AllGoNoShow
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 551
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You are an artist, nice work.
Yep, the windshield, and doorsThe Luke said:Is there a cover or something for the fuse block? I feel like fuses aimed upwards and not covered + mud/rain/dew= PITA. I'm sure you have some kind of crazy elaborate, 19 piece, water shield for it though.
Thank youAllGoNoShow said:You are an artist, nice work.
mcutler said:Yep, the windshield, and doors
;)
Right on! I'm a sucker for ease of access for trouble shooting wiring issues. I have always kept fuses exposed for that reason.The Luke said:Yea, I'm definitely not used to people installing windshields around here.... That's too logical. :****:
Shouldn't of said that. Now he is going to have to make a new cluster. laughing1fabricator1 said:Looking good! With you, I was expecting a bead rolled around every gauge
They're will likely be a little of both. I have a really good friend who always assists with the wiring; he has 20 years of automotive and audio custom wiring experience. He is a solder- heat shrink kinda dude. Im a little lax with solder, but I love all the new butts and terminals that crimp/solder/ heat shrink, be it they cost $1 a piece. My strength is wiring management. I'll have a few pics later today.5BrothersFabrication said:Are you soldering and heat shrinking or just using heat shrink butt connectors? Seems like a fella with your patience is going to wire for the long term. I'd have to do something I haven't done in 13 years and burn one to have that kind of concentration. :smoke: :****: Bravo, sir. Bravo.
mcutler said:Burning that midnight oil and ****...
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Matt
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I'll get that tonightThe Luke said:Hey, can you post a pic of how you did your latches for your tube doors or whatever that little catch is for? I'm making a set for the jeep and am looking for inspiration. It's a very good possibility that you already posted that. But, I think it's lost somewhere in the awesomeness
37° flare for -AN/JIC. Tube sleeve and nut with couplers or bulkhead couplers. Stainless tubing is 3/8 .035 wall, Ni/Cu line is 3/16.d9marko said:Swagloc fittings?
Hey thanks Greg! I really appreciate those words. I'm glad folks are enjoying this, because I enjoy doing it and sharing. I'm getting really excited for next week to finally load up and wheel again...2 years is too long.CHASMAN9 said:I can't hold my peace anymore. I have pretty well followed this build from the beginning with extreme speculation as I thought it was "just another build" but I am glued to the screen on how great of a build this has become. Matt, your attention to detail is amazing and truly a work of art. You continue to keep me coming back for more and more and it really pisses me off when I go and look at my junk. molaugh Keep up the excellent work and I will continue to drool over this build. Great job. :dblthumb:
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mcutler said:I'm getting really excited for next week to finally load up and wheel again...2 years is too long.
Copied from my pirate threadwhiskeymakin said:Is there any advantage to running the hard lines?
much of what is said below.waterhorse;41895649 said:I'm a little courious about your choice to use hard lines for the steering. Don't get me wrong, they look totally fantastic. I would assume a hard line is less likely to leak compared to a hose. But looking at my hydro-steer and there very few connections that can be completely hard line. (Because of engine or axle movement) So you have to go to hose anyways. (With more joints) Has it been your experience that running less hose outweighs the increase in connections?
definitely my order of reason;whitneyj;41895857 said:There are lots of benefits to using conduit versus hose:
1) longevity
2) heat displacement
3) pegs the bling gauge
4) lighter
5) cleaner routing
6) takes up less space
7) breaks the bling gauge
But I'm curious for the reason he did it :smokin:
For future thought, aside from at the orbital, they're quit movable for service once released from retainer clips, without loosening the joints.slravenel said:super clean! End is near...I know thats a good feeling
I thought long and hard about hard lines on my build, but ultimately decided that I would rather have the ease of moving lines for maintenance and adaptability on the run; but ill be damned if it doesnt look clean!
mcutler said:For future thought, aside from at the orbital, they're quit movable for service once released from retainer clips, without loosening the joints.
Thanks buddy!
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I totally understand!slravenel said:as luck would have it...i have had to remove my orbital lines twice now already laughing1
once on my shakedown run on the trails when I had a leak in a fitting and once in the shop when I was re-routing some stuff to a better spot.
Same reasoning behind my brake lines being soft coming out of the masters...for some reason, lining up those fittings with hard lines after a few times always ended up with ****ty looking out of place lines. So i just ran soft 10" lines out of the masters and problem solved! But I also wanted to make this buggy as easy to work on as I could in places where I could since its so tight everywhere else that half of the buggy has to come apart to do much work in behind the firewall laughing1