bad steering geometry?

[Dain Bramage]

was looking at my truck recently, and saw that my pitman arm puts my draglink TRE right above the tie rod, see photo, myah.

i also noted where the draglink TRE had been hitting the tie rod.

and the money shot: TRE contacting the tie rod.

obviously, this is bad. my question is, could this be contributing to my death wobble?

 

[Sursely]

:haha:

 

[Dain Bramage]

:redneck::fawkdancesmiley:

 

[lethe]

you wouldnt have that problem with stock steering setup:fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[1 grumpy]

:haha: Wow I'm suprised your not talking about that BIG crack by your steering box..:eeek:

 

[crash2]

Your rig was improperly setup....

 

[Poohbair]

just move your steering box forward... whats the problem?

 

[Dain Bramage]

:haha: Wow I'm suprised your not talking about that BIG crack by your steering box..:eeek:

what crack? theres no crack.

 

[Pat]

I have the same problem but less severe. What size is the tube? I'm gonna try 1.25x0.250 instead of 1.5x0.250 for a little more clearance. I doubt if that would be the cause of death wobble though.

 

[crash2]

I have the same problem but less severe. What size is the tube? I'm gonna try 1.25x0.250 instead of 1.5x0.250 for a little more clearance. I doubt if that would be the cause of death wobble though.

The saying I live by both on the trail and in the shop "overkill your steering" Don't down size your steering parts but rather try to re-work your steering box mounting...

 

[CHOP SHOP]

from the looks of the pic your tierods contact when you rubber snubber is only an inch or so from bottoming. very easy fix would be to lower/raise that snubber a little. your only going to lose a little travel. moving that box foward is alot of work compared to moving snubber or strike plate. core suport mount gets in the way when moving box foward unless you tip the input down and the front up to clear the cs mount. if you tip box down then the ragjoint flexes too much and needs to be upgraded to u joint with no ragjoint and the draglink will then hit your leaf spring if tiped down so then you need a flat pitman arm from sky or somebone else toget that tierod end closer to the frame for spring clearence. move snubber --thats the easy fix.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

new design

the same companies that sell these stock replacement lift springs (all the ones that move axle foward at all) also sell hysteer kits, all with the same problem (contact when straight and compressed) need to figure out that thier springs dont work with thier steering arms. i wish someone would put the tierod in front of the draglink instead then you can move the axle foward without moving box. it would only require them to drill thier tierod holes different. i noticed you have springs like that.

 

[1 grumpy]

what about getting a differant pitman arm??

 

[Binder]

my question is, could this be contributing to my death wobble?

No.....You could probably just bend the pitman arm up a bit to make it clear.

 

[82toyomud]

I have the same problem but less severe. What size is the tube? I'm gonna try 1.25x0.250 instead of 1.5x0.250 for a little more clearance. I doubt if that would be the cause of death wobble though.

That switch, is a huge drop in strength... you don't want to do that...

 

[Poohbair]

Just move the box... its not hard, will cost you well under 100 bucks, and you can do it in a few hours.

 

[Dain Bramage]

what about getting a differant pitman arm??

thats what i said! does anyone make a shorter pitman arm?

 

[1 grumpy]

thats what i said! does anyone make a shorter pitman arm?

I ment flatter..:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Dain Bramage]

it will hit the frame.

duh.:looser:

 

[1 grumpy]

it will hit the frame.

duh.:looser.:

you going to take care of that nasty crack?