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02 Xterra SAS plans, input welcome

Ice

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2011
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75
Location
Monroe
I have been trying to plan out my sas. I have most of it figured out, but I need some help. It seems my ideas for my truck change on a day to day basis, but when it changes the new option seems like a much better option from the one before.

First off, I dont much like the thought of an evolving build, meaning, doing an IFS suspensionn lift, body lift, etc like I was initially planning and then doing the sas later on down the road. The reason for that is twofold. I know what I want my rig to look like and the capabilities that I want it to have in the end, so I dont want to make any upgrades to it that do not help to achieve that end. Second, I find it a huge waste of money to get lockers, regearing, lift and all that done and then decide to do an sas with a clean slate and an empty bank account. My ideology is if you're going to do it at all, do it right the first time.

With that in mind, I am planning now so when the money comes around, I will know what to do.

Suspension
I have decided, with help from Charlie, to do a Front and rear 3-link suspension setup with coilovers for maximum travel. Heres why.
-I can pick and choose what ride height that I want
-I have more options for how much flex my rig will have, moreso than with a leaf steup
-Lastly, and most importantly, since nina's accident, she is very scared of off camber trails, leaning over, large bumps, etc for a fear of rolling over again. If she ever does come out on the trail again, I want her to feel safe. This setup will allow the cab to stay relatively level and still have a large amount of flex.
-All joints and brackets will be coming from Ballistic fabrication, they seem to have really high quality parts.

Axles
As far as the axles go, I know the front will be a Waggy 44, I know they work and work well. The rear axle is a different story. Thats what I am having trouble with. Ultimately I'd like to go with a dana 60 for strength, But I dont know what vehicle has the correct width, to match the waggy 44. other options are a dana 44 or a 14 bolt rear, but the same problems arise. I dont know what parent vehicle has the correct width, and I know next to nothing about a 14 bolt rear. Strength, availability, etc.

Whatever axles I decide on, before they are installed i will be regearing to 5.13 gears from Randy's Ring and Pinion, and ARB lockers front and rear.

If I have left anything out I will add as I remember. Let me know what you think.

I did just remember something. I need suggestons on selecting coilovers.
 
With the HP44 and 9" you'd be full width unless you narrowed them. A waggy rear holds 36-37" tires fine(you didnt mention tire size). If you put cromos in them all the better. If your worried about pinion size carl jantz makes a kit to put the JK wrangler ring and pinion (D60 size pinion shaft/bigger ring gear) in the D44.

If your dead set on a D60 rear look for a late 60's early 70's ford F250 their 63" wide, but your still only 30 spline D44 size shafts.

Stu
 
If yer ol lady is scared of body roll on the trail, wit till you hit the streets with a linked up wheeler.

Waggy D44s are junk also in my opinion. Extremely shitty pinion angle and a spring under casting. Only d44 worse than that is a scout front.


I would use a HPd44 out of a ford.

Rear? get a older ford d60 and then dont worry about dragging a huge 14bff anchor over things.

Just cuz an older rear 60 has a 30 spline shaft like a d44 doesnt mean they are equal.

The d60 with 30 splines will break a shaft if anything, and can easily be driven with a broken shaft and no tear down on the trail. Its an easy upgrade to chromo shafts too. The d60 will have lots of gear/diff strength.

The d44 will have the same axleshafts but also a weak wussy gear set. Break them gears and you can have a bad day trying to drive home. Ever see a full float d44? Wheel falls off when the axle breaks, that dont happen with a d60.


For fronts you could also use a toyota front axle. Use a backwards housing from a place like RuffStuff and build a bomb proof front toy axle for it.
 
-All joints and brackets will be coming from Ballistic fabrication, they seem to have really high quality parts.


They will rip you off. Ballistic has been banned form pirate and have burned countless numbers of folks leading up to this. They have even burned some large vendors that have made it public that they do not support ballistic.

I have heard so many people complain about shipping and customer service and about bad quality parts being hard to return or impossible all together.


Look to Dan at RuffStuff for HIGH QUALITY parts from a GREAT man with customers, quality and price being number one concerns.

You will NEVER find a person with any bad to say about Dan/RS parts and service.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/
 
They will rip you off. Ballistic has been banned form pirate and have burned countless numbers of folks leading up to this. They have even burned some large vendors that have made it public that they do not support ballistic.

I have heard so many people complain about shipping and customer service and about bad quality parts being hard to return or impossible all together.


Look to Dan at RuffStuff for HIGH QUALITY parts from a GREAT man with customers, quality and price being number one concerns.

You will NEVER find a person with any bad to say about Dan/RS parts and service.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/

X2 on this. Dan with Ruffstuff is a great guy and great products. Nearly every bracket big or small on my rig has been through him. Ballistic isnt what they used to be...
 
X2 on this. Dan with Ruffstuff is a great guy and great products. Nearly every bracket big or small on my rig has been through him. Ballistic isnt what they used to be...

sorry for the hi-jack.... But it sounds like Ballistic bit off more then they could chew/offer...:eeek: Over advertised and under produced....



Btw, subscribing to your build thread when and IF you start one...:awesomework:

Do the backwards front end Choppy talked about, cant go wrong with Yota axles...:awesomework:
 
Watched a stock Xterra try to go through "Hell" last weekend. :laughing3: It'll never be the same. :redneck:

Hey i saw that too:awesomework: I dont think he liked bumper cars very much....But it did have tons more clearance once we ripped off the front bumper:haha::D:beer:
 
Not sure if you want advice from a shop or not, but we would not do a 3 link. 4 links work better and do not have that many more parts. Especially if your driving on the street. Going coil overs works the best in our opinion because you can change ride hight and spring rates very quickly. So your on the right track there!

As for the axles, we would recommend a Toyota front end either out of the truck or the cruiser. Cruiser is stronger, harder to find though. They take a lot of power and you can build them crazy. Main thing is they are strong in the first place.
The rear we would run either a built 60, or a Ford 9 inch. If your really worried about strength, the Ford 9 1/2 (9 1/4 really) with floating axles and 4130 housing.
We do not think you would really need anything really big, 35s are not that huge.

Whether or not you run a 3 or a 4 link, just pre-set up your suspension before ordering your coilovers. Plan on adding some angle to them and make sure you twist the set up first before tacking the shocks into place. Start from full bottom out for set up. Not full droop.

Hope that helps you out!
:D
 
Isnt it like a sin... to put Toyota parts in a Nissan?:stirpot:


Yes I agree that putting superior toyota parts on a nisssan will not change the fact that its a nissan. He could go to hell for that, but would have a nice front axle till then.:D
 
Not sure if you want advice from a shop or not?

As for the axles, we would recommend a Toyota front end either out of the truck or the cruiser. Cruiser is stronger, harder to find though. They take a lot of power and you can build them crazy. Main thing is they are strong in the first place.

:D

A cruiser has its pros and cons compared to a mini axle. the housings on both are weak, the ring is bigger on a cruiser but the pinion IS NOT. The cruiser has less aftermarket support, the cruiser axle will have less clearance.


Most shops know ya cant put a toyota/cruiser axle under a nissan........

unless,

Ya cut and flip the OEM housing and spend lots of fab time.

Or use an aftermarket housing thats been designed to run the diff on the drivers side like the ford and nissan do.
 
I hope you budgeted for sway bars if you're worried about body roll, a linked cab truck will do the slinky action on a side hill like anything else.
 
I want to avoid leafs. And a 4 link rear is not possible without relocating the gas tank... that's more than I'm willing to do to a DD rig.
 
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If yer ol lady is scared of body roll on the trail, wit till you hit the streets with a linked up wheeler.

Waggy D44s are junk also in my opinion. Extremely shitty pinion angle and a spring under casting. Only d44 worse than that is a scout front.


I would use a HPd44 out of a ford.

Rear? get a older ford d60 and then dont worry about dragging a huge 14bff anchor over things.

Just cuz an older rear 60 has a 30 spline shaft like a d44 doesnt mean they are equal.

The d60 with 30 splines will break a shaft if anything, and can easily be driven with a broken shaft and no tear down on the trail. Its an easy upgrade to chromo shafts too. The d60 will have lots of gear/diff strength.

The d44 will have the same axleshafts but also a weak wussy gear set. Break them gears and you can have a bad day trying to drive home. Ever see a full float d44? Wheel falls off when the axle breaks, that dont happen with a d60.

Granted the HP44 is better for pinion angle, BUT it's still a 44...they just brake in reverse. It'd also have to be narrowed. Like I said jantz makes a kit to put the JK 44 gearset in the standard rotation 44 it's D60 size R/P and with more of a bevled cut on the gears= more contact between the R/P. I've beat my waggy 44's with 36" swampers and 513 gears and only ever broke stock axles

And yes I have seen FF D44's...custom but not that hard to do. Like he said he's goin 35's so a 60 is overkill.

All depends on the $$ you want to spend easist would be a SAS toyota in front with leafs. I've always used dana diffs, atleast the housings are not made of tinfoil.

Stu
 
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