F60 pin 16, +B, input, switched battery 12v+ input, this pin gets switched 12v+ from #2 EFI relay when this relay is energised. Note: EFI relay #2 is 35a and protected by 30a fuse. Relay is triggered by pin 10 M-REL
I'm going to call TweakdPerformance about their fuel pump controller. The OEM used a seperate Fuel Pump ECU to control output and at two different speeds, but Tweakd seems to have a simple/cheap/reliable controller that'll engage the pump circuit only when the engine is running/cranking and shuts off if the engine shuts off.
Here's a link to the info. It's really old so we'll see what they say. Just putting it here since it's overall function is important.
Hi guys, hope you've all been well. Sorry I've been MIA, we have been slammed here at the shop and I've had too much on my to-do list to drop by the forums very much. As many of you know the 2JZ ECU does not have a circuit to switch on the circuit opening (fuel pump) relay as it uses a separate...
Here's my source for ip67/ip68 waterproof power distribution modules. This 2JZ swap will probably get the GEP 24. I myself have 2 in my bug. A Littelfuse 18 for accessory circuits (soon to be GEP 48) and a GEP 3 iso relay module controlling both speeds of my Volvo fan using the LS ground switching outputs.
This is a great company for wiring stuff.
I called Tweakd and they said their fuel pump controller isn't compatible with the vvti motors, so this will get a Walbro style pump and the relay will be triggered by the ignition switch while in the run and crank position. I'll have to compare the 2JZ fuel pump pressure with the Walbro pressure/amperage curve chart, but I'm fairly certain I can use a 20a relay to switch it, which means I can indeed use the GEP 24 position box for everything.
Update: looks like the Walbro GS341 "255" is commonly used. In this app at 13.5v it'll use just 8amps at 43psi. So I'll be using a 20a 280 relay, 15a fuse and 10ga GXL wiring back to the pump to keep voltage loss at a minimum.
He already has an Eaton 15305-2 fuse/relay box. I have a love/hate relationship with this version since it's bussed but lacks terminal position locks, but we're probably going to go with it.
The fuse side is bussed which is a plus. The relay side is bussed too but it's at pin 86 (coil +). To compensate I'm going to flip the relays upside down so that pin 85 (coil -) is bussed and we can utilize positive switching, then I'll remove/black out all the identification marks so it doesn't appear upside down or cause confusion later down the road.
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