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Can it be done?

wentz912

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
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944
Location
Kelso, WA
So I need to replace the timing cover on the 85 22R that's in my 81 Toyota Pickup.

Can I do this without having to pull the head?

Seems to me that all I should have to do is pull the fan and other accessories off, the crank bolt and pulley, then remove the front cover bolts and the one up top that goes through the head and she-bam off she comes.

Am i stooooooooooopid or??
 
Yes you can do the timing chain with out pulling the head. I have done it several times. You just have to be careful putting it back together not to **** up the head gasket. Make sure it is really clean ( use brake clean ) and lots of silicone on the oil pan to timing cover. Make sure you use RTV ultra black silicone it is the best.....
 
"The Right Stuff" is the best for sealing surfaces without a gasket :awesomework: ultra black is good too and much cheaper :awesomework:
 
yeah, "The right stuff", is the ****. We use it at work a lot when were trying to get a quick fix done until the right gasket can be ordered. It ends up filling a lot of the other guys sockets too somehow... :fawkdancesmiley:
 
I'll be the first.

Make sure you remove the distributor, In the distributor gears oil bath in the cylinder head there is a 12? mm bolt that has to be removed, Otherwise the cover wont come off...
 
So I need to replace the timing cover on the 85 22R that's in my 81 Toyota Pickup.

Can I do this without having to pull the head?

Seems to me that all I should have to do is pull the fan and other accessories off, the crank bolt and pulley, then remove the front cover bolts and the one up top that goes through the head and she-bam off she comes.

Am i stooooooooooopid or??
Don't forget the water pipe flange bolts on the back sides of t-cover (IIRC some had 'em, some didn't)...and X-however many times "The Right Stuff" has been mentioned as the sheit...hands down!:awesomework:
 
I'll be the first.

Make sure you remove the distributor, In the distributor gears oil bath in the cylinder head there is a 12? mm bolt that has to be removed, Otherwise the cover wont come off...

x2 the hidden bolt has gotten many people.
 
There are numerous mistakes that people do ALL THE TIME !!!

1: 12mm Bolt under the distributor drive gear, don't forget it.

2: 12mm Bolt on drivers side, half way down the cover. It goes through a small tang of the block into the front cover from the back side.

3: There are (4) - 14mm bolts. 3 of which are double washer. 1 is a single washer and is LONGER. It MUST go on the upper drivers side. A shorter bolt in that hole catches only 2 threads and will pull them out, mushrooming the front of the block and it will leak oil severely.

4: Be VERY carefull reinstalling the front cover. Don't use too much RTV it will end up blocking the oil pick up tube and will starve the oiling system.

5: The BEST but less "easy" way to do this job is to remove the oil pan

6: 12mm bolts are 9 FOOT POUNDS. There is actually a slightly different FP called for the oil pump bolts. The two long ones that go through the pump into the block are 14 LBS.

7: 14mm bolts are 29 FOOT POUNDS

8: When re-installing the 12mm bolt that goes down through the head it is EXTREAMLY IMPORTANT not to OVER TIGHTEN it. It will CRACK the front cover and it will leak severly.

Best of luck,
Patrick
 
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Much obliged Patrick. Was wondering when you were going to chime in. You've always got those technical little details about 22R's stored in the ol' noggin.
 
I'll be the first.

In the distributor gears oil bath in the cylinder head there is a 12? mm bolt that has to be removed, Otherwise the cover wont come off...

Bullshit, it'll come out, some of it will just stay bolted to the head:redneck: been there, done that.
 
Anybody got any tips on getting the crank pulley off of a motor that's not in a rig? I don't have air here at my shop and my I broke three sockets on my electric (110V) impact trying to get that damn thing off.
 

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