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Where is my vacuum going?!

The ignition control module translates the distributor's pulses and alters the timing. You must use a magnetic pickup-type distributor with this system, and the advance must be locked down with the proper phasing. The instructions explain this in great detail, but if you ask, Turbo City can make the necessary adjustments to your distributor.

Does you distributor have a magnetic pickup? You only lock down the vacuum/mechanical advance if you do this magnetic pickup mod to the distributor.
 
Yeah, the factory '77 distributor is a mag pickup style exactly like what is pictured...
 
Is the tbi system very touchy to vacuum? It just ocurred to me (and I called my trans guru brother to double check) that the issue isn't there in reverse... The modulator doesn't leak vacuum but it does use it in forward gears only. Unplug the modulator and give it a go. If it clears up find where the leak is in that line, if not unplug the booster.

I agree the system has issues but there isn't a physical link from the 'puter to the trans or brakes, only vacuum. Unless that anti stall system is reading off of the MAPP sensor and forcing the IAC valve fully open when the vacuum reading drops a bit...
 
Does the distributor plug into the TBI harness? So it sounds like you do have timing control then.

It would have to have some kind of magnetic pickup---otherwise you would have no reference to the ecm for injector pulse.
 
Is the tbi system very touchy to vacuum? It just ocurred to me (and I called my trans guru brother to double check) that the issue isn't there in reverse... The modulator doesn't leak vacuum but it does use it in forward gears only. Unplug the modulator and give it a go. If it clears up find where the leak is in that line, if not unplug the booster.

I agree the system has issues but there isn't a physical link from the 'puter to the trans or brakes, only vacuum. Unless that anti stall system is reading off of the MAPP sensor and forcing the IAC valve fully open when the vacuum reading drops a bit...

You could be right about the modulator line as we just don't know for sure at this point what's going on. The system works as a whole so yes MAP input will play a roll in the stall saver. More likely the "lug" of the engine when shifted into gear drops the RPM just enough to trigger the stall saver assuming it's a stall saver issue at all.
Really all of this stuff is just guess work as we only know so much about the rig and what it's doing. It's hard to troubleshoot someones rig over the web but given enough information we may be able to figure it out.
 
It would have to have some kind of magnetic pickup---otherwise you would have no reference to the ecm for injector pulse.

Yes it does need a RPM input but not necessarily a timing control. Many of these aftermarket systems are fuel only but they're intended to be used with the original timing system intact. You could run a fuel only with a points dist or MSD or ....
 
Guess I should have just asked if it has one of these?
 

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Yes, only one ECM. The article explains that used two cases on that install for better protection from the elements...
 
Yes it does need a RPM input but not necessarily a timing control. Many of these aftermarket systems are fuel only but they're intended to be used with the original timing system intact. You could run a fuel only with a points dist or MSD or ....

True--but if its a stock prom--you would have 42 stored and no timing advance...
 
It did come with a knock sensor, and to it's credit, it doesn't ping under any conditions from 600ft to over 13,000ft...
 
Just read thru the thread forwarded to me from Rick.
The system is identical to what we have posted on the binderplanet.

With the use of the 8 pin and the DS distr it has full timing control.

If everything is just as described and the idle still jumps with the IAC driven closed and unplugged, then the only thing that can be changing is the timing based on a change in load/vacuum.

To start with i would recommend going to the FAQ's on the binderplanet. First hit the wiring FAQ and grab sheet 1.
It will list the Key on and engine running voltage checks. Do both.
Next hit the parts required FAQ and grab the table for the MAP sensor and make sure it is within specs.

I have not seen a location listed for the vehicle so i don't know the alt. But check the local weather channel.

I would also plug the vacuum modulator and remove the map and shake it with the nipple down to see if any liquid is in it. Tranny fluid from a bad modulator or fuel from the sensor mounted too low.
The map needs to be mounted above the center rear TBI vacuum port where it's connected.
The nipple should be pointed down if possible.

When all is checked, then I would go to the initial setup procedures and follow them.

If you have a laptop and the data cable, then you should also follow the how to tune FAQ for what data to log and save.

But you need some real trouble shooting to seperate fact from fiction.

The position of the transfer case lever or rev or drive have no affect on the system.
 
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This would be a great option but would require adding in wires to the harness and starting over with a different chip. May end up doing that in the end anyways.
If the engine is modded in any way don't try to use a stock Ford setup. It MIGHT work but probably not well and is nearly impossible to custom tune the chip worth a damn.

Yup, learned that thru the school of hard knocks on a buddy's 89 F150 many yrs ago, 1995ish IIRC ...:mad:
 
Just read thru the thread forwarded to me from Rick.
The system is identical to what we have posted on the binderplanet.

With the use of the 8 pin and the DS distr it has full timing control.

If everything is just as described and the idle still jumps with the IAC driven closed and unplugged, then the only thing that can be changing is the timing based on a change in load/vacuum.

To start with i would recommend going to the FAQ's on the binderplanet. First hit the wiring FAQ and grab sheet 1.
It will list the Key on and engine running voltage checks. Do both.
Next hit the parts required FAQ and grab the table for the MAP sensor and make sure it is within specs.

I have not seen a location listed for the vehicle so i don't know the alt. But check the local weather channel.

I would also plug the vacuum modulator and remove the map and shake it with the nipple down to see if any liquid is in it. Tranny fluid from a bad modulator or fuel from the sensor mounted too low.
The map needs to be mounted above the center rear TBI vacuum port where it's connected.
The nipple should be pointed down if possible.

When all is checked, then I would go to the initial setup procedures and follow them.

If you have a laptop and the data cable, then you should also follow the how to tune FAQ for what data to log and save.

But you need some real trouble shooting to seperate fact from fiction.

The position of the transfer case lever or rev or drive have no affect on the system.

I'll check that FAQ out and go from there - many thanks! For reference, the MAP does not have any liquid in it and it is indeed mounted above the TBI unit. I am thinking the reason it happens worse in Low-Range is because it loads the motor quicker... And yes, with the IAC closed and unplugged the condition remains, so we appear to be on the right track with a vacuum issue... I'll block off the modulator line first and report back. With any luck, that'll be the culprit?! :corn:
 
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