Alright I am trying to make a decision between the 8.8 and a Dana 44. The axle that I am swapping out will be in a TJ with 35's and it will have an ARB in it. I've heard some discussion either way and thought I would throw it out to get some more insight before making a decision.
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8.8 vs. Dana 44
- Thread starter Jaydog
- Start date
Well I have a 8.8 down side is it's c-clipped, plus side is it has disc brakes. Another down side is the axle tubes can spin, but thats a simple fix, just weld the tubes.
D44, might be kinda hard to find one with disc brakes. The 8.8 is slighter stronger. But the 44 isn't c-clipped.
D44, might be kinda hard to find one with disc brakes. The 8.8 is slighter stronger. But the 44 isn't c-clipped.
8.8 axle tubes are a hair thicker and bigger, d44 you can adapt zj al44 disc to the pretty easy or get teraflex disc conversion, d 44 isn't c clipped makes a broken shaft easier to replace. and 8.8 are a little narrower so wheel spacers are needed to make the front and rear the same width. also 8.8 need yoke adaptor for the driveshaft to work with it, also d44's you can get cheaper than a 8.8 or well about the same if u can get a d44 for 50-100 and then go with teraflex disc you would be about the price of a 8.8. eigther need all new brackets you will get a little more lift when doing a 8.8 because of the larger tubes as stated before. I run XJ d44 rear and waggy 44 front with alloys but alot of my buddies run 8.8's and love them. its up to you, you've heard my .02
K
Kelly
Guest
You can't go wrong either way, my 8.8 held up to a V-8, 35's, and a minispool.....
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
As stated before the 8.8 is slightly stronger and has bigger tubes. However it's a c-clip and you have to get the yoke adapter. You do get disc brakes though. The axle is 1 and 1/2 inches narrower on a TJ, but I don't have any problems, if you did, you could get wheel spacers.
On a TJ, you will get about another inch of lift in the rear because of the bigger tubes. On mine, I welded the tubes and also did a truss. I have 33's now but plan on going up to 35's. It's held up so far with 456's and a detroit.
Another downside, is the explorer has 2 different sized shafts, so if you bring spares, you have to carry 2.
If you run an ARB, you will NEED to do a truss to keep the housing from flexing. That will keep your locker happy.
PM me and I can send you some pics of mine after I spray half of the mud from the Busywild off of it.
On a TJ, you will get about another inch of lift in the rear because of the bigger tubes. On mine, I welded the tubes and also did a truss. I have 33's now but plan on going up to 35's. It's held up so far with 456's and a detroit.
Another downside, is the explorer has 2 different sized shafts, so if you bring spares, you have to carry 2.
If you run an ARB, you will NEED to do a truss to keep the housing from flexing. That will keep your locker happy.
PM me and I can send you some pics of mine after I spray half of the mud from the Busywild off of it.
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Keep in mind the lowest gears you can run at 4.88's so if you want to go lower then go with the D44. Also there are more after market to upgrade a D44 then the 8.8. Make sure you get the 31spline axle 8.8.
On that note I have an 8.8 with ARB and I am running TSL's 39.5 and it seems to be holding up but I have a D60 in the works. I bought the 8.8 for next to nothing and picked up a rebuilt ARB from ARBUSA for a way good price and I am running 31SP axles.
On that note I have an 8.8 with ARB and I am running TSL's 39.5 and it seems to be holding up but I have a D60 in the works. I bought the 8.8 for next to nothing and picked up a rebuilt ARB from ARBUSA for a way good price and I am running 31SP axles.
As far as the yoke adapter, I dont htink thats a necessary thing to do. I believe Amanda is running the stock FORD yoke flange. I personally have changed mine to a 1330 yoke. It's really easy to change it. 1 bolt.
The length issue is also another easy fix. I added a 1.75" spacer to the passenger side of my 8.8, moved the axle over to center it, (this also aligned the pinion inline with the T-case output) then welded new leaf perches on the axle. And now its golden. I'm not to sure about 4.88"s being the lowest you cango, I'll look around on the net for more info. But I believe you can go as low as 5.29 or something.
The length issue is also another easy fix. I added a 1.75" spacer to the passenger side of my 8.8, moved the axle over to center it, (this also aligned the pinion inline with the T-case output) then welded new leaf perches on the axle. And now its golden. I'm not to sure about 4.88"s being the lowest you cango, I'll look around on the net for more info. But I believe you can go as low as 5.29 or something.
GaryTJ
Well-Known Member
and most of the race shops have c-clip eliminators for the 8.8.
Hmm I am seeing lower gears... I wonder if it is my specific axle... I tried to run lower and there was nothing available at the time.
YG F8.8-456 8.8" FORD 4.56 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 4.56
YG F8.8-488 8.8" FORD 4.88 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 4.88
YG F8.8-513 8.8" FORD 5.13 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 5.13
YG F8.8-571 8.8" FORD 5.71 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 5.71
YG F8.8-614 8.8" FORD 6.14 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 6.14
YG F8.8R-331R 8.8" FORD 3.31 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.31
YG F8.8R-355R 8.8" FORD 3.55 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.55
YG F8.8R-373R 8.8" FORD 3.73 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.73
YG F8.8R-411R 8.8" FORD 4.10 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.10
YG F8.8R-456R 8.8" FORD 4.56 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.56
YG F8.8R-488R 8.8" FORD 4.88 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.88
I have heard that the c-clip elim kit has a bearing that is very narrow and with all the side loads that 4x4ing exerts the bearing does not hold up.
YG F8.8-456 8.8" FORD 4.56 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 4.56
YG F8.8-488 8.8" FORD 4.88 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 4.88
YG F8.8-513 8.8" FORD 5.13 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 5.13
YG F8.8-571 8.8" FORD 5.71 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 5.71
YG F8.8-614 8.8" FORD 6.14 R&P (NEEDS_NTCHED_X-PIN) Ford 8.8 6.14
YG F8.8R-331R 8.8" FORD 3.31 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.31
YG F8.8R-355R 8.8" FORD 3.55 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.55
YG F8.8R-373R 8.8" FORD 3.73 REV R&P Ford 8.8 3.73
YG F8.8R-411R 8.8" FORD 4.10 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.10
YG F8.8R-456R 8.8" FORD 4.56 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.56
YG F8.8R-488R 8.8" FORD 4.88 REV R&P Ford 8.8 4.88
I have heard that the c-clip elim kit has a bearing that is very narrow and with all the side loads that 4x4ing exerts the bearing does not hold up.
Yea, c-clips are a downside, but I shouldn't have any breakage with the stock 4.0, then again sometimes I do get a little liberal on the skinny pedal.
Thank you all for the input, it has given me a little more to chew on.
Thank you all for the input, it has given me a little more to chew on.
K
Kelly
Guest
boxboy said:
I've been told that too.
GaryTJ
Well-Known Member
That does not sound right as the c-clip eliminator was made for circle track racing to meet Nascar rules of no c-clips. I would think circle track would be a lot harder on the bearings.
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
I don't know the exact reasons, but the C-clip eliminator kits on the market are designed for drag racing, etc. and specifically say they're no designed for the side loads a 4x4 sees.
Yes, the 8.8 is a c-clip axle. I've done lots of research and asking for pics of breakage, and have YET to find one that broke AT THE CLIP. Most of the broken shafts I've seen have been in V8 rigs, with big tires (38"+), etc. You're either going to spend big money to buy a D44 OUT of a TJ, or spend some time/money, etc. to get all of the brackets put on the D44 if you're getting like an XJ one for example, or to put the brackets on an 8.8. I've done a dozen or so 8.8 installs in XJ's, YJ's, ZJ, TJ, etc. and all have been very happy. I've run one in my rig for over 5 years /w very good results. Like stated above, weld the tubes and you'll be fine.
My $.02.
PS, I also normally stock a few 8.8's complete. You're in Edgewood, I am in Milton... you're welcome to come and check out my rig, or stop by for a beer and BS session.
John
Yes, the 8.8 is a c-clip axle. I've done lots of research and asking for pics of breakage, and have YET to find one that broke AT THE CLIP. Most of the broken shafts I've seen have been in V8 rigs, with big tires (38"+), etc. You're either going to spend big money to buy a D44 OUT of a TJ, or spend some time/money, etc. to get all of the brackets put on the D44 if you're getting like an XJ one for example, or to put the brackets on an 8.8. I've done a dozen or so 8.8 installs in XJ's, YJ's, ZJ, TJ, etc. and all have been very happy. I've run one in my rig for over 5 years /w very good results. Like stated above, weld the tubes and you'll be fine.
My $.02.
PS, I also normally stock a few 8.8's complete. You're in Edgewood, I am in Milton... you're welcome to come and check out my rig, or stop by for a beer and BS session.
John
junkyard jim
Well-Known Member
My question is this: Is the 8.8 higher friction than a D44? I hear people swapping them (mostly with D35s, but some D44s as well) and fuel economy drops sharply. Even with the same ratio.
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
junkyard jim said:
I have YET to hear that complaint, Jim. I've swapped LOTS of these and haven't heard it. I've done lots of research and have never seen that topic come up.
J
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
boxboy said:
I did one 2 weeks ago for a guy with 5.13's so yes they are finally getting off there butts and produing lower gears..
