22 RE Engine Problems

[toyman21]

what about the coil,ignighter,cat converter,injectors,fuel pump and or screen in the tank

 

[whiterice]

what about the coil,ignighter,cat converter,injectors,fuel pump and or screen in the tank

injectors rebuilt, new fuel pump with new screen
coil? haven't looked or tested it yet, don't think there is any trouble with
the cat exhaust

best way to test a coil????

 

[dove'd85]

injectors rebuilt, new fuel pump with new screen
coil? haven't looked or tested it yet, don't think there is any trouble with
the cat exhaust

best way to test a coil????

swap in a different one and see if your problem goes away

 

[fattymctrickle]

First off, did this problem start after you did some work to the car??? Did you replaced those parts to try and fix this problem or did you replace those parts and now have this problem??

And a couple things to check.

Ignition Timing.
TPS position/condition
Ignition advance (check for advance when rev'd up)
RPM signal to ecm from distributor
Check signal to coil from ecm and from ecm to coil

Also check for codes stored by the ecm even if the check engine light isnt on, 22re's have a lot of codes that wont set the light.

 

[whiterice]

RPM signal to ecm from distributor
Check signal to coil from ecm and from ecm to coil

How do you get this done?

 

[fattymctrickle]

Well I guess your probably not going to be able to do those tests. You need a scope or a scan tool with the ability to be used like a scope. If you have a volt meter you can check for continuity of the wire's but you'll need a wiring diagram.

But if your getting ignition advance then you have the rpm signal. And if you didnt have the coil signals then there would be a code in the system, I dont think it would trip the light though.

Does it not go over exactly 2k rpms or just around there??

 

[Trainwreckinseattle]

I really think you should take it to the Toyota dealer.

On some stuff it really is worth the experience and knowlege of a team that only sees one brand all day long every day.

:corn:

 

[Glenn]

I really think you should take it to the Toyota dealer.

On some stuff it really is worth the experience and knowlege of a team that only sees one brand all day long every day.

:corn:

There are some very capable NON-DEALER mechanics out there. Some are even on this board. I used to use one of them. And I use a non-dealer mechanic now. Why do you invariably say DEALER?

 

[mcbadwsih]

Once I had a cracked intake boot inbetween the maf and the intake and it ran all kinds of screwed up. Ive also had the maf get stuck all the way open.

 

[whiterice]

Does it not go over exactly 2k rpms or just around there??

Pretty much, and it just goes flat, no run no stumble no throttle response, then after the rpm's drop to around 1k you can give it light throttle and it will
run as long as you don't go over 2k. Then you start over with it going dead.
Very consistant. Only thing is like in the earlier post, once cold, it will rev
to around 3k until just before full engine temp. then it is back to the 2k.

I never did a pressure test, no tools, is there a way to test/bypass the fuel pressure gauge? If I just pinch off the return line will that blow the fuel pump?

 

[fattymctrickle]

Pinching the return line wont hurt anything, it will richen the afr up a little and could point you in the right direction.

I'd also suggest taking it to a dealer or an aftermarket shop with a good reputation.

And Glenn dealerships have intelligent, certified tech's that will be able to figure this problem out gauranteed. Some aftermarket shops do to, but some would be throwing parts at it just like he is.

 

[Trainwreckinseattle]

There are some very capable NON-DEALER mechanics out there. Some are even on this board. I used to use one of them. And I use a non-dealer mechanic now. Why do you invariably say DEALER?

The reason I highly recomend a dealer is unless you have a known working relationship with an independant who is VERY VERY VYER VYERYVYEYY KNOWLEDGABLE IN TOYOTAS they will simply be doing all the things any hair brained mechanich knows to start with.

Like tune up, TPS, yada yada....... he, it would seem has surpassed common knowledge and needs someone who is exreamly familiar with this exact vehicle and hopefully exact problem.

The average shop sees 3 Toyota trucks a month. The dealer sees 50, and has 8 guys working for them instead of 2. The more eyes looking at a problem the better. Especially in a super stuck like this !!!

 

[Bunk1]

Once I had a cracked intake boot inbetween the maf and the intake and it ran all kinds of screwed up. Ive also had the maf get stuck all the way open.

Damn!!! Beat me to it. Take those boots off bruce and look for a crack at the underside, Ya gotta flex it to see the crack easier. I had one with a tear and it did way funky runability stuff, Pretty sure it was the one at the throttle body end. I just duct taped the hell out of it and ran it

 

[Trainwreckinseattle]

Yikes you would think one of the first things to test in a runability situation woud be the carb cleaner spray test. To check for cracks and vacuum leaks.

Always start with the simple things. Too many people skip right to pulling out hair.

1: make sure air is in tires
2: check fuel level verify fuel getting to system
3: Check for strong spark
2: check for leaks, broken wires, broken vsv valves, listen for hisss, spray with carb cleaner or starting fluid.
7: pull codes
3: drink a beer and scratch head
1: REV THE PISS OUT OF MOTOR (this would have found an intake boot leak)
9: do a compression test

10: If any codes address them
11: if no codes really scratch head (and start thinking about mechanical things like clogged cat, Hairy *****, cat scratch fever, bad cam lobe etc.)
12: take to dealer or very knowledgable and trusted mechanic
13: sell and buy a brand new Chevy Aveo

 

[Bunk1]

Yikes you would think one of the first things to test in a runability situation woud be the carb cleaner spray test. To check for cracks and vacuum leaks.

Always start with the simple things, Such as taking it to the dealer and getting raped. Too many people skip right to pulling out hair.

1: make sure air is in tires
2: check fuel level verify fuel getting to system
3: Check for strong spark
2: check for leaks, broken wires, broken vsv valves, listen for hisss, spray with carb cleaner or starting fluid.
7: pull codes
3: drink a beer and scratch head
1: REV THE PISS OUT OF MOTOR (this would have found an intake boot leak)
9: do a compression test

10: If any codes address them
11: if no codes really scratch head (and start thinking about mechanical things like clogged cat, bad cam lobe etc.)
12: take to dealer or very knowledgable and trusted mechanic
13: sell and buy a brand new Chevy Aveo

fixed

 

[flip]

dos it still have the cat that can some times be an issue if its clogged

 

[Skid Mark]

Well when all else fails and you want to keep your truck pull off all the electronic bs and go carberated I did in the past with a 94 4runner and it worked out great. It ran better on the bottom end but lost a little on the top. It was cheeper for me to pick up the few parts from the wrecking yard to go carberated, then replacing two electronic parts to try and solve the problem...Also the vacume diophrams in the distribeter go out reguarly both R\R-E that will kill power right around mid rpm range

 

[Trainwreckinseattle]

Unless there is some garbage for California emissions.

Only 22R (Carburated) and 83-84 22RE (EFI) had vacuum advance. I've never seen an 85+ 22RE (EFI) with vacuum advance.

 

[03 CON]

This is going to sound silly stupid, but have you checked your air cleaner, have you been around any water/mud?

I only ask because....

 

[84Toyota4x4]

A friends 89 22RE did this same thing after wheeling it through the creek. It was because there was water in the AFM. Out of desperation, I cut the silicone and popped the top off, poured the water out, dried it out, and it ran fine. It didnt LOOK like water could have gotten in, but I cant tell you how happy I was to find it in there after fighting with it for a couple days.

~T.J.