anti wrap bar placement ?

OK so brack ground 85 4runner truggy locked front and rear and just done duals w/ 2.28 f & 4.7 rear 5.29s in axles ,and still leafs all around . Before I done the case swap I was axle wrapping bad in the rear now I know it will be worse with with the duals so I'm building an antiwrap bar ( some call it traction bar, pan hard bar, yada yada yada call it what you want stops axle wrap) my real question is there a place that's best to place it on the rear axle. Closest to center, or just were ever itll fit . Cause I'm doing a Y bar johnny joint front and 2 bushings on the bracket for the axle I just wanted some input

Re: Re: anti wrap bar placement ?

You want it as close to the axle center line to prohibit bind during articulation.

Also, the longer the bar, the more efficient.

I just put the RuffStuff kit on my cherokee. Cant believe I went 3years without it.

My lower bar is mounted a lil lower than some would like, but I like how it protects my driveshaft and ramps me over rocks.

I'm using a 1.75 x .250 bar as my lower a hiem on the shackle end.

Re: Re: anti wrap bar placement ?

Here's my twist n slip. Added breaching to the horseshoe and tada..

Re: Re: anti wrap bar placement ?

tonybolton said:

You want it as close to the axle center line to prohibit bind during articulation.

By this you mean as close to the center of axle ( to third) is that what u mean by center line left to right not top to bottom

Any way I took 2 pics of tabs in 2 different spots call em top and bottom which would be better and my lower will be 1.5 x.250 for d shafrt protection

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Pic #2.

And plate the housing before you weld the brackets on.

I built a "slip & twist" bar for my buddy's truck and it started ripping the housing apart at the top of the welds.

When we replaced the housing (bent badly) we plated it with 3/16" before welding the brackets on.

I put mine where it would fit the easiest. It's closer to the leaf spring than the pumpkin and I haven't noticed any binding yet. Two bushings on the axle and a 7/8's heim and shackle on the other end.

I've had really good luck going with the pass side near the spring and only as long as the front of the leaf spring or a little longer! The angle isn't as big of a concern as lining up the bolts at the axle 90* to the ground on level ground! I use 3/4 heims and .250 wall Dom threaded and a simple y design with a shackle that is half the length of the spring shackle. Hope that helps.

Well I talked to Mo (Rokcrler) and after see some me pics I'm gonna do a slip and twist a lot easier than my previous plan and nick by chance u got a pic of how u plated it or just weld one side heat and form to housing and maybe drill some holes for rosette welds, but definitely doing slip'and twist only question now is would u use a hiem or johnny joint got one of each and still gonna use bushings on the axle

krackem said:

Well I talked to Mo (Rokcrler) and after see some me pics I'm gonna do a slip and twist a lot easier than my previous plan and nick by chance u got a pic of how u plated it or just weld one side heat and form to housing and maybe drill some holes for rosette welds, but definitely doing slip'and twist only question now is would u use a hiem or johnny joint got one of each and still gonna use bushings on the axle

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I used bushings at the axle and a 3/4x3/4 heim at the slip bar. Used 1.5"x.25" wall for the inner slip bar, 1.75x.120 for the upper bar, and 1.75x.375 for the lower "bash bar".

Didn't take any pics, on the plate I just cut out a piece and cut some holes in it for rosette welds, hammer fit the top & bottom edge to the housing a bit.

al1tonyota said:

I've had really good luck going with the pass side near the spring and only as long as the front of the leaf spring or a little longer! The angle isn't as big of a concern as lining up the bolts at the axle 90* to the ground on level ground! I use 3/4 heims and .250 wall Dom threaded and a simple y design with a shackle that is half the length of the spring shackle. Hope that helps.

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I'd like to see a pic if ya got one the whole line bolts up at axle 90* to ground lost me don't under stand that any particular reason I like to no as I'm still learning and knowledge is power and saves time and money

krackem said:

I'd like to see a pic if ya got one the whole line bolts up at axle 90* to ground lost me don't under stand that any particular reason I like to no as I'm still learning and knowledge is power and saves time and money

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I don't think he meant 90 degress to the ground, he meant level with the ground.

I've built a ton of them like Mo's with very good results.

TBItoy said:

I don't think he meant 90 degress to the ground, he meant level with the ground.

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OK that makes sense lol and thanks for the plate tip to bro if any of y'all ever need an extra set of hands Holler as I feel I owe y'all a favor for all the tech y'all provide me and time, cussin, and redoing **** over y'all also prevent and save plus u only learn from those better than you and I'm serious on the offer of helping

bluetoy said:

I've built a ton of them like Mo's with very good results.

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I copied my design from Toyota Nick

x2 bluetoys design works good, just like the pics of Mo's

From nick posting in this thread

machen4x4 said:

x2 bluetoys design works good, just like the pics of Mo's

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How's your rig coming Jamie

cant work on it because of my back. starting aggressive therapy next week for 3 days a week.
bamatoy BJ said he would finish up the welding for me. so here in a few weeks we will get on it.
be ready for next year.

krackem said:

From nick posting in this thread

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Toyota Nick = bluetoy

I mean 90* from the ground like the two bolt holes in the axle bracket where the upper and lower bar connect to the axle! This is a lot like an anti squat adjustment! I don't have any pics on my phone €>:___* that's the best I can do to explain?