Boonie Buster Ver. 2.634

jeepmauler · Jul 16, 2008

the housing basically follows the radius of the third member then blends into the tube.The newer(70's) housings have ALOT more material tapering from the center section out, onto the tubes.Stronger for rear application but a hassle if you want to have youre front pinion as close to the knuckle as possible.

crash2 · Jul 16, 2008

Oh--what do you know jeff

:hi:

Boonie Buster · Jul 17, 2008

Made some progress on the second crossmember tonight, tomorrow night I will work on fine tuning the brackets (ie. notching the main bar for the mounts and making attachments to the case)

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

Got the np205 crossmember almost finished tonight, found a BUNCH of problems with my driveline yokes on the t-cases and pinions

some one is getting a crude phone call on monday

Also my driver's side steering arm for the tie rod, the hole was reamed out too much so the tie rod ball joint sticks too far through and if the castle nut is cranked tight it is still loose

all in all a bad day as far as parts go:awesomework:

angelfly · Jul 20, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
Got the np205 crossmember almost finished tonight, found a BUNCH of problems with my driveline yokes on the t-cases and pinions some one is getting a crude phone call on monday Also my driver's side steering arm for the tie rod, the hole was reamed out too much so the tie rod ball joint sticks too far through and if the castle nut is cranked tight it is still loose all in all a bad day as far as parts go:awesomework:

was is mt case thats the problem??? or did the drivelines not work out???

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

angelfly said:
was is mt case thats the problem??? or did the drivelines not work out???

no your case is fine, it's the yokes that i wanted to put on, i wanted them all the same cus the front and rear were different, so i wanted some beef and all the same u-joint to be used on everything... guess not...:booo: now i am reconsidering my driveline options and seeing about going with a smaller sixe, i just don't want to go too weak i guess.:eeek:

angelfly · Jul 20, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
no your case is fine, it's the yokes that i wanted to put on, i wanted them all the same cus the front and rear were different, so i wanted some beef and all the same u-joint to be used on everything... guess not...:booo: now i am reconsidering my driveline options and seeing about going with a smaller sixe, i just don't want to go too weak i guess.:eeek:

Man I really wouldnt worry about it, I mean they took the beating of my fullsize and never had a problem I dont know why you would have one. . . .

I said this in your other post but in case you missed it, If I remeber correctly the 44 and 205 yokes swap with eachother, So really you only need 2 spares one for the 44 and one for the 9in if you are worried about breaking them:beer:

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too....

:booo:

Toyotanut · Jul 20, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too.... :booo:

Why get rid of the truck???? I know it's frustrating when you run into a bunch of problems all at once, but just work thru them. It will be worth it in the end

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

Toyotanut said:
Why get rid of the truck???? I know it's frustrating when you run into a bunch of problems all at once, but just work thru them. It will be worth it in the end

I know, I'm just REALLY bummed right now.:booo:

cameron_garrison · Jul 20, 2008

could the high steer arms be meant for bigger tres??? might be a dumb question or could you make the work by switching to heims for your steering

Boonie Buster · Jul 21, 2008

cameron_garrison said:
could the high steer arms be meant for bigger tres??? might be a dumb question or could you make the work by switching to heims for your steering

I think they just got bored out too much.:eeek:

JThompson · Jul 21, 2008

I hope the waffles picked up your spirits :awesomework:

This does all suck, but when you are trying to do such specific things, you are bound to run into bumps. Keep at it.

Boxxerace · Jul 22, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too.... :booo:

I wonder if the high steer arms were bored out for the joints used on a 60, instead of a 44? I wonder if they are bigger or not?

Either way, take some measurements and built a fatty steering track bar (whatever it is called) with some new joints and whatnot. Problem fixed! Edit, it would appear that 1 ton rod ends are larger than 1/2 stuff, no surprise at that.

cameron_garrison · Jul 22, 2008

thats what i was saying i wasnt sure if he has 1ton sterring on it or not

Boonie Buster · Jul 22, 2008

cameron_garrison said:
thats what i was saying i wasnt sure if he has 1ton sterring on it or not

I got 3/4 ton ball joints and I was under the impression they were the same size... for some 3/4 ton and 1 ton stuff...:eeek:

Damnyankee · Jul 22, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
I got 3/4 ton ball joints and I was under the impression they were the same size... for some 3/4 ton and 1 ton stuff...:eeek:

I though they were too, but maybe it was the other way around.. 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton....

cameron_garrison · Jul 22, 2008

try taking one to the parts store and compare them i think 1tons are bigger but i could be wrong

Boxxerace · Jul 22, 2008

From what I have seen, most 44 front axles, 1/2 ton or 3/4 are virtually the same outside of the spindles, bearings / hub bodies (and yeah, more lugs smart ass). There might be some thin wall 44's out there under some old jeep, but I think the Chevy 44's are basically the same with respect to your joint sizes.

Dana 60's are entirely different animals, as are 30's, 70's and so on.

angelfly · Jul 23, 2008

Boxxerace said:
From what I have seen, most 44 front axles, 1/2 ton or 3/4 are virtually the same outside of the spindles, bearings / hub bodies (and yeah, more lugs smart ass). There might be some thin wall 44's out there under some old jeep, but I think the Chevy 44's are basically the same with respect to your joint sizes.

Dana 60's are entirely different animals, as are 30's, 70's and so on.

Not trying to argue but 1/2ton and 3/4ton are not the same! A 3/4ton ford 44 is also called a bigknuckle 44 meaning everything from the inner c and out is bigger and stronger then a 1/2ton!!! The spindles, bearings, rotors, everything is different:beer: Aftering working on many oldskool fullsizes 1/2ton- 1ton u figure some **** out:awesomework: Anyways he has a ford 44 and I think that is identical to a ford 60 except the guts.????