Anderson connectors in continuous duty?

[hokie_yj]

I'm looking for some opinions on using the Anderson SB350 connectors for continuous duty. With my transmission and t-case sitting right beside the seat they are covered by my interior panels.

I've already made the interior tube framework removable for access to the trans and t-case. The switch panel and gauge display will also have plugs for easy removal. The only obstacle really is the battery selector/cutoff switch mounted in one of the panels. The batteries (twin Odyssey 925s) are also mounted under the interior panels.

I'm thinking about using a couple of the Anderson connectors to disconnect the battery cables feeding and leaving the switch for easier removal. Anyone see a problem with doing this? I know it's adding a possible failure point. But everything I've read on the Anderson connectors has been pretty good, and I know they're used in continuous duty situations on forklifts/etc. daily. I feel like it will work just fine, but just wanted some more opinions.

Some pictures just for reference.

 

[hokie_yj]

The connectors I'm talking about

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb350-350amp

 

[Rokcrler]

Re:

Paging Ben (xrr)

 

[hokie_yj]

I am Ben. ;D

 

[paradisepwoffrd]

Re:

I think they'll be fine. As you mentioned, electric lifts use them on the batteries. They are also used for multimount winch setups without issue. I have some smaller ones on my atv winch, and while it isn't used a bunch, they have been there for years with never an issue.

I would just make sure i got some that are rated for much higher than you need. Make sure to get the correct crimper, and/or solder them.

 

[hokie_yj]

After reading over the link I posted I feel even better about it. I didn't realize they had the springs applying pressure to the connection. All of the cables will be 2/0 welding cable with the proper terminals, crimped with a hammer crimper, and covered with good adhesive heat shrink.

 

[1tonrenegade]

I've been using one for my second battery connection for years without any problems.

 

[hokie_yj]

That's good to hear. I think I'll go ahead and order what I need.

 

[Rokcrler]

Re: Re: Anderson connectors in continuous duty?

I am Ben. ;D

Haha, the other Ben

 

[Rokcrler]

Re:

I've used them for winch disconnects and jumper cables to the fixed side on the truck. They are solid

 

[XRR]

Ben it's Ben from XRR, LOL.. first nice looking setup. On the Anderson connectors there different amp ratings as I'm sure you know. Depending on how everything is connected an Anderson may or my not be the best solution, current dependent. If your winch is going through the switch I would first check the maximum amperage pull of your winch then add all your other max currents then multiply that by 1.2. If this along exceeds your main cut off switch current rating you need to consider a different main cut off or pulling the winch off that circuit and connect it directly to the battery.

I'm not sure if you are trying to follow a sanction rule book but most don't require the winch to be on the main cut off. Once you determine the max current of everything you'll be able to determine a rating for your Anderson connector. If I recall on the Andersons they're just a pushin type connector that don't have a "locking" mechanism, if I'm wrong I apologize. Where I'm going is if you're looking at a quick disconnect type connector you might consider one that locks. Off road vehicle encounter significant amount of force. If the Anderson aren't locking it could come disconnect easily because of the weight of the cables. Not sure if I answered your question but I personally would either use some type of hard mounted fixture or a locking one. I deal mostly in high vibration/high shock type vehicles on a daily basis and we rarely use the Andersons.

If you have any other questions or want to run something by my email is [email protected].

Thanks and good luck

Benjamin

 

[mac5005]

Ben it's Ben from XRR, LOL.. first nice looking setup. On the Anderson connectors there different amp ratings as I'm sure you know. Depending on how everything is connected an Anderson may or my not be the best solution, current dependent. If your winch is going through the switch I would first check the maximum amperage pull of your winch then add all your other max currents then multiply that by 1.2. If this along exceeds your main cut off switch current rating you need to consider a different main cut off or pulling the winch off that circuit and connect it directly to the battery.

I'm not sure if you are trying to follow a sanction rule book but most don't require the winch to be on the main cut off. Once you determine the max current of everything you'll be able to determine a rating for your Anderson connector. If I recall on the Andersons they're just a pushin type connector that don't have a "locking" mechanism, if I'm wrong I apologize. Where I'm going is if you're looking at a quick disconnect type connector you might consider one that locks. Off road vehicle encounter significant amount of force. If the Anderson aren't locking it could come disconnect easily because of the weight of the cables. Not sure if I answered your question but I personally would either use some type of hard mounted fixture or a locking one. I deal mostly in high vibration/high shock type vehicles on a daily basis and we rarely use the Andersons.

If you have any other questions or want to run something by my email is [email protected].

Thanks and good luck

Benjamin

What do you typically use then?

 

[hokie_yj]

The selector/cutoff switch is a Blue Sea 9001e, it is rated at 350a continuous, 600a intermittent (5 min.), and 1200a cranking (30 sec.). The 2/0 cable leaving the switch will be fused at 500a and feeding a large Blue Sea buss bar rated at 1000a. I'm planning to power the winch from that buss bar. The winch is a Warn XD9000 narrow drum, the max current draw on it is listed at 468 amps but that's at full load almost at a dead stall. On a small buggy weighing in the low 3k range (hopefully) it should never see that kind of current. Max current draw of everything else on the buggy should be no more than 150a or so.

The Anderson connectors don't have a physical lock, but the contacts have small tabs on them that seat together when they're plugged together. They also have a spring applying approx. 50 lbs of pressure on both sides of the contacts. I think a good cable tie wrapped around the connectors between the cables would be plenty to keep them from vibrating loose.

Cut-away pic of the connectors.
https://goo.gl/images/3y3Naw

I went ahead and ordered everything I need to make up two sets of plugs last night. I also found some nice looking aluminum mounting brackets for them on e-bay. They come from the UK, but shipping wasn't bad at all so I ordered a couple of them too.

 

[wizzo]

I use them on my buggy. No issues. Also, they don't come apart easily, so no worries there.

 

[hokie_yj]

Cool, good to know. I ordered a couple of the handles they have that mount to them to help disconnect them, but they look pretty huge. Hopefully it will be pretty rare that I have to disconnect then. I just want to be able to when the time comes.