Can someone tell me the difference between a wood cutting band saw and a metal cutting one (other than the blade). I just picked up a 20in rockwell band saw from the mid 70's but all the old info I find on it says its a wood cutter however it sure seems to me that it would cut metal fine. Just want to make sure I'm not missing something important.
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Band saw question
- Thread starter mjp1080
- Start date
Todd1803
Well-Known Member
Blade speed needs to be a lot slower for metal.
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Speed. Usually adjustable though through belts and pulleys and things. Or, you could look at a local hardware store that sells pulleys and make it work right yourself. I know my dad changed the pulleys on an old band saw to cut slower for steel once.
~T.J.
EDIT: Damn, beat to it.
~T.J.
EDIT: Damn, beat to it.
TigTorch
Well-Known Member
I converted a Grizzly wood band saw to a steel cutting saw about 20 years ago and still works great. It was a fair amount of work but I couldn't afford a metal saw at the time. (Couple of pics for ya': Purple base is gay now but in 1985 purple was cool !) Go for it, it will work. Just be nice to it or you'll break it.
Differences:
*As mentioned speed is the biggest concern.
*The table on a metal cutting saw has more bracing and is more rigid to support the extra weight of plate metals
*A wood saw will have rubber covered blade wheels, a metal saw will have solid steel wheels.
* Blade tension will be higher, you will probably bottom out the tensioner spring on the wood saw.
* Blade guides will be heavier/stronger.
*Generally heavier built and priced accordingly.
uke:
Differences:
*As mentioned speed is the biggest concern.
*The table on a metal cutting saw has more bracing and is more rigid to support the extra weight of plate metals
*A wood saw will have rubber covered blade wheels, a metal saw will have solid steel wheels.
* Blade tension will be higher, you will probably bottom out the tensioner spring on the wood saw.
* Blade guides will be heavier/stronger.
*Generally heavier built and priced accordingly.
uke:
Last edited:
thanks for the info guys. one more question I have is what kind of rpm range are we talking about or does it depend on the blade I use. Right now it has a 3phase motor that turns 1750 rpm. I was going to get a 1phase motor that turns 3500 rpm but put a much smaller pulley on it to get the speed down, would that work?
TigTorch
Well-Known Member
Its all based on the blade.
The manufacturer of the blade will have very specific foot per minute speed callouts. Too fast and the blade teeth will overheat and the blade goes soft. I've ruined new blades in just a few seconds by getting them too hot.
Look on the internet or stop by Stellar Supply in everett and ask about speeds.
The manufacturer of the blade will have very specific foot per minute speed callouts. Too fast and the blade teeth will overheat and the blade goes soft. I've ruined new blades in just a few seconds by getting them too hot.
Look on the internet or stop by Stellar Supply in everett and ask about speeds.
Broken Again
Well-Known Member
Metal cutting blades will depend on what you are cutting.
For example, cutting .5 inch alum I would want at least 6 Teeth Per Inch. But 1 inch alum I would go with 4 TPI. Booth at about 3500 feet per minute.
Important point here is that you keep at least 3 teeth in the metal. Most metal cutting blades are "raker" blades, that is one tooth right, one center, one left(and one center again etc). If you do not have 3 teeth engaged you will be breaking down the side of each rake.
In carbon steel (same thickness) I would be using a 14 TPI or so blade at about 160 FPM.
If you are cutting steel tube, I'd go with 18 TPI because of the thinner wall.
For example, cutting .5 inch alum I would want at least 6 Teeth Per Inch. But 1 inch alum I would go with 4 TPI. Booth at about 3500 feet per minute.
Important point here is that you keep at least 3 teeth in the metal. Most metal cutting blades are "raker" blades, that is one tooth right, one center, one left(and one center again etc). If you do not have 3 teeth engaged you will be breaking down the side of each rake.
In carbon steel (same thickness) I would be using a 14 TPI or so blade at about 160 FPM.
If you are cutting steel tube, I'd go with 18 TPI because of the thinner wall.
10mmauto
Member
I true metal cutting bandsaw is a horizontal saw. Or metal cutoff saw. It clamps the metal, and miters it to what you need. They are gravity fed or power fed. Air cooled or have a cooling setup.
Pook
Well-Known Member
Pook
Well-Known Member
You could always use it at wood cutting speeds for friction cutting. I know a few oldtimers that use wood saws to do it with no issue.
http://yarchive.net/metal/friction_cutting.html
http://yarchive.net/metal/friction_cutting.html
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
10mmauto
Member
In every shop Ive seen I have never seen one vertical saw for cutting metal.
Pook
Well-Known Member
Then you need to go out and see more shops...You normally can find them in older machine shops, the tool and die makers I know use them regularly.
Not as common these days since people have plasma cutters and stuff doing a lot of the work they where used for but they are still out there and still useful to own.
I'd love to have one for my own shop.
Last edited:
10mmauto
Member
I weld for a living, So, thats why I never see them. Too slow, and you have to babysit them. In any shop including my garage, I just set the saw and go do something else while it cuts.
Last edited:
Pook
Well-Known Member
you don't understand what they are used for.
Bandsaws can cut more than just straight lines
Bandsaws can cut more than just straight lines
10mmauto
Member
I do understand. But I dont or any shop Ive worked in, ever needs that. Use a torch, plasma, or a cnc cutter.
Pook
Well-Known Member
But all those methods create heat and can warp the piece or leave slag. A general fab shop might not need one... but its still a handy tool to have if you want to make and cut shapes out of steel. And it is a lot easier to keep things accurate than a hand held torch or plasma.
Broken Again
Well-Known Member
Here is one of 3 vertical band saws we have, actually it's called a "DoAll Contour Machine". There is also a hot(friction) saw and cut-off band saw in the background.
Last edited:
TigTorch
Well-Known Member
WOW, cool saw. I'll bet that saw is worth $10,000 used.
Broken Again
Well-Known Member
According to the tag, it came to our shop in 1964, still works great.
Check out this 32" Gap Bed LeBlond....Army Air Core tag on it is from 1945, and a USAF Buick contract tag, and a NASCO(ship building) tag. It belonged to the airforce the whole time until it was donated to us in 1968.
BTW a very good lathe too.
Last edited:
