51" Toyota rears in a 1st Gen?

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

So I searched and I can't find anybody that has done this.

Been trying to find some cheap ways to use a longer spring in the rear of my 81, and I thought to myself, why have I never heard of this? There are plenty of guys using them in the front for an even longer RUF combination, but is there any reason they wouldn't work in the rear to get a longer spring?

I don't even know what the 3rd gens center to end dimensions are, only that they are longer over all.

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2010

All the extra length is on the shackle end. Might look into later taco rears, I think they are 56" with a centered pin.

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

I think I would be ok with the extra length all being on the shackle end. That would give me more of a shackle angle at ride height equaling more droop? I'm aiming for a lot more droop than compression travel so I'm thinking it would work?

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2010

I've seen it done that way but it takes a really long shackle to make it work and it still lays rather flat. The problem with that is the shackle being at a 15*ish angle and long will let the back of the truck wag its tail driving down the road.

I'd move the hanger back 2" and run a reasonable length shackle. It'd still be pretty flat for droop but stable at the same time.

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

Reasonable length being in the 5-5.5" area?

dove'd85 · Feb 16, 2010

wentz912 said:
Reasonable length being in the 5-5.5" area?

x2 on moving the shackle hangers back and yes 5 or 5.5 in bolt to bolt is reasonable

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

Excellent. I will get some new hangers and shackles fabbed up asap. Already have the materials for the hanger, just need some strip and bolts for the shackles.

Anybody know if the 2wd third gens use the same 51" springs except higher arch and lower spring rate since those trucks are, I'm assuming, spring under? Looking to get a little lift to match my marlin 5" fronts that I will be using.

zukkev · Feb 16, 2010

I've also seen this done, but when the rig flexes out, it 'looks' goofy--as in the tire 'walks' way forward in the wheelwell when it drops out, kinda like a TJ, or ZJ with a tall short arm kit...If you can find a center-pinned set of longer leaves, and redo the front spring mounts, I think it'd be a better way to go...Just my .02!!!

CHOP SHOP · Feb 16, 2010

wentz912 said:
Looking to get a little lift to match my marlin 5" fronts that I will be using.

you gonna have a little gangsta lean goin on.

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

Zukkev- Could I flip the 51s and move my front spring hanger instead of the shackle hanger to get a better result?

Chop Shop- How do you mean, lean? As in a nose high stance? I'm already there and it seems to work ok. I understand that I am going to have to play musical leaves with the rears in order to get them to match up to the marlin's height wise.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 16, 2010

wentz912 said:
Zukkev- Could I flip the 51s and move my front spring hanger instead of the shackle hanger to get a better result?

Chop Shop- How do you mean, lean? As in a nose high stance? I'm already there and it seems to work ok. I understand that I am going to have to play musical leaves with the rears in order to get them to match up to the marlin's height wise.

Flipping it will cause all kinds of headache. I agree with kev, if you are moving mounts than just hang some chevy rears.

I think the advantage to running a toyota rear is it is pretty flat and flexes well in both directions. If you stack up leaves trying to stiffen up a weak spring it will never be as tall as the 5 inchers and not work well or last long if you stack too much crap in there.

Just hang a pair of three leaf chevy 63 inch rears with a 2 inch block and it will sit good and work well too.

I have 63 inch chevs for $100, $150 with bolts and hangers. Much better option.:beer:

dove'd85 · Feb 16, 2010

chevy 63's

uke: if nothing else get some waggy 5 or 7 leaf rear springs

zukkev · Feb 16, 2010

I think your best option would be to find some center-pinned springs, any of the options listed above, although blocks aren't the best option imho, they do work....No, I wouldn't flip them around to have the long end forward, cuz you'll have to move the front hangers to get the axle centered in the well....If you're gonna do this (build front mounts), I'd buck up for a set of 4" TG's, or Marlins and be done....I might actually know of a set of 4" springs for sale, but you'll have to still build front spring mounts...

Mark m. · Feb 16, 2010

I've got 54" waggys and moved the front mount and run the long end of the spring forward. Works great for me.

graysquirrel · Feb 16, 2010

I run the 51" in my 1st gen. I left the front mount where it was, moved the rear shackle mount a few inches back, few inches of blocks and run the spring backwards (long side forward) and my truck flexes VERY well. And the ride is really smooth also. Just another suggestion:awesomework:

wentz912 · Feb 16, 2010

CHOP SHOP said:
Flipping it will cause all kinds of headache. I agree with kev, if you are moving mounts than just hang some chevy rears.

I think the advantage to running a toyota rear is it is pretty flat and flexes well in both directions. If you stack up leaves trying to stiffen up a weak spring it will never be as tall as the 5 inchers and not work well or last long if you stack too much crap in there.

Just hang a pair of three leaf chevy 63 inch rears with a 2 inch block and it will sit good and work well too.

I have 63 inch chevs for $100, $150 with bolts and hangers. Much better option.:beer:

I was only trying to use the marlins because I'm into them right money wise, maybe I will just hock them for shock money and go RUF and 51s in the rear. Would this option make sense brad?

zukkev said:
If you're gonna do this (build front mounts), I'd buck up for a set of 4" TG's, or Marlins and be done....I might actually know of a set of 4" springs for sale, but you'll have to still build front spring mounts...

Who has them and for how much?

Mark m. said:
I've got 54" waggys and moved the front mount and run the long end of the spring forward. Works great for me.

Any pictures of this set up in action mark?

graysquirrel said:
I run the 51" in my 1st gen. I left the front mount where it was, moved the rear shackle mount a few inches back, few inches of blocks and run the spring backwards (long side forward) and my truck flexes VERY well. And the ride is really smooth also. Just another suggestion:awesomework:

is that why it looks like the axle is back of center in the wheel well in your avatar? more pictures of your set up?

Mark m. · Feb 17, 2010

It did move my axle back about 2" We did the same on money marks toyota.

graysquirrel · Feb 17, 2010

Ill try and dig up some pics or take some. And yes the rear is farther back than stock position. But i love the longer wheelbase, it wheels alot better than shorter wheelbase.

wentz912 · Feb 17, 2010

Thanks mark and squirrel. maybe I will see if i can rustle up some wagoneer springs...

SO MANY OPTIONS!

wentz912 · Feb 18, 2010

so the marlin springs have been sold. Looking to go with stock rears up front. Can I make the 51" rears in my truck end up matching? I've got some 3" lift packs, 2 sets of fronts and one set of rears, to play the mix and match game with. Looking at buiilding a drop/forward front spring hanger and move rear shackle hanger back to accomodate, along with 5" shackles front and rear.

Are t he benefits of moving the pivot point of the rear shackle above the frame worth the work involved? I've seen it done a couple times now, and it seems to make sense since you can use an ober long shackle to gain the benefits of the longer swing arc without throwing your departure angle to **** and keeping it low.