90's throw back....Manche build

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Yea, but do the windshield wipers work? Hmmm?

Yep, as well as washer fluid pump!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[The Luke]

Of course they do....

 

[Forbanger]

Of course they do....

molaugh I'm not sure if I get inspired, or aggravated watching this build!!!

 

[jwilson645]

The damn wiring is almost as beautiful as the metal work. >:( :****:

 

[Stretch]

Yep...glad I popped back in to check out this thread. Carry on :woot:

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

molaugh I'm not sure if I get inspired, or aggravated watching this build!!!

Thanks, I hope

The damn wiring is almost as beautiful as the metal work. >:( :****:

Thank you

Yep...glad I popped back in to check out this thread. Carry on :woot:

Hang around stretch... hoping to get real fun soon...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[mcutler]

Tidying up a few things, getting closer to cranking.

Putting some fire sleeve over pump line to orbital, and fire sleeve and reflective insulator over fuel line (to prevent vapor lock) around the engine.

You can also see the boots over the plugs and 1400° wire covering entire length of plug wires.

Leak testing the radiator and reservoirs, couple small pinholes to weld over.

Using the Bomber alternator relocation bracket for LS motors; it requires some clearancing of the back of the alternator. This bracket remains from the buggy, but I was using the premier power welder alternator then, the two on the left are stock cs130's (90 amp) thatt I pulled out of my core pile from work, the last on right is a Powermaster 140 amp; now have two spares in the camp box, as well as new spare Psc N-pump (and pulley), spare water pump (already tapped for AN fittings at heater ports, temp sender, and welded fitting for upper port), spare pillow block, spare idler, belt, driveshaft, spare low pinion Currie 9+ dropout third member 5.43 and spooled, 35 spline 300m stub shaft, and of course tires...

No pic, but I've also completed crankcase ventilation- both clean and dirty side- in the 3 sides and down fashion and vented to atmosphere.... therefore much less oil can get to the top of the valve covers or intake, in case of a rollover.

Matt


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[mcutler]

Oh, and the brakes are bled and leak free!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[mcutler]

More marks off the list...



Pillow block done, @tomwoodsdriveshafts cycled and clearing. No clearancing necessary on any 1350 yokes [emoji106].

More fire sleeving and heat shielding completed. Most of this shielding was repurposed... robbed off a super duty I just scrapped.

Crankcase ventilation hung and routed under the bridge, hidden by the reservoirs as well. Also notice the tubing for washer fluid...[emoji108]

New Powermaster 140 alternator and belt installed.

Matt


Note: 3/8 rubber fuel line makes an excellent abrasion resistant cover for 3/8 hardline...


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[fabricator1]

Looks good. Is there a slip in the driveshafts in front and behind the pillow block bearing? Just the set screw in the bearing keeps the driveshafts from all moving forward?

 

[CHASMAN9]

More marks off the list...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

This build still has me mesmerized, but still trying to get a grasp on how you will keep your foot from melting in your shoe. I know it will be spectacular whatever you do, just asking. :dunno:




ADMINISTRATOR

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Looks good. Is there a slip in the driveshafts in front and behind the pillow block bearing? Just the set screw in the bearing keeps the driveshafts from all moving forward?

Yes, slips on both ends. I've ran this exact setup for years in two previous rigs. Zero issues. Always carried a spare pillow block that I've never used. Never loosened a set screw. Key is good operating angles with sufficient spline engagement and frequent greasing, so that everything cycles correctly.

I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.

The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles.

This build still has me mesmerized, but still trying to get a grasp on how you will keep your foot from melting in your shoe. I know it will be spectacular whatever you do, just asking. :dunno:




ADMINISTRATOR

Fingers crossed; I'm hoping that the forward headers will be less heat concentrated there than traditional units. I've also got some more heat shielding robbed from said truck above that should aid. It's really hard to explain in type, without anyone personally seeing this space; pictures don't translate well in this tight area. I will have an inch or more of air gap on that outside tube - which will be wrapped, and have a secondary shield that clamps to the tube with its own air gap. Then if necessary, I still have that snazzy NASCAR interior heat pad that will take care of the rest of the heat transfer... I think...

That said, the heater will have no need to blow on our feet... it will mainly serve as a defroster.

Windshields and winter wheeling bring the suck without defrost...

Thanks guys!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[twostep]

So is the pillow block bolts welded in from the back side of the plate?

Maybe I missed it but what are the plans for the windshield? will it be OEM glass? if so will it be detachable?

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

So is the pillow block bolts welded in from the back side of the plate?

Maybe I missed it but what are the plans for the windshield? will it be OEM glass? if so will it be detachable?

Yes. It's 2" .120 rectangle tubing I cut down to a channel, welded from the bottom, then plated with .120. Can easily lift the block off the studs for service.

Factory glass, but using the later Cherokee with the rubber molding attached to the glass, rather than that crap aluminum trim. Standard urethane installation. I was a glass installer 20 years ago, and still have great relations with that employer; I can buy this glass for less than a c-note, installed at my shop.

Thought about speedglass, but with wipers, I was afraid it would eventually scratch beyond visibility. At this price I can buy these, I'll just use glass.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[CHASMAN9]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Yes, slips on both ends. I've ran this exact setup for years in two previous rigs. Zero issues. Always carried a spare pillow block that I've never used. Never loosened a set screw. Key is good operating angles with sufficient spline engagement and frequent greasing, so that everything cycles correctly.

I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.

The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles. Fingers crossed; I'm hoping that the forward headers will be less heat concentrated there than traditional units. I've also got some more heat shielding robbed from said truck above that should aid. It's really hard to explain in type, without anyone personally seeing this space; pictures don't translate well in this tight area. I will have an inch or more of air gap on that outside tube - which will be wrapped, and have a secondary shield that clamps to the tube with its own air gap. Then if necessary, I still have that snazzy NASCAR interior heat pad that will take care of the rest of the heat transfer... I think...

That said, the heater will have no need to blow on our feet... it will mainly serve as a defroster.

Windshields and winter wheeling bring the suck without defrost...

Thanks guys!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Have you ever used Lizardskin heat and sound proofing? I have in a different buggy and it made a big difference in my opinion. If the NASCAR stuff doesn't work completely, slap some of this on and see. :dunno:




ADMINISTRATOR

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Have you ever used Lizardskin heat and sound proofing? I have in a different buggy and it made a big difference in my opinion. If the NASCAR stuff doesn't work completely, slap some of this on and see. :dunno:




ADMINISTRATOR

Thanks. It will be an adventure to see what's going to be enough... or not...

Thanks for the tip.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[yeager_0339]

This has got to be one of the best build threads on here!

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

This has got to be one of the best build threads on here!

Thanks Yeager

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[mcutler]

Big hurdle on my list, because I think they are such a pain.... seats and harnesses are tabbed out, and ready to final weld!

Let the fun begin... time to panel the interior[emoji28]

Matt

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[bjeep]

Looking good. The dipstick will be hard to pull once the panels are in...... :rolf:

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Looking good. The dipstick will be hard to pull once the panels are in...... :rolf:

Yep, trans and oil dipstick. There will be a be a quick removable panel on both sides for access to those and spark plugs.

Every panel will be removable except rear center in front of fuel cell; too difficult to get out, due to having the heater and fire suppression mounted and plumbed from there.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[fabricator1]

I think we are all expecting lots of fancy bead rolling :tc

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

I think we are all expecting lots of fancy bead rolling :tc

Maybe a bead or two...

Rear wall is "cased" out, templates are made, ready for the panels.

Matt

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[5BrothersFabrication]

So is the cab permanently affixed to the chassis now? I think you could still skin a Luv on there... :stir:

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

So is the cab permanently affixed to the chassis now? I think you could still skin a Luv on there... :stir:

Lol, yes, it has been all along, since the first day it was sat on the subframe. But I've got another complete parts truck with panels that are straighter than these for the next time it needs a new skin.


If rather use the Subaru brat, or Volkswagen thing....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[mdo817]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Lol, yes, it has been all along, since the first day it was sat on the subframe. But I've got another complete parts truck with panels that are straighter than these for the next time it needs a new skin.


If rather use the Subaru brat, or Volkswagen thing....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

A VW thing would be awesome. :dblthumb:

 

[AllGoNoShow]

So you welded the cab onto the frame, then you chopped the top to finish weld the cage right? Did you have to brace the cab/top any when you cut off the top to finish weld?

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

So you welded the cab onto the frame, then you chopped the top to finish weld the cage right? Did you have to brace the cab/top any when you cut off the top to finish weld?

No. Had tubes going through the wiper cowl, and welded there and on A-pillar, which kept the lower half of the cab stable. No springing of the cab when I cut it away. Door margins are the same as before.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[jp fan]

So is the cab permanently affixed to the chassis now? I think you could still skin a Luv on there... :stir:

Do you know how far west a man would need to go to find a LUV body that would show this chassis the respect it would deserve :dunno:

 

[5BrothersFabrication]

Do you know how far west a man would need to go to find a LUV body that would show this chassis the respect it would deserve :dunno:

Go west young man...