2rz-fe swap

Nuzzy · Jun 23, 2008

Really nice clean work Mike.

crash2 · Jun 24, 2008

Ok I got the mounts removed from the frame on both sides--and even removed the fuel line(I have a plan already for this :; )

So I dug around the rig and found the mounting hardware/brackets for the t-case mount and of course---I had had modify the mounts--they were too plain

So I got the brackets tacked to the frame

So for now I am going to leave the t-case mount till I get the motor where I want it--then I will have to re-position the t-case brackets and burn them baby's in

crash2 · Jun 24, 2008

Ok--so now with the t-case mounts tacked into place the motor will stay in place (side to side tilt)... So I sat and thought about how I wanted to do the mounts. I was origionally going to cut all the mounts off the frame and do the style like I do my 4.3's--but the risers off the frame where the engine mounts sat--the shock hoop supports were also tied into that. So I went out in the back yard to the pen where I keep my midgets--and did some midget tossing till the idea popped in my head

So here are a bunch of pics of how I did them and they turned out perfect and should offer alot of years of being beat on..

Here are the base plates I made

crash2 · Jun 24, 2008

Here is the passenger motor mount. I am going to have to get a 45 degree fitting for the oil pressure switch--the mount will rub very ahrd against the connector. I also removed the oil filter adapter due to the new motor mount rests agaiant it--I will have to clearance the mount once I pull the motor out--easy fix

crash2 · Jun 24, 2008

And here is the drivers side--kinda tight to work down in that hole--but I am a skinny lil fawker

So now the motor is sitting on its own. I ended up dropping the hight 1 1/4" and 1/8" to the passenger side due to the amount of room from the intake to the brake booster.

So now with the engine where it belongs--I can hop back to the t-case and get that finished up next

crash2 · Jun 24, 2008

Nuzzy said:
Really nice clean work Mike.

Spanks nuzz masta'

crash2 · Jun 27, 2008

Ok well after a rescue tonight I was still able to get the t-case mount DONE!!!! Oh and I used the new bolts too,lol...

Driver side

Passenger side. I went and lopped a portion of the e-brake cable mount off and remounted that to the frame so rome's e-brake will still function.

I had to grind out a couple holes to get the skip plate mounted--but not a big deal

JThompson · Jun 28, 2008

Me likey. I have been looking into this somewhat secretly for a year or two now.... It sure looks like the tranny/t-case(s) assembly is longer than the regular 4 cyl stuff? Anyway, keep knocking those midgets around, good things will come of it!
How hard is it to find the turbo trannies? Seems like a task to me. I have a free V6 tranny sitting in my garage. I could just use that in place of the R151, just would have to purchase the R150 to gear t-case adapter, I guess.

Trailtoy1993 · Jun 28, 2008

JThompson said:
Me likey. I have been looking into this somewhat secretly for a year or two now.... It sure looks like the tranny/t-case(s) assembly is longer than the regular 4 cyl stuff? Anyway, keep knocking those midgets around, good things will come of it!
How hard is it to find the turbo trannies? Seems like a task to me. I have a free V6 tranny sitting in my garage. I could just use that in place of the R151, just would have to purchase the R150 to gear t-case adapter, I guess.

Got one, want it?

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

So I made some progress today and made my goal..

So I went and pulled the motor to get all the finish work done.....

So for the problem with the oil pressure sender--I just went and tapped the block out to standard 1/8" pipe thread. And for those who haven't done this its EXTREEMLY important to not get any shavings in the oil galley--and to do this make sure to coat the tap grooves with grease--and only go 1 full turn before removing the tap and repeating the process..

So once tapped I used a 45 degree fitting..

I also clearanced the new motor mount to the oil filter adapter and inhailed some good paint fumes....

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

So I went to the drivers side of the motor and inhailed some more paint fumes---damn midgets are watching me..........

I got the alt wire finished--it goes over to the starter as a junctrion..

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

So the next thing I wanted to handle since the motor was out and had more room--getting the hydro clutch setup...

Well the only clutch fork I had was the one off his old v6 tranny--at the same time I figured I would use the clutch slave off the same tranny.

Well the V6 clitch fork dives down once it goes thru the bellhousing and the offset of the slave caused the slave rod to be at too much of an angle. At this point I figured I would dig thru my large stash of parts to look for some other forks and could not find any---crap (fawkin midgets are hiding **** again on me--lil fawkers,lol)..

Now one bonus of using this clutch fork is the fact it dives down--and helps with keeping it away from the body. So I figured I would throw the slave that was on the tranny rome brought and it was a perfect match to the fork.

So once I got that squared away---I went and bent up new hardline for the clutch and resused his soft line and worked like a champ..

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

And now the tranny is ready..... I also found the taco's inner diameter on the throw out bearing is a tad larger--so I had to use the throw out bearing that was sitting on the new tranny(felt good)

And there the motor is all ready to drop in..

And that lil fawker sure put up a fight to go onto the tranny--and mainly due to the fact I could not get the right tilt on the motor---should have pulled my good chain off the motor for the flatty--teach me,lol

Also once the motor was in--I decided to go ahead and bleed the clutch--no leaks and feels pretty good...

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

So the next thing to tackle was the high pressure power steering hose..

Now with the funky bend there was no way to use it "as is".

So I decided to go ahead and cut/flair it--this is when I found the hard line portion of the hose is different from the early toys. The line is very thick(should have grabbed a caliper to measure it) and no way are you going to get a double flair out of it--and in stock form its only a single flair anyways......

So I went ahead and cut the line(don't try to use a tubing cutter,lol)..

And used my fancy hydro tool to flair it..

And here is how it turned out

The flair got a lil cocked to one side--so I am not sure how well its going to seal and will have to wait to get the rig running to find out. Plus I gotta get a small cooler for the system....

London Gentleman · Jun 30, 2008

Trailtoy1993 said:
Got one, want it?

I believe the question is, how much? :awesomework:

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

So this morning I decided to grab the 2rz ecm since at a first glance a while back it looked different from the one I ripped out of the truck---but it must have been due to the brackets...

Here is the orig and new ecm's

The controller sizes are IDENTICAL, the holes for the brackets are a lil different---but for this aplication the brackets all fit the holes--and even how the connector placement is--they are IDENTICAL.. So basicly the 2rz ecm will look no different than the origional once bolted down..

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

I got the ground cables all done and the main power feed to the starter started...

crash2 · Jun 30, 2008

The next thing I wanted to tackle--was the fuel feed side of things..

What is it with the metric threads for the fuel system? Every tank I have pulled its been an UPRIGHT battle to get the rubber hose off of either the sender or the fuel line. This one faught me--granted I was trying to do it with minimal room/tank in but damn. I finally cut the line and put a 6 point socket on it and used my 3/8's impact--got the fawker,lol..

But in any case I ran all new hardline(5/16) from the tank to the motor.. Only thing I need to finish it off are 2 barbed ends for the 1/4" rubber hose(return)

Here is how it turned out..