Getting stickies...now what wheels

wizzo said:

I've got kmc's and they are tough. But if i did it again I'd go with trail rady hd's

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KMCs are top of list right now. The ones on here (RMC) the guy got from China are awfully appealing price wise though.

Forged Trail Ready is the best wheel out there. Plus the owner is awesome and will take care of you if you happen to destroy one. I learned this from personal experience.

Cole said:

Forged Trail Ready is the best wheel out there. Plus the owner is awesome and will take care of you if you happen to destroy one. I learned this from personal experience.

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^Trail Ready is the best

My TR creeper locks have never burped air on the inner bead and I've ran em too low of air a few times (laziness)....damn good wheel.

Have Creeper Locks on my buggy and I've been happy with them. Run them with 2psi in the 37" Treps and no issues with the tire burping air or losing the inner bead.

Either of you with tr creepers......ever seen anyone bend or crack 1? Been reading a lot of threads on net and I'm about getting paranoid to run aluminum. Not sure exactly why....mostly cause of breaking 1 on the trail you can't bend back like a steel rim. Never happened to me before but I've seen it. Now that I typed it though....it will happen next time I wheel. :****:

Unless you are wide open, bouncing off rocks, don't think you have a problem with alum wheel, those things are super thick.

Raceline from this weekend at AOP

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I'm not a fan of Racelines, seen too many of em bend and now break ^^^.

Never seen anyone have a problem with TR creepers. I've beat the **** out of mine up against rocks and they have done fine. They are thick as hell like Chad mentioned.

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TacomaJD said:

I'm not a fan of Racelines, seen too many of em bend and now break ^^^.

Never seen anyone have a problem with TR creepers. I've beat the **** out of mine up against rocks and they have done fine. They are thick as hell like Chad mentioned.

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There's a difference in TR (Trail Ready) and TG (Trail Gear)

And yes, the TG Creeper locks are heavy and thick as hell, like 40lb each!

JD, you keep your **** in 1st gear you aren't going to hurt a wheel. It don't matter what you put on a bouncer eventually it will fail. Some may before others. You give JD a 14 bolt front that TC can pop on demand, it will last him forever.

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TacomaJD said:

I'm not a fan of Racelines, seen too many of em bend and now break ^^^.

Never seen anyone have a problem with TR creepers. I've beat the **** out of mine up against rocks and they have done fine. They are thick as hell like Chad mentioned.

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I saw a guy go through 4 Creepers at the last ultra 4 race, you can't compare a trail gear wheel to a trail ready wheel. just saying

Maybe I will just stay with steel wheels after seeing that pic. Although....I never get out of 1st gear either

Steel wheels with Coleworx Rock Rings. If you can get them anymore. They still build rigs?

Most of you guys will never break an alum wheel. I bent the **** out of a raceline inner by hitting a basketball sized rock at about 40. If this stuff happens to you, then maybe look elsewhere. if you plan on driving like that, get Trail Ready forged. Spend the money. If you crawl, get whatever is cheap, you'll not have a problem. Likely Ever. Trail Gear is cast chinese stuff that is just fine for what is in the name. Creeper. If you're crawling around in 1st gear, get chinese ****, its way less money and not forged. If you want the strongest wheel, go to Larry Trim.

Cole said:

Raceline from this weekend at AOP

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This was one of their cast wheels and not forged right?

Cole said:

Raceline from this weekend at AOP

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Thats what Racelines do. They shatter.

Trail Ready or Walkers if you ask me. I have torn the hoops on both. Never had one "shatter".

We have close to the same set up, I run Racelines, but I also don't have 700 hp , a money tree and I know when to let off the gas.. I'm guessing by the amount of bouncers that have them there is a slight chance they are a strong wheel.. Not mention every pound adds up, Not the smartest person in the world but would almost bet anything with 43's with H1's that weigh about 200 pounds on each corner are going to be breaking many more parts other than wheels than someone with an aluminum wheel with a 40"... I have three different sets of wheels that I have run, backspacing one set is 2.5, then 3" and i'm thinking the monsters are 3.5" b/s. God what a difference it makes as far as turning, hell just drivin in general is MUCH better.. And I'm guessing probably better for your axles , less strain.. Anything can be broken.. But there sure are a lot of Racelines on some really badass rigs where the guys apparently go and try to break every part on the rig when they drive and they hold up. It's kinda like telling someone that wants an Atlas "you know you can break in Atlas right?" Sure you can break in Atlas, when you fall from the sky about 11 feet with 500 hp + and you never once let off the gas. Question is do you plan on doing that silly ****? Me either!! I don't see 99% of us shattering an aluminum wheel being a problem. Then again what do I know... I can tell you the backspacing makes a huge difference. I personally would keep it as light as possible.

fltruckwash said:

This was one of their cast wheels and not forged right?

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Correct, the Forged wheels like Bobby tanner, Jake Burkey and TC run are legit the others are junk, from what I have seen anyway.

Cole said:

Correct, the Forged wheels like Bobby tanner, Jake Burkey and TC run are legit the others are junk, from what I have seen anyway.

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Thanks. Just wanted to clear that up. I just shattered my wallet buying a set of their forged double bead locks...lol I started to get a little worried there for a minute after I saw that over the weekend...