14 bolt crush sleeve eliminator

[tonybolton]

Since my 14 bolt yoke is broke....its comin off obviously.

Say **** it and reuse old crush sleeve or buy the eliminator/spacer/shim kit?

....uuugghh...tryin to keep my mind off losing a great friend....

 

[Bebop]

I wouldn't re-use it but if you can achieve the good preload with it, I don't see why it would hurt anything.

 

[ranger11]

Re:

I'd opt for the eliminator just because it won't change one you set it up. But you can check with the sleeve and if it's not right order the eliminator. As it sits now it's no extra labor to try what you have the eliminator you will have to pull the carrier to get set up.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[tonybolton]

Re:

Using redneckolgy here....

Would I not be able just to remove the Yoke pull the crush sleeve and then put a spacer and shim pack in maybe just slightly less than the width of the crush sleeve?

 

[ranger11]

Re:

You'll have to remove the seal first and then a bearing to get to the sleeve. Sometimes those bearings are hard to get out. Most of the time I have to knock the pinion out ( removing carrier) to get the bearing off the pinion.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[tonybolton]

Uuuiigggghhhh.....this'll be my first adventure into a 14 bolt. Short of removing the diff cover.

 

[ranger11]

Re:

Well I had a brain fart. You can unbolt the pinion from the housing then set up the pinion. Sorry I didn't think of that before posting. Lol

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[tonybolton]

Re:

No biggie....learnin as I go....

 

[ranger11]

Re:

Remove the 5 or 6 bolts on the pinion housing, the knock pinion out with rubber hammer then knock bearing out from backside. It'll take the seal and crush sleeve with it. Then install the eliminator and a few shims install brg and yoke tq to spec and check pre load. I doubt you have an inch lb tq wrench(most don't) however should have a little resistance and no in and out play. If you go that route and need help pm I'll call you. It's pretty straight forward

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[Beerj]

I'm not even sure how accurate in/lb torque wrenches are. The only ones I've seen, mine included, are 1/4" drive. Just seems like something would be off with all of the stepping up to 1/2" drive to fit a socket for the nut. I'd say just try to get a feel for how tight the pinion is once you get it out and try to match that. I would imagine it will have fairly low resistance being that you're running the original bearings.

 

[TBItoy]

You use a swinging beam style in-lb torque wrench to measure rolling preload


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ranger11]

Re:

I use a dial inch lb wrench. I've read that the beam style isn't as accurate. I've yet to compare the beam to the dial since I paid 300 for the new dial style. However I've don't alot of diffs and haven't had a failure. The guy that taught me went by feel. I'm confident now that I could go by feel but it took a while to know what proper pre load felt like. And the beerj is right used bearings just rotate kinda freely. As long as there's no in and out you'll be fine for a trail rig.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[TBItoy]

Dial / beam ( not a clicker ! )

I use a park tools beam that was ~$20


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[redneckengineered]

If you're just swapping yokes, I would reuse it. Just be careful that you don't over tighten and crush it further (pretty hard to do). Done this many times, no issues in a trail rig.

That being said, I did eventually go to the solid spacer. It's just nice to be able to change a yoke and not have to worry about it. One less thing. I would not pull the whole rearend apart to do that one upgrade though. If you ever have to do gears or something, that is the time to do it.

 

[Beerj]

Dial / beam ( not a clicker ! )

I use a park tools beam that was ~$20


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think mine was made for bicycles. Or at least it was on a bicycle stuff site. All of the other ones I found were crazy expensive and I only planned on building that 1 diff. I'm not sure how many I've done since then but I just go by feel now. So far so good!

 

[tonybolton]

Re:

I've done an 8.8 Ford rear end with a crush sleeve and managed to do okay and it was a trail rig too so I'm thinking I'll have hopefully the same luck with this one.

I know the one in the 8.8 was pretty hard to crush I can only imagine what a 14-bolt would be

 

[Beerj]

I wonder if you could throw a shim on over the crush sleeve. I suppose it's basically the same difference as you would still need to crank on the nut

 

[ranger11]

Re:

I've done that on one I went to far on.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[TBItoy]

I wonder if you could throw a shim on over the crush sleeve. I suppose it's basically the same difference as you would still need to crank on the nut

On junkyard Toyota Friday night diff gear swaps, I've smacked the rib on the crush sleeve and couple times to make the crush sleeve grow a bit, set the preload, then tacked the pinion nut in place to hold


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jon Piper]

Go with the eliminator while you've got it out. Yah cheap bastid!