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Aluminum vs Dom vs ? link bars

NTIDWELL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
629
Since a lot of y'all have been running al links for a while which holds up the best and why al links look the most bitching but are they worth the money I know there is all kinds of different topics on this but I'd like to hear from y'all that's been running them any jackass can copy and post numbers and say well by this chart this is stronger **** that which is best for the money
 

NTIDWELL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
629
Currently running 2"500 wall Dom wanting something stronger right at 44" long bars so would the 2.5 7075 hold up the best and who has the best prices on said links
 

JDodd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
198
Location
Murfreesboro
Call some machine shops in your area for probably the best price. With 2.5" 7075 it's probably going to be 800-900 after machining for 8 links
 

CCOR

706-559-9609
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
555
Location
Athens, GA
I'd say the 4130 Chromoly DOM which is HEAT Treated with 1.25" heims is the strongest setup out there. I know he offers them in 2" x 0.25" wall and it is the best link out there in my opinion.
www.hereticfab.com
Later,
Bobby
 

gomer pyle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2008
Messages
553
2" 6061 t6 will hold up unless you are a retard. I ran mine hard for 3 years and the rear bottom bars were only slightly bent
 

crawlin85cj

Barco Motorsports
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
857
Location
Forney, TX
Re: Aluminum vs Dom vs ? link bars

I run 1.75" 7075 uppers in my race buggy and 1.5" DOM uppers in my trail buggy. I bent a set of 1.75" .250 wall front uppers in my race buggy jumping the rocks at DPG last year and went back to 7075.

If youre not a lead foot retard with no concern for your own safety I think DOM uppers are more than adequate.
 

Elliott

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
2,430
If you go aluminum go with 7075 there is a world of difference between them and 6061, and your talking long lengths with the dimm you gave is there anyway you could shorten them some? The shorter the stronger!
 

NTIDWELL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
629
Elliott said:
If you go aluminum go with 7075 there is a world of difference between them and 6061, and your talking long lengths with the dimm you gave is there anyway you could shorten them some? The shorter the stronger!
For sure going with only 7075 pretty sure I'll go this way cause al links are flashemifyougotem thinking 2.5 lowers 2" uppers With 1x1 hiems so it should have enuff meat there to keep the sides from splitting on the threads
 

Bigrocks4x4

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Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Messages
286
Location
Iuka, Mississippi
gomer pyle said:
2" 6061 t6 will hold up unless you are a retard. I ran mine hard for 3 years and the rear bottom bars were only slightly bent

X2, 2" 6061 is plenty strong enough. Had em on my rockwell buggy with 450-500hp and 44"s. never had any problems ;D ;D
 

jmh78

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
264
Location
Sale Creek, TN
My rear lowers are right at 40" so I went with 2.5" 7075 front lowers are 35" so they are 2.25 and the uppers are 2" 7075. WOD was the best price I found.
 

Cole

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
1,494
7075 is the only way to go on the lowers. Been running 2.25 lowers and 2" uppers since my buggy was built and haven't replaced one yet and I pretty much hit a wall at 20+ mph and didn't budge the link.

Here is what happens to 6061
cdb50fca.jpg
 

ETO

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
369
Cole said:
7075 is the only way to go on the lowers. Been running 2.25 lowers and 2" uppers since my buggy was built and haven't replaced one yet and I pretty much hit a wall at 20+ mph and didn't budge the link.

Here is what happens to 6061
cdb50fca.jpg

In all fairness that's Scott's buggy and he could **** up an anvil with a freaking Q tip. :****: Man has mad skills at destroying ****. :flipper:
 

Elliott

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
2,430
Just for a reference it takes right at three times as long to cut a 2 1/4" 7075 as is does to cut 2" 6061.and the 7075 will squeal like a pig if you drill it to fast, freaking tough ****!! There is a big difference
 

crawlin85cj

Barco Motorsports
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
857
Location
Forney, TX
Re: Aluminum vs Dom vs ? link bars

Anything is gonna break, bend or get torn up with the right guy driving. All in all I've seen the best lifespan out of 7075. The only real problem I've had is keeping jam nuts tight. Now we soak em down with red loctite and I haven't really had an issue since. I would never use 6061, it's too soft. If you really wanna get fancy I think 7075 pressed into a DOM sleeve would be the best thing out there but getting it pressed in seems like it would be a bitch.
 

al1tonyota

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
2,999
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I have 2-1/2" 6061 lower rears they are really long and when I get to beating on it they bend up I just pull them off from time to time and press them back strait ? My uppers are 6061 2" 1-1/4 rod ends on all of them! Gonna eventually replace the lowers when I quit breaking everything else :****:
 

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