4 link Bars

crawler1 · Jul 12, 2009

I have seen several buggy's with Octagon shaped 4 link bars . Were can i buy this material to make my own bars , or were can i have them made at .

What is the strongest and lightest bars i can run . I am running 2'' 3/8 thick 4 link bars know , and still have a problem with bending or tweaking them , any good suggestion would be a help for my new tube buggy .

BamaTJ · Jul 12, 2009

That is 7075 aluminum that has been machined. Not cheap

crawler1 · Jul 12, 2009

So there not a steel chromed bar then ? Do you know what size of bar it is ? Were can i get weld in bungs for this , Or will i have to thread the bar ?

BamaTJ · Jul 12, 2009

If you are referring to the stuff on Coleworx rigs it is just polished 7075 AL that has been machined. Not sure on the size, I have seen as big as 2.5" OD. Most run 2" or 1.75". It is solid so you have to drill and tap for heims. It is really nice stuff, price is pretty steep also. I have $800-900 in 8 links and a tie rod and I went with smaller material. Branik Motorsports does a lot of AL links, you may call them and tell them what you want. You can still bend it (I have a bent lower), but it is a lot lighter than steel, especially 3/8" wall that you have

crawler1 · Jul 12, 2009

The price does not sound to bad . I am looking to try to save some weight on my new rig .

Have you had any problems with ripping the threads out of the aluminum , or are you using any kind of steel threads , kinda like a heila coil inserted around the threads ?

Cole · Jul 12, 2009

You can't get the stuff like Bryan and them run anymore. They quit making it because it cost so much to make it.
I have $1,100 in my links. 2.25 lowers and 2" uppers. All taped for 1.25 heims and notched so you can get a wrench on them. Well worth the price. You aren't going to rip the threads out of them.

crawler1 · Jul 12, 2009

Cole said:
You can't get the stuff like Bryan and them run anymore. They quit making it because it cost so much to make it.
I have $1,100 in my links. 2.25 lowers and 2" uppers. All taped for 1.25 heims and notched so you can get a wrench on them. Well worth the price. You aren't going to rip the threads out of them.

So your link bars on your green buggy are 7075 aluminum , or another hardness ?

Cole · Jul 12, 2009

crawler1 said:
So your link bars on your green buggy are 7075 aluminum , or another hardness ?

There 7075

crawler1 · Jul 13, 2009

i found some 7075 T-651 bar is this it ?

blacksheep10 · Jul 13, 2009

yes, 7075 t651 is exactly what you want.
In Jan it was like $18 a foot my cost, now its mid 20's per foot. **** went up. Haven't checked in a couple months though.
Branik does a great job with it.

crawler1 · Jul 13, 2009

i done some calling around on it today , and the cheapest i could find it for was $ 31.60 .but i am also looking at using 2 3/4 round stock I didn't really think that was to bad until i just read what you paid .. They are trying to stick it to me :wtflol:

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blacksheep10 · Jul 13, 2009

Na, my quote was 2" before drill and tap. you are not getting ****ed. Just saying my cost which is a bit down the food chain. It is by the pound, so as your OD goes up on round stock, the weight goes up exponentially. I can't imagine anyone ever needing more than 2.5"......ever. Seriously, most racers run 1.75, bigger rigs 2", rigs that will get seriously abused 2.25, and 2.5 is for poeple with links that are 4' long on a heavy ass rockwell rig. 2.75 is too much unless its only another $100.

crawler1 · Jul 13, 2009

all my links on my new ride are 40'' - 48'' long . That is why I'm looking at the bigger bars .

blacksheep10 · Jul 13, 2009

Unless you're over 6K or something I still feel that 2.5" will do it, again, unless the extra 1/4" is only a hundy or so

crawler1 · Jul 13, 2009

My existing Ride weight 5450 pounds . Id like to have my new ride around 4000 lbs is what I'm shooting for . I figured the 2 3/4 would be a nice size by the time i shave it down to a octagon shape . This way there would be a nice size still left .. But from what you Guys are telling me is that this is super strong , and really light . So i might try the smaller stuff for know , and if i destroy it i will got to the big stuff .

bjeep · Jul 14, 2009

crawler1 said:
My existing Ride weight 5450 pounds . Id like to have my new ride around 4000 lbs is what I'm shooting for . I figured the 2 3/4 would be a nice size by the time i shave it down to a octagon shape . This way there would be a nice size still left .. But from what you Guys are telling me is that this is super strong , and really light . So i might try the smaller stuff for know , and if i destroy it i will got to the big stuff .

Why not just buy 2" or 2.5" hex 7075? May cost a little more but will take less time and probably look better. Just my .02

BamaTJ · Jul 14, 2009

Why do you have to have hex? Just use round and put some wrench flats on the ends and it will be fine.

Welderd · Jul 14, 2009

square is stronger than round in bending

blacksheep10 · Jul 14, 2009

travis, what about round with the same od as the cross measurement, like 2" across the corners is 2.828. who wins then? I would have to say round by far. Granted that is a lot more weight and expense, just curious.

millerxc · Jul 14, 2009

I got a question, I was thinking about using 7075 for my rear lowers they are 4' long and I know they will eventually get bent , but after they are bent how hard would it be to straighten them out or would that be bad to even try?? I know alum likes to crack when it bends.