick with a 5.9, because the 6.7 is not as reliable or have the longevity. And truth to this?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk


I know guys just as many guys with high mileage 6.7's that haven't missed a beat.. All Cummins engine are pretty reliable. I think thats a null argument wihich is better honestly.
 
It's unreal what new or close to new diesel pickups cost. I'm the 12 valve - Manual trans - hop in and go type but I'll try to be unbias with this one.

I wouldn't buy a Dodge newer than 06 or early 07 because I like the 5.9 but that's personal preference here. If you really twisted my arm on a newer pickup it would be the newer dodge (cause I like dodge) with a manual trans (I think they're the only ones still offering this option? leadfoot would know).

I've heard decent things about the dodge 6.7 engine as well as the newer ford and chevy pickups but it's back to the whole "once you delete everything..." that i think this is ridiculous every time I hear it.

So think about it upwards of 50 to 70k new OR you drop 30k+ on a newer used pickup... Now you either wait out the warranty to finally add the power and HOPEFULLY reliability your 15k older pickup gave you. Meanwhile your making payments.... maintenance.... and checking out all the cool stuff you'll be able to do with that delete kit. Although in your case, you started with a **** sandwich and kept adding toppings to it hoping it would taste better so this analogy doesn't work to well.

Every pickup has it's troubled years and a used pickup is a USED pickup doesn't matter what make it is. We don't own automatics, I'd never own 99-02 dodge 24 valve if you gave it to me and I hope the ford gods show mercy on the poor bastards who bought the used 6.0 with super low miles. Like everything out there research is huge... If it was me I'd be on the hunt for an 06 - 6 speed - dodge but that's just me.

Instead of all that we just bought our second and hopefully last 97 1 owner Manual trans 12 valve w/186k for 10k and moved on to the next thing. Just to say it, our 98 12 valve just turned over 300k.
 
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I needed 4 doors and something that would easily haul the camper/trailer combo...and to someday haul an enclosed gooseneck. I like everything about my 2016 F350 CC LB dually...except the monthly payment & the need for DEF.

I was originally looking at getting a cab & chassis (4500/5500/F450/F550) but ended up shopping F350/3500 trucks when I discovered the Cab & Chassis trucks are detuned...300hp/660tq vs 440hp/860hp on the Fords. My insurance required a commercial policy on the 5500/F550, but would allow a 4500/F450 on my personal policy.


More specs on the 6.7 Fords over the years...looks like they made some improvements for the 2015 & up.

http://www.powerstrokehub.com/6.7-power-stroke.html

When I was shopping trucks last year, Dodge also still offered a manual, but it was detuned a tad to *I believe* keep the clutch from slipping.

My dad just bought a 99 F350 CC LB manual with a tuned 7.3...he's having fun dragging his 5th wheel trailer all over the state.

Roger also has a tuned 7.3 F250 he uses and seems really happy...2000 and up on the 7.3 had bigger injectors.
 
My insurance required a commercial policy on the 5500/F550, but would allow a 4500/F450 on my personal policy.

Just an FYI, State Farm will insure a 550 under a personal policy as long as the truck has a normal type bed (not flat bed or utility box) and it isn't being used for any business related stuff, that's who covers my 550. I believe All State is another one that will cover them as well.
 
Can you extrapolate? What's so good about 2006? What's so poor about 2011?

2007 is the first year of the DPF tony and 2011 was the first year of Def and we had a **** tons of issues with the 2011's. Anything 12 and up is good.

2006 was the first year for a cat but there are soo few issues with that year and a really good dependable power house.

As for the dodge 6.7 the only repetitive issue is warping exhaust manifolds and a couple turbos but that motor gets my thumbs up.
 
I have a 2011 f350 with the 6.7, bought it new, no issues. My work truck is a 2015 f550 with 6.7 and I've put 60,000 miles it and no issues
 
I too am curious about what is is wrong with the Ford 6.7s.

Seems like the only issues I have heard of are from people tuning them and they end up ****in something up.
 
2006 dodge 5.9 with 210,000 on it right now. I bought it in 2010 with 50k on it. I put a smarty sir programmer when I got it. I beat on it everyday. It will see 100 mph everyday, no joke. I drive fast. I put a single disc converter in it at 85k. Had the trans rebuilt at 185k and put a triple disc converter at that time. The only other thing that has gone out was a water pump. This is my 3 diesel truck. First I had a 97 12v, sold it with 264k. Then 01 Dmax 120k.
 
I've had fords, chevys and dodges and worked on all of them. I'll never own another chevy, crap ifs front end 4x4 elcamino. Always been a Ford guy but have had a 07 5.9 mega cab for three years now. Since I work on all my own stuff it's only cummins for me now. Sooooo much easier to work on then the v8's. They all have their issues and all the new ones will get better with deletes. My next truck will be a deleted 6.7 dodge of some sort. The 6.7 has a much better turbo and trans then the 5.9 (auto). It's a great motor once deleted and the cab doesn't need to come off to work on the motor.
 
I've had fords, chevys and dodges and worked on all of them. I'll never own another chevy, crap ifs front end 4x4 elcamino. Always been a Ford guy but have had a 07 5.9 mega cab for three years now. Since I work on all my own stuff it's only cummins for me now. Sooooo much easier to work on then the v8's. They all have their issues and all the new ones will get better with deletes. My next truck will be a deleted 6.7 dodge of some sort. The 6.7 has a much better turbo and trans then the 5.9 (auto). It's a great motor once deleted and the cab doesn't need to come off to work on the motor.

Don't Dodges have bad steering or week ball joints also or some other **** also?
 
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