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22 RE Engine Problems

whiterice

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
247
Location
Lynnwood
I have a 1986 Toyota with 22re and it has an issue! The truck starts, warms up and idles totally fine, and as i start to drive it runs perfect but as soon as i hit 2000 RPM's the motor just loses all power. The motor stays running but theirs no throttle response or anything.Then once the idle falls back down around 1700 RPM's the motor picks back up and runs fine. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance
 
Check for codes.

If you don't know how get a repair manual.

It could be a TPS, O2, MAF, Injectors, all kinds of things.

Super common is TPS and O2.
 
Swing and a miss That's 3 and an out!!

Check for codes.

If you don't know how get a repair manual.

It could be a TPS, O2, MAF, Injectors, all kinds of things.

Super common is TPS and O2.

This has been a real drain on the wallet,
same issuses, starts and ideals fine, runs up to 2K and then falls on it's
face. Just flat quit- cuts out, no rough running or missing-, throttle position does nothing. Let the rpm's drop to 1k and you can step on the
gas and it will run fine/smooth up to 2k or so again and quit running. I
never dies, cause when the r's drop to 1k, it runs. You can drive it all around the block under 1,700 and it is fine, like that is good..

So with the TPS 02, MAF, injectors all changed out, what is the problem?? Electrical is next in line, but where to start??? The truck has 240K and the engine has under 100k. Good compression, and new tune parts, cap/rotor, wires,plugs.

What's up with the Toy not running right, that's just natural.....
 
Jeep are you sure,, It could be Toy with a body kit
Wait one of the boys has the Toy, I do have a Jeep, whew
thought I messed up there for a minute. But the 22re is still
sad shape.
 
Have you checked the timing?

Because I had something KIND of like this happen on my 81 22R.

Ended up being a loose connection between the coil and the distributor.
 
Sometimes it is MUCH less expensive to take it to THE DEALER than to keep pulling the trigger on the parts shot gun.

It sounds like you have changed everything except the computer and wiring.


I say sell it on Craigslist. Tell them about all the new parts and you were just in a horrific accident so if they take it on a test drive they have to drive SLOW, preferably under 1,700 RPM.

Cuz it's the Craigslist way !!!:haha::haha::haha:
 
how about the fuel filter? or the fuel pressure regulator... those sound like good possibilities to me....

have you checked your timing? i am no expert on this motors but i do tinker with them quit often, and it sounds to me like a sensor problem, but then again if your fuel filter is almost plugged or your pressure reg isn't pumping out enough fuel then it would seam likely thats exactly what would happen
 
new fuel filter already, thinking the return lines to tank maybe clogged.
No time to mess with it today, will try to look at codes and check lines
 
Ya know that brings up an interesting question.

fords and newer chevys have ports where you can screw in a pressure tester into the fuel rail.

How does one actually test the fuel pressure on a 22RE?

I only know how to test if there is pressure. I crack the line to the cold start injector if it squirts it has pressure.:eeek: But how much who knows?
 
Ya know that brings up an interesting question.

fords and newer chevys have ports where you can screw in a pressure tester into the fuel rail.

How does one actually test the fuel pressure on a 22RE?

I only know how to test if there is pressure. I crack the line to the cold start injector if it squirts it has pressure.:eeek: But how much who knows?

I have an adapter that uses the cold start injector feed line to get a fuel pressure tap. I also use that tool for doing a high presure injector clean.
 
Ya know that brings up an interesting question.

fords and newer chevys have ports where you can screw in a pressure tester into the fuel rail.

How does one actually test the fuel pressure on a 22RE?

I only know how to test if there is pressure. I crack the line to the cold start injector if it squirts it has pressure.:eeek: But how much who knows?

ya thats usually how i check for fuel pressure to:redneck:

but to check it with a gauge you unhook the cold start injector from the hardline and hook the pressure tester up to that hard line, i cant recall the specific range at the moment but a chiltons or hayes would have that sort of info
 
pressure regulator diaphram

just did a motor swap on a 4 runner last month everything new but intake had that problem for 2/3 days same symptoms wasted a lot of time trying this and that on the back of the fuel rail that diaphram is by the pass. side fire wall when they run dry and sit ruins it they are not cheap thinking $100.Ive rebuilt about 30 22r in the past 6 yrs, not saying i no everything learn something new each time good luck !:mad:
 
i was also told that if the pressure regulator is not properly clocked so to speak then they don't opperate properly either
 
Ya know that brings up an interesting question.

fords and newer chevys have ports where you can screw in a pressure tester into the fuel rail.

How does one actually test the fuel pressure on a 22RE?

I only know how to test if there is pressure. I crack the line to the cold start injector if it squirts it has pressure.:eeek: But how much who knows?
ive used an adapater that goes on at the filter. its sort of a pain to hook up tho.
 
Pulled the return line from rail and flowed like a fire hose. What if we got away from the fuel end and thought electrical? When it quits running it is a flat smooth cut off, no sputtering and the same when it returns to running at the lower RPM. One other thing, when it is cold, it rev's to about 3k without cutting out then just before full engine temp it starts to cut out at 2k. Just about the same rpm's every time. Any ideas with the new symptom.
 
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