Search results for query: *

yeah squirrel that was my truck, i miss it but i needed somethin that would fit the wife and kids with me and be street legal. good to hear that the trucks hangin in there, i gotta re-do the entire braking and steering systems to make the cruiser safer to daily drive

hows the truck workin out for ya? i figured you would cut it up a lil bit

Jesus Luey, you and your tow rigs

Best cans i have used by far!

probably has forged pistons and the bore aint big anough so when it warms up there is too much friction and it siezes up

L45 3.93, dual stock cases 2.28x2, diffs 4.37 = 89:1, good enough for the trails i run but wouldnt mind some 4.7's in the 2nd case

Oilburners.net, pretty good amount of Ford IDI info and builds

we were just talkin about that like a month ago when i picked up that motor from ya, i figured it would have busted a leaf in the pack of trashed the whole pack before you snapped any studs. But it looks great overall, maybe a lil bracing on the frame end and on the track bar mount too.

pook your buggy is eff'n sexy and those trails are sick lookin

i'm with all the guy here, good quality parts but if you want your stuff to actually get to you make sure to call the order in, and make sure they send it Fed Ex or the postal service will lose it or UPS will damage it.

right on with the ARB now i'm not the only one that has done it

only reason somebody would do that is if the center ball in the H-yoke was busted, mine broke a long time ago and when it turned the whole shaft just flopped around

if your gonna do a square tube read the Pirate FAQ and look at how its been done before to save yourself some hassel, and use the later model deeper IFS yokes, they'll flex for miles

correct on the 8mm holes but those early trucks did have Double Cardans

the length difference should be 4.75 inches, the most flexible cardan joint i have found is in the 79/80 trucks but the longer yoke shafts were in the second and third gen trucks, you almost always end up drilling the flanges or buying the triple drilled ones

amen.

yeah its deffinately the ignitor crapin out on ya, call 410 Auto wrecking in Buckley, they'll get you one for 75$ i went through five of them in my truck before i called it quits and went all MSD

i home brewed mine, just took the stock rubbers and welded them to some 2" square tube and welded the tube under the frame, or you could get the bumpstop kit from TG, Marlin, All-pro, they are like $35-$50

it flexes plenty at each corner, you just need bumpstops, i have broken an axle when my pitman arm got hung up on the spring and i couldnt turn, fix that and make sure there is no binding in other areas and go beat it

where is the york mounting pics man? do you have it on a stock ac bracket/tensioner or is it all home-fabbed? N/M i see it now