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Getting stickies...now what wheels

kushKrawlin said:
We have close to the same set up, I run Racelines, but I also don't have 700 hp , a money tree and I know when to let off the gas.. I'm guessing by the amount of bouncers that have them there is a slight chance they are a strong wheel.. Not mention every pound adds up, Not the smartest person in the world but would almost bet anything with 43's with H1's that weigh about 200 pounds on each corner are going to be breaking many more parts other than wheels than someone with an aluminum wheel with a 40"... I have three different sets of wheels that I have run, backspacing one set is 2.5, then 3" and i'm thinking the monsters are 3.5" b/s. God what a difference it makes as far as turning, hell just drivin in general is MUCH better.. And I'm guessing probably better for your axles , less strain.. Anything can be broken.. But there sure are a lot of Racelines on some really badass rigs where the guys apparently go and try to break every part on the rig when they drive and they hold up. It's kinda like telling someone that wants an Atlas "you know you can break in Atlas right?" Sure you can break in Atlas, when you fall from the sky about 11 feet with 500 hp + and you never once let off the gas. Question is do you plan on doing that silly ****? Me either!! I don't see 99% of us shattering an aluminum wheel being a problem. Then again what do I know... I can tell you the backspacing makes a huge difference. I personally would keep it as light as possible.

Good info man. Really dumb question I just CANNOT get my mind around. Backspacing....... Is it the higher the number the CLOSER they are to the vehicle? Meaning a 2" BS wheel would stick out further than a 5" BS wheel? Or is it vice versa? Here are some wheels I thought were different looking and I like but BS is 4.75 only. REDNECKLIGHTS...what methods did you buy?

Anyone ever had issues bending/cracking the inner bead of the aluminum wheels? Not sure why I am so worried about this all the sudden. Like KUSH, I'm not 700HP with bottomless pockets. Although, I do feel my Jeep ran a little better when I put the rock lights from Rednecklights on. Maybe 50HP or so.

Anyway, I'd be OK going with steel there are just not many options of styles that I can find. The aluminum has a wider variety.
 

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Yes 2 inch backspacing and you are touching the lines on each side of the road almost. Not to mention the steering radius sucks balls, and I'm positive that it's more wear and tear and rougher on your axles. I would have to look and see what mine are on the monsters , they may even be a 4 1/2 b/s
 
rednecklights said:
All bs aside , do you want bling ? Buy a set of aluminums , you will most likely never have an issue,

Want to save some cash ? Go steel.

There ain't a spits worth of weight to be saved bt them imho.
I agree. Except H1's. i saw 2 folks the same day run them for the first time and both broke somthing. Maybe just a coincidence, I can tell you though my buddies are fawkin heavy with that b/s rubber insert.
 
H1s are heavy. But there tough as hell. Recenter them and you can do any backspace that you want. I've ran them for years. Plus with 43" sx stickies you have no fear of the inner bead burping air. Just my 0.2c
 
rednecklights said:
All bs aside , do you want bling ? Buy a set of aluminums , you will most likely never have an issue,

Want to save some cash ? Go steel.

There ain't a spits worth of weight to be saved bt them imho.

Don't want bling specifically. Just saw during google searching that I can get KMC Aluminum from Sunfire (somewhat local to me) for less than I am finding most steel wheels for. I don't want to go source the dirt cheap rims used and get weld on's. I'm not that good at welding and when you start adding it all up, it's not that much cheaper.

So the bling aluminum came about from when I found the KMC's. Then I started looking for what all was out there.
 
My steel weld ons get abused, and if I had nice aluminum ones and they got beat up like my weld on rings it would make me sick to my stomach
 
kmcminn said:
JD, you keep your **** in 1st gear you aren't going to hurt a wheel. It don't matter what you put on a bouncer eventually it will fail. Some may before others. You give JD a 14 bolt front that TC can pop on demand, it will last him forever.

How would you know, you never go wheeling with us! :flipoff1:


P.S. you can spare a lot of broken parts by knowing how to drive :dblthumb:
 
ok so for real, why don't 2 or 3 guys with different wheels and the same size/style tire weigh theirs so we can compare. put say 5 or 10lbs of air in one and weigh it. I have always wanted to see some real numbers on this topic.

I will be out of town for a few days but I can weigh one of my 37in reds on basic steelies and about a 3in weld on ring with anti coning rings..

anyone else wanna play?
 
smbroady82 said:
My steel weld ons get abused, and if I had nice aluminum ones and they got beat up like my weld on rings it would make me sick to my stomach

I know what you mean. The rings won't bother me too much but gouges in the rims would. But, my main concern is completely breaking one. I don't have unlimited cash by any means, but I have the funds needed for the rims. Sunfire has these KMC's listed at $280 each free shipping. Other than the guy who has posted the china made steel wheels on Hardline (no replies from him yet) those are the cheapest I have found, plus they look good and from what I read on the interweb, seem to hold up for most people just fine.
 

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rpf500 said:
I know what you mean. The rings won't bother me too much but gouges in the rims would. But, my main concern is completely breaking one. I don't have unlimited cash by any means, but I have the funds needed for the rims. Sunfire has these KMC's listed at $280 each free shipping. Other than the guy who has posted the china made steel wheels on Hardline (no replies from him yet) those are the cheapest I have found, plus they look good and from what I read on the interweb, seem to hold up for most people just fine.

I think you are overthinking this like you did the whole coilover thing. If you break a wheel, you need to contact Cole (Madram) or Matt (Busted Knuckle) so they can start videoing you :****:
 
rpf500 said:
I know what you mean. The rings won't bother me too much but gouges in the rims would. But, my main concern is completely breaking one. I don't have unlimited cash by any means, but I have the funds needed for the rims. Sunfire has these KMC's listed at $280 each free shipping. Other than the guy who has posted the china made steel wheels on Hardline (no replies from him yet) those are the cheapest I have found, plus they look good and from what I read on the interweb, seem to hold up for most people just fine.
Call Scott at Sunfire, He is very helpful and will probably sell you the wheels cheaper than advertised. Also that wheel has 4.75 backspacing which is a plus to me.
 
ordered mine from sunfire one of the first 4 was drilled 5/8 inch out of center on the 8 lug pattern and center bore of the wheel but where very good to deal with
 
TacomaJD said:
I think you are overthinking this like you did the whole coilover thing. If you break a wheel, you need to contact Cole (Madram) or Matt (Busted Knuckle) so they can start videoing you :****:

I've broke a few inner lips on aluminum wheels... Moreso because I ran super low air pressure and 33s :****:
 
TacomaJD said:
I think you are overthinking this like you did the whole coilover thing. If you break a wheel, you need to contact Cole (Madram) or Matt (Busted Knuckle) so they can start videoing you :****:

You figured me out quick.....i over think most everything. But....when I'm done its done right. Thanks for all the info guys. Now I just gotta pull the trigger on something.
 
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