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Bouncer chassis shifting side to side.

bigredkacy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
82
Alright. So I took it out for the first beating this weekend and I can't figure out why the chassis is shifting from side to side.

If you push the front drivers side towards the passenger it will move like 2 inches and the same the other way. This cause my bump stops to get caught under the lower brackets and ripping them out under heavy suspension flex.

All the jam nuts are tight, the links are straight, the 4 link has the proper angles.. I know a link does not need a pan hard bar but what's would cause this?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0mD7kHIIBdkT3IwNEdGVkpZb28/view?usp=docslist_api
 
What is the angle of the lower links in comparison to the upper links when looking straight down?
 
I've seen that kinda thing happen when the holes in the link tabs were drilled to big so the bolts could move causing slack side to side and twisting! If there isn't slack in anything then suspension geometry is all that is left!
 
Sorry about the lack of info. I'll try to get some better numbers on the geometry and check the sizes of the hiem holes.

Figured I'd ask to see if any thoughts came to mind effort I run the numbers again.
 
bigredkacy said:
Sorry about the lack of info. I'll try to get some better numbers on the geometry and check the sizes of the hiem holes.

Figured I'd ask to see if any thoughts came to mind effort I run the numbers again.
Ok after looking at your picture link. You have single triangulated four link because of the rock wells the axles shifting from side to side as the suspension cycles is very common with that setup! The easiest fix is to make wider landing pads for your bump stops!
Just FYI an 1/8" at the lower link heim will multiply depending on the length of the link.
 
al1tonyota said:
Ok after looking at your picture link. You have single triangulated four link because of the rock wells the axles shifting from side to side as the suspension cycles is very common with that setup! The easiest fix is to make wider landing pads for your bump stops!
Just FYI an 1/8" at the lower link heim will multiply depending on the length of the link.

Yep, what he said.

tri lowers with straight uppers make the axls that the axle pivots around pretty low, so the top of the axle moves around a lot, and the axle moves a lot during flex.
 
Yeap it is a single triangulated 4 link. If it is common that puts me at ease.

I will make the lower perches/landing pads for the bump stops wider.

The link itself is 52" without the hiems.

Here is a good picture of what it was doing all weekend, pulling the bumpstop out of the can as it flexed and caught the lower landing pad.

03.08.2016-08.37.png
 
Change your upper on one side with triangulation, sounds wierd but works. My last one like this worked great with no drawbacks at all . And to make this more clear Bottom triangulated like normal, 1 straight upper ,1 triangulated
 
Elliott said:
Change your upper on one side with triangulation, sounds wierd but works. My last one like this worked great with no drawbacks at all . And to make this more clear Bottom triangulated like normal, 1 straight upper ,1 triangulated

Do you have any pictures of how you did it with the rockwell??
 
I probably due but it could take me a little bit to find them. basically I kept the same math as I usually would where the uppers were 25% shorter that the lowers, this is assuming they were being mounted double triangulated , then I figured where my mounts would be normally located, this gave me the mounting point for the straight bar and the measurements for cutting it because it will become several inches shorter than the other top bar.I know this sounds strange and everyone argued with me about this working when I built it but it has had the living **** beat out of it with no problems now and its growing on 4 years old now.
 
Re: Re: Bouncer chassis shifting side to side.

Elliott said:
I probably due but it could take me a little bit to find them. basically I kept the same math as I usually would where the uppers were 25% shorter that the lowers, this is assuming they were being mounted double triangulated , then I figured where my mounts would be normally located, this gave me the mounting point for the straight bar and the measurements for cutting it because it will become several inches shorter than the other top bar.I know this sounds strange and everyone argued with me about this working when I built it but it has had the living **** beat out of it with no problems now and its growing on 4 years old now.
For crawling this might have little to no effects. Might wear joints more as the links are likely binding some during travel.
 
Those tall ass mounts will move around a lot more then a shorter mount too. Prob gonna take a wide mount to be able to fix problem. If you can deal with the sway build big pads and wheel it.
 
Links didn't bind at all, it was picked up with fork lifts and checked as soon as it was a roller, I would personally not build a rockwells rig any other way, it just made everything work, even able to use a 1 piece front driveshaft with no interference.
 
Go look at 90% of the Rockwell axled rigs single triangulated is perfectly fine! The tall ass mounts are necessary for the correct separation for the ride height of a standard Rockwell rig! Simply weld a piece of 3/8" flat plate across the top of the current mount and call it good! :driving:
 
I agree most Rockwell rigs with single triangle ( I have two rigs this way) have some side to side movement. Loose heims will magnify that. If their all tight then make your bump pads bigger
 
So.. It's not rocking or sliding from one side or the other from slop. It's just not lining up with bump stops when it twists up?
 
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