Basic Build-up for a PNW Offroad Rig?

Rich1 · Jan 18, 2007

Heres a somewhat troublesome question;

When someone set's out to build a better offroader from it's original stock form... besides the basic upgrades, i.e. better tires - lift, traction control, recovery points, winch, rollcage, added horsepower, lower gearing, stronger axles, longer shocks, ---- the list sort of just goes on & on... to no end.

my question is more or less, for our area's around here in Wa & basically based on just about any rig out there... wheres the, "Sweet Spot" at?

is there a standard build to somewhat follow?

- platform
- wheelbase
- suspension
- drivetrain

Is there a actual build-up of a rig that hit's the, "Medium" for all trails in the PNW & for all trail types. can a offroader be built to crawl rocks w/ leaf springs or does it need a coil / link set-up? is there 1 platform vs another that is better to start & build off of? whats some of the opinions to be heard...

Nuzzy · Jan 18, 2007

A mildly built samuri is the perfect NW wheelin vehicle.

Rich1 · Jan 18, 2007

Nuzzy said:
A mildly built samuri is the perfect NW wheelin vehicle.

I think a thread like this, if kept positive... would be a ideal place for the average noo'b to discover the basic's of the type of rig to start out w/ & seeing the end result's of those rig's on here built, either trail specific or type of terrain, would have a great place to learn about a direction to start at.

notstock · Jan 18, 2007

Sammi with an extended wheelbase possibly.

Money Mark · Jan 18, 2007

Formula Toy or Zuk w/propane. But will need trailer/tow rig......so???

wentz912 · Jan 18, 2007

What about a bobbed and dovetailed yota? Think about it, easy to build, popular(read: easy to find parts for), go anywhere with the right equipment, could do rocks, mud, everything with same suspension like OME or TG.

4x4Rob · Jan 18, 2007

well im kinda biased since im a yota guy, but id say a 1st gen 4runner, they can be built mild to extreme, plus they have room to bring friends or family and still pack all the gear you might need. not to mention they are narrow enough for the tight WA trails. Plus you can find parts for'em everywhere and the aftermarket is huge.

toyman21 · Jan 18, 2007

i agree with 4X4rob.
Plus they have enough power to run down the HWY with larger tires and get good mpg and very dependable

briejer · Jan 18, 2007

I'm all for a TJ. Minor suspension mods and you have a nice linked suspension that gives great traction(no axle wrap) and good approach angle.

Anything with leaf springs in the front mess up th aproach angle drastically.

Rich1 · Jan 18, 2007

keep 'em coming.... guys / gals.

*Maybe a few have started w/ a certain Platform and have reached a end of some sorts... where they could give a detailed explanation of how it started & where it more or less has ended for thier Platform.

--------------

like myself, I've gone thru more stock 4wd rig's in the last couple years, than anyone i know... and being i live here in the great PNW and wheel the trails, i've always felt more comfortable in a Suzuki Samurai, from taking one out stock to a mildly built one... they've just been a big hit for me. and have always seemed to do excemptionally well on the majority of trails here.

I'm faced now w/ the decision of going, TRAILER QUEEN status.

More so, because of my want / ability to go farther on trails that are more extreme & being the Zuk now... is pretty unstoppable & the 4+ trails that are otherwise hard or impossible are easy on the Zuk.

therefore the trails that are 5+ difficulty rating's - would be more of a challenge & require my Zuk to have a longer wheelbase and bigger tires, etc.

this is where my question arises from is there a happy medium or do you just build a rig based on a specific type of expected wheeling / trail system / obstacle or area related difficulties?

Brian H · Jan 18, 2007

Mildly built sami to full buggied out sami or a toyota of any year with a decent suspension lockers and gears.

KarlVP · Jan 18, 2007

This side of the mountains, Either a sammy or A TJ rubicon with a winch on it. 33 inch tires are perfect.

For eastern washington. A stock flatfender with a winch on it.

Grommit327 · Jan 18, 2007

I think it really depends on the budget and whether the rig is to be trailered or driven to and from the trails....

So with that said something with a 105"-110" wheelbase, about 78-80" track width (although I have no problems at 82"

), armored front/rear bumpers and sliders, winch, some kind of roll protection, proper gearing...both axle and transfercase, F/R lockers...with the front being selectable, dependable...i.e. bulletproof steering system, just enough lift for 35-37" tires to keep you COG low as possible, linked suspension with coils/CO's is nice but leaves will do for a lot of trails around here:; , spare parts and proper tools to fix commonly broken parts. And the most important part...a driver that can navigate trails without breaking crap every 50ft

All that put together should give you a rig that is very capable and also has the bonus of not having to be trailered everywhere you want to go because lets face it...not all of us can afford a tow rig, the trailer, an economical dd, plus the trail rig n or have the place to store all those rigs.

just my worthless $.02
Joe

Harvester of Sorrow · Jan 18, 2007

It is all about the dimensions...not the vehicle type. Any vehicle can be conformed to fit the dimensions...

100-110" wheelbase
76" bulge to bulge width
22" or more frame to ground dimension
less than 80" vehicle height
60* or better approach and departure angles
50-50 weight split

Anything else is debatable...The above platform will create a stable vehicle that will flat out perform.

Coil, leaf, 1/4 eliptical, linked...all up to preference and fab capabilities...

Engine, tranny, final drive gearing can be argued for days...

The vehicle should be geared and powered so that it can traverse forest roads safely at speed, yet slow enough over obsticles to tackle them...

The above dimensions will allow you to run any trail...if the rest of the vehicle is set up accordingly. Without the proper foundation...any build will be like gravy on a hotdog...worthless.

crash2 · Jan 18, 2007

How many of your PNW rigs have enough room to load a rig up and be on the trail for days at a time :stirpot:

Jaydog · Jan 18, 2007

briejer said:
I'm all for a TJ. Minor suspension mods and you have a nice linked suspension that gives great traction(no axle wrap) and good approach angle.

Anything with leaf springs in the front mess up th aproach angle drastically.

Robin hit it dead on, a TJ is by far the best platform to start with. :;

Not Jobless · Jan 18, 2007

The best place to start is with whatever you wheel.

From there, only experience and a desire to progress with this sport will define how you will build/modify you rig.

Simply posting a thread like this shows your complete ignorance towards wheelin and any noob will not find any useful info this this thread because what works for one may not work for another and everyone has a different idea of what wheeling is

crash2 · Jan 18, 2007

But there is "no" perfect rig for PNW wheeling..

You start with your rig and you evolve it into what you want.

Whats good for the goose isn't always good for the gander..

KarlVP · Jan 18, 2007

crash said:
How many of your PNW rigs have enough room to load a rig up and be on the trail for days at a time :stirpot:

Ooo!!! Ooo!!! Pick ME!!!

TJ's are great, but JK's are the wave of the future. And if you really want to wheel in the PNW, get a Rhino. Or just build a tube buggy. Or, you could wheel a toyota, or a Plymouth Tucker with an Exo cage. Or a dodge neon with 53 inch michelins on it.

Or you could wheel what you got. Build it and wheel it and break it and repeat.

Rich, you crack me up.