Rockwells make your sac swell!

Oh and I had the pinion bearing go out on a straight rear my fault and it sucked in mud and they exploded and would let the pinion bind up and you would have to back up to let it unbind and drive for a bit then it would lock up again and you would have to back up again. It took awhile to get back that day. and yea I'm hard on **** but rockwells aren't as strong in stock form as you would think they are. I ran a 67 model eaton rear axle before I went to rocks and other than leaking wheel seals it was really a badass rear end and I tried to break it and it was solid

My latest cranage :

Won't have to worry about that anymore Ray!! now and put that rig back together!!!

Lol....I hear ya. Soon brother very soon!!

fordcontraption01 said:

The burfield one will **** the bed first and tear the hell out of the closed knuckle sometimes completely rendering the housing useless :****:

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Are you guys referring to the same style joint? birfield is the middle joint. Granted its from the Internet but I have also read the birfield as being the strongest of the three due to it being the newest with the most modern heat treating.

The one in the middle is what I call birfields, and its what I've read is stronger. I wanted to ask on here because there seems to be a little more real facts and less internet facts.

Ive heard the same, ive seen some confusion on the ball and claw style mistakenly being called birfields, which is why I brought it up.

To my knowledge they are actually called Rzeppa in Rockwell terms, looks like a birfield, I have a set in my wife's front axle , ran em awhile in my wrangler but not sure how their gonna hold up with stickies and boost

Don't quote me on this but the earliest axle ( timken) had bendix shafts ( ball and claw) then they were bought by napco I think and they used Rzeppa shafts ( birfield lookin shaft) then Rockwell bought the company and went to ujoint shafts

Rockwells607 said:

Don't quote me on this but the earliest axle ( timken) had bendix shafts ( ball and claw) then they were bought by napco I think and they used Rzeppa shafts ( birfield lookin shaft) then Rockwell bought the company and went to ujoint shafts

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your right on this

you should look up Steve gerstner who owns differential engineering out of florida. He is quite the expert on this subject..he posted on this years ago on pirate...There is a "new" cv style which h is called a convell joint. He posted the numbers on pirate which showed the new style convell a good bit stronger than ujoint style in terms of lbs to yield failure of the joint .However, the new ones are much harder to source.

I'm doing pinion brakes on my rocks I'm running separate MC's and Toyota calipers. A have 2lb residual valves from another project left over. Should I put them in or leave them off? Any downside to running them besides two extra connections?

Taking out my orb of traction and installing the OEM spool. Anyone know the spec for the adjuster nuts on the carrier bearings?

Sweet up grade sir drool

fordcontraption01 said:

Sweet up grade sir drool

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Thxs! it took a while to gather up funds to do the swap but not having to worry about broken rear shafts is definitely gonna be worth it. Seeing your post about all your carnage I know u understand that

Eddyj said:

I'm doing pinion brakes on my rocks I'm running separate MC's and Toyota calipers. A have 2lb residual valves from another project left over. Should I put them in or leave them off? Any downside to running them besides two extra connections?

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I run same calipers and I just run a direct line from the master...no valves. Works great for me.

Eddyj said:

I'm doing pinion brakes on my rocks I'm running separate MC's and Toyota calipers. A have 2lb residual valves from another project left over. Should I put them in or leave them off? Any downside to running them besides two extra connections?

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I tried residual valves once and it made the pinion brake chatter that is so common about 20x worse than normal. It was so bad that I actually took them out and re-plumbed it on the trail, couldn't wait to get back to the shop.

No idea on what you are actually talking about as far as the adjuster nut. But I have had this place bookmarked for years just cause. Little bit of looking and I found the diff rebuild/repair/replace blah blah pages. starts in about 224 and goes til i have no idea.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-361-34.pdf

1tonyj said:

Thxs! it took a while to gather up funds to do the swap but not having to worry about broken rear shafts is definitely gonna be worth it. Seeing your post about all your carnage I know u understand that

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I'll get there one day soon but when I do I gotta get two sets and be hopefully done with it.

We only use residual valves when the master cyl is lower than the calipers. I don't see why else they would be needed????