hey guys im new here. im building a tube buggy using the old motor out of my rock crawling truck. its a low compression 383 with a 144 b&m blower and the 900 cfm holley commander fuel injection system on it. th350 trans w a rev/ man valve body and ratchet shifter , twin stick 205 case w/ custom clocking adapter, 14 bolt dana 60 front, 4.56 gears, 44 boggers, beadlocks, full hydro steering. Sound like a good combo?
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blown sbc?
- Thread starter blownyota
- Start date
It does, but what about the rest of the setup? Wheelbase, width, height, weight, suspension, and what are your driving habits? Bounce or crawl? Sounds like you got a serious start on things though, who's building the chassis?
H
HotRodpayton
Guest
Needs lower gears, or a doubler IMO. As far as wheel speed, you will have it. Crawling your gonna be in a bind. PM me, I'll give you some good insight on chassis.
John Galbreath Jr.
38 Special & Solo Buggy
- Joined
- May 24, 2007
- Messages
- 8,613
Get rid of the ratchet shifter. It does not allow for a quick reverse for saves.
its gonna have about a 120 inch wheelbase, ballistic 2.5 inch 16 inch travel remote c/o's in the front, the ballistic hybrid air shock/ coilover setups in the rear. foa 4" air bumps all around. its pretty narrow, two corbeau seats only have a half inch between them in the cab. i havent been anywhere riding except riverrock so no chances to bounce in that old truck. I want to get a lomax or a atlas one day. i want to run it and make sure that everything works right. The ratchet shifter is all i got. i was hopin it would be a quick shift with the reverse manual valve body. I built the chassis and aluminum fuel cell myself. the chassis is made out of 2x4x3/16 rect tube for the main frame and 2x1/8 hrew round for the rest. gotta get some pics...
blownyota said:
ALRIGHT, now we are getting somewhere. What do you want to be able to do with it when you are done? With 44 boggers, it sounds as though you do want to bounce. I would get rid of 2 of those boggers at least and get some tizzles for steering or you'll tear that up. I agree with John though, ditch the ratchet if nothing else. Go with at least a cheap gate shifter or some kind of straight pattern shifter. I am sure someone on here can help you with that. Keep us posted. By the way, where are you located and what trails are you going to hit?
im here in dublin ga right in the middle of the state. when i get all the bugs worked out i plan on going to riverrock and grayrock. i took the reverse lockout off the ratchet shifter to speed things up. im working on the body panels now and getting ready to paint.
Roll your own shifter. Find an old Blazer or Chev pickup that had the NP203 transfer case. The shifter mounts flush in the floor and has no gates but is spring loaded side to side. Use a solid rod with small Heim joints at each end and make your own gate plate. You can change the length of the throw by changing the length of the shift arm on the tranny or moving the shifter end of the rod up or down. this setup is VERY positive, gets rid of that dumbass cable, and you can make if feel however you want. Just be sure you put a deep detent in your gate plate to prevent getting into Park accidentally. Plus it's cheap and bulletproof..
PsDad said:
Dang P's dad, you've done that before. I got to believe that works.Ok yall got me worried about that shifter but i thought i was doin the right thing by removing the reverse lockout and installing a reverse manual valve body in the tranny. The way i figured it, once i get into first i can hit it two times and be in reverse, yank it two times and be in first. All the while not having to pull up that retarded lever for the lockout. i ground off the rivet and threw that **** away. The shifter Psdad talked about sounded WAAAAY COOOL though. Gotta try it. Yall gotta remember im down here with a bunch of mud boggers. Hell im down here with the man that owns BIG NASTY the blue ford on youtube. FORD WALKING ON WATER video. There arent a bunch of rockcrawlers/bouncers down here.
That's ok man we are just glad your hanging out here. We like new perspectives and ideas from outside sources. 
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
I have used birmingham driveline i think that is the name. Neapco makes the components I used. I would buy to female parts and one male and make two driveshafts, the male piece is 24 inches long I think. The female ends used to be about 40 a piece and i am wanting to say the male piece was right under 200 dollars. I always use a thick wall tubing for actual driveshaft. get the stock slip yoke put it in lathe bore it out, and turn down the male long splined piece to go in the old slip yoke part and then weld them up. Weld the female part into the thick wall tubing and the old end of your driveshaft and make other end to length that you need. If you didnt have a shop to do it I would tell you to get it to me and I would do it for you.
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
Cant remeber them off the top of my head, I will see if I can find them
