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14 bolt shave and intro

LightBnDr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2014
Messages
1,620
Hey guys. Im new here but been lurking for a while. I live a good 8 hours west of you guys but man I wish I had a group of you closer. This board makes for some great morning **** reading. I have a buddy that just moved to town that is native to nashville. He mentioned this site to me. Hopefully I'll get to meet a few of you on the trail. My names Justin.

So since I finished my rig almost 3 years ago I have always wanted to shave my 14 bolt. This axle is the only rear axle I have ever run in the 7 years I have been wheeling. It came out from under my ZJ and is now on its 3rd truss design.

I have always ran 42 inch TSLs on H1 8 bolt bead locks. The drawback is the true height of these tires are only 37 inches and combined with a 14 bolt that isn't shaved, I hang up on every dang rock in a park.

Now, I can say that I have never been denied a climb because of it but it has made me angry more times than I can count and kept me from taking a line that I wanted. So I decided to do a shave and run 42in red labels. In total I gained a true 5 inches of ground clearance.

Old design:
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A couple of weeks ago I started the tear down. I ordered a shave kit from TMR customs in Canada. It was half the price of ballistic and I already had a 3/8 plate diff cover to work with so it was the smartest decision. I ordered a low profile 1/2in plate truss as well.

I started by trimming the ribs with my plasma cutter off the bottom. The kit claims to fit 76-87 14bolts that have a smooth housing. I have a 95 so it required a little extra to make the shave fit properly.
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Then I marked my housing. I have 2 lines because one was incorrect. This proved to be the hardest part of the shave. Trying to mark and measure plus cut at a 6deg angle with a thin cutting wheel as perfect as possible. Lol fun stuff.

Then I went to cuttin. I used a thin 7 inch cutting disc. It worked far better than a sawzall or metal blade.
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I cut the housing first, then bolted the cover up and cut the cover with it on the housing. Seemed to work really well.
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I cut deeper than what the kit called for and machined my ring gear to match. I wanted a true 3 inches.
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After all the cutting was done, I used my grinder to fine trim the edges so angles were correct. It went real smooth it didn't take much time at all. It was time to install the cover plate. I preheated my housing to 400deg. I ran out of acetylene of course so in emergency I used a map gas torch and it worked well. Just took a while to preheat. I preheated the plate and housing together. Then burned her in outside first.
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I had to make a patch plate because of the extra amount I shaved to get a full 3 inches. Then burned in the inside.
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Then moved to the diff cover.
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Clearance turned out just right. I also installed a new truss to clean up my old rushed through design. I really like it.

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If I did it all over again I would have used a mask during all my cutting and grinding. I had a bloody nose for a week and the smell of raw metal. I would have used a strap bolted to the housing in place of the diff cover to keep the housing from flexing during welding and cooling. I know I'm leaving out a couple steps but only what involves cleaning all the dust out of the housing before reassembly.

Felt like sharing the process. It went really smooth. Figured it may steer someone in the shave direction if they were considering it.
 
Thanks for the write up, I have been wanting to do this to mine, just to many other projects on it that have taken priority.
 
I'll post some pics of my rig when I'm done up front. I have the rest of my laundry list to complete. Lol
Thanks guys
 
Can you post some information on how you machined your ring gear? Tooling, machine set up ect. I bought a kit and would like to complete the project but every machinist that I have taken the ring gear to is scared to death to attempt cutting it down because of the voids/interuptions in the gear. Maybe I can pass along some encouraging info to these guys!
 
Patriot Customs said:
Can you post some information on how you machined your ring gear? Tooling, machine set up ect. I bought a kit and would like to complete the project but every machinist that I have taken the ring gear to is scared to death to attempt cutting it down because of the voids/interuptions in the gear. Maybe I can pass along some encouraging info to these guys!
I machined mine on a lath, and yes I will admit that the interupted cut sucks balls and will trash out some carbide inserts, if I had to pay for the inserts I trashed it would have been cheaper to bought pre-machined gears. I also attempted to grind them on an OD grinder and what I was thinking turned out to be true, they loaded the grinding wheel to fast and I was spending more time dressing the wheel than I was grinding. Not the info you want to hear, but is my experience.
 
I've done two 14 bolt ring gears ..one a OEM and one a Yukon , I can tell you the stock GM gear was one tough bitch. The first gear I did was the Yukon and I did it on a large engine lathe and it beat the **** out of the tools but was doable. I started the OEM ring on the lathe but quickly realized it wasn't gonna work , didn't matter weather I used ceramic or carbide it just laughed at turning tools. I ended up putting it on a creep feed grinder and ground it no problem..nice to have access to a 75 hp grinder. I charged 50$ To do each one and wasn't enough.
 
My buddy runs a machine shop that does major fabrication work under contract. He has a CNC that will do it and he can walk away from it but if that's in use he uses a rotary mill that looks a little like a cork screw with razor sharp edges but has to be manually set after each pass. He used the rotary mill for mine. He used a bit that was already out of spec for their contract projects. Just in case the bit chewed up.

Eddyj:
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