2 Piece DS-Pillow Block Mounting

[Blase]

POPS do you or have you guys ever seen a Driveshaft come loose and bust the battery? I was thinking about mounting my battery down in the belly on my buggy but it would have to be next to the T-case output and that scares me. Just curious.

Great looking buggy!!!!! I am normally not a Moon buggy fan but that thing looks cool as ****!! Adam you have some skills son ;D.

 

[InDaShop]

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[P]

dude Blase, hit of the "555 Repair Report" thread. Yeah a driveshaft will **** up a battery. When my front pillow block let loose it beat 3/16 aluminum up over 3/4 of and inch.

Dont run a cast pillow block, continuously after you know its broke in a comp enviroment or add driveshaft captures on each end.

Fixed it for you. laughing1 C'mon man, you know as well as I do that more than a hundred people run those cast pillows day in and day out on trail rigs with out problems. yea they break from time to time but they dont just blow apart and kill all your parts in one shot.

 

[InDaShop]

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[blacksheep10]

Fixed it for you. laughing1 C'mon man, you know as well as I do that more than a hundred people run those cast pillows day in and day out on trail rigs with out problems. yea they break from time to time but they dont just blow apart and kill all your parts in one shot.

most people dont' break them because they don't drop out of the sky on the shaft and shatter it. it only takes a couple revolutions to do major damage anyway.

 

[Blase]

dude Blase, hit of the "555 Repair Report" thread. Yeah a driveshaft will **** up a battery. When my front pillow block let loose it beat 3/16 aluminum up over 3/4 of and inch.

Dont run a cast pillow block, or add driveshaft captures on each end.

That was my point. If **** happens like it always does the battery by something like the dirve shaft seems kind of dangerous to me. What do think would have happened if your battery was in the line of your pillow block? Would it have blown up or just made a mess? That is what I want to know.

 

[InDaShop]

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[BamaTJ]

Guys, let's at least try to keep Build Threads free from BS topic changes. I gave you your own thread

 

[Blase]

Ok. Does anyone have part numbers to build a two pc drive shaft like Randy built on PBB? Looks pretty easy to do if you knwo what part numbers to use for all spicer yokes.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=386737&stc=1&d=1219465484
[urlhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=386738&stc=1&d=1219465484][/url]

 

[GStone]

My cast block broke the first time out and ripped a hole in the oil filter, spewing oil all over the exhaust and it bursted into flames,broke a few other cast ones after that also. I've run a stainless pillow block for the last year or more, no issues. I put an aluminum guard around the oil filter just in case. High angle sells them but it wasn't cheap , maybe $100?

 

[InDaShop]

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[rock mafia]

Greg- Where did you get your stainless block? P showed me these, but they still appear to be a cast product. Is that wrong? http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-Pillow-Block-Bearings-cln-Stainless-Steel/Categories

High angle drive line. Theirs are cast as well.

 

[Travis]

My cast block broke the first time out and ripped a hole in the oil filter, spewing oil all over the exhaust and it bursted into flames,broke a few other cast ones after that also. I've run a stainless pillow block for the last year or more, no issues. I put an aluminum guard around the oil filter just in case. High angle sells them but it wasn't cheap , maybe $100?

But you aren't telling them about the binding that you had causing them to break. Mine used to do the same, after limiting the travel on that side, no more broken pillow blocks.

 

[GStone]

Actually.I later found my biggest problem was not keeping the yoke at the axle end greased enough. It would start to bind and then snap the cast block. That was the crazy suspension cycling moaning noise the driveshaft would make that would get worse and worse until popping the pillow block. I bought the cast (stainless block) and shortly thereafter figured out the yoke issue. Either way that block from Highangle has yet to fail.

 

[Blase]

Greg- Where did you get your stainless block? P showed me these, but they still appear to be a cast product. Is that wrong? http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-Pillow-Block-Bearings-cln-Stainless-Steel/Categories

Blase, Randy Slawson used what he had an F-250 carrier bearing, and stripped the crap away from it. It works for him, but said he forsees issues with it. I talked to him on the phone for a good bit about it.

The stuff to make your own. Go to Tractor Supply or Northern Tool they carry everything you need. I am running a P208 bearing, its a standard tractor style, that fits in a P208 pillow block. However, Kelly had a guy make me a billet version on the Cast P208 so mine is currently a custom piece, but my spare is still just your standard $19 P208 from any tractor store, and my bearing is the same.

Take your measurement and go bearing to bearing to get the correct ID for your shaft support.
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/pillowblockbearing.html

Thanks Wyatt. I was not as concerned with the carrier bearing until I red that Randy thought his carrier bearing might give him trouble. That part looks fairly easy , like he did it. I guess what i should have asked was does anyone have the part numbers for the area that the carrier bearing rides on and the yoke at the end of the first shaft. The middle section if you will. What is on the right of this picture.
www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=386738&stc=1&d=1219465484

 

[P]

Looky at this thread getting all grown and getting real world informative discussion.

Im so proud of you guys I could cry :'(


I know the P208 style cast ones fail here and there, I think alot of it has to do with odd angles and so on as well. These things ARE NOT made to have any deflection in them, I mean NONE. I think you get them kicked sideways a little and they get a side load of any sort from the driveline shock and your gonna get troubles. Hell I've been running that big janky over the counter Gm truck stock carrier bearing and while it hasnt "failed" it does vibe like hell ( side loaded since its so large and I cant get it any closer to being in plane with a D300/TH350 ) So I opted for an el-cheapo P208 style which is 2" overall smaller in diameter, that will bring my front shaft so much closer to plane , and possibly ( Ill know shorty, Im in the garage doing this right now actually... ) straighten my front driveline out completely. Im sure if I had a smaller upper driveshaft like the "canyon crawler" style that JE Reel sells ( props to Scott from Scotts4x4 on that blurb ) it would be completely inline the way my chassis and drivetrain is laid out.


Let me finish up and Ill let you know how I fair with this version of the experiment..... Either way, great information from everyone here. Good post fellar's

 

[traveler]

call jimmy at essentually ask him what he used in danials green buggy its bad ass

 

[POPS58]

Allright AC has enlightened me on this subject.Here are a few pics of the way he likes to do his.Listen closely,the trick is to use the right block and mount it through a piece of metal so if it were to break not to sling around and beat the **** out of everything on the car.Now its yo turn..........


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[POPS58]

The part number from Motion Industries is 124277 and runs $ 89.90. This is very classified information please don't let it out :flipper: :flipper: :flipper:

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[rock mafia]

Might want to try here, that price is a little steep.

http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008111822441653&item=1-207-22-2&catname=powerTrans

http://surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=20&lastrec=20&sort=1&keyword=PBF2&catname=powerTrans&UID=2008111822441653