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Can't Stop!

dynajeep

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
547
Location
Boyne City, MI
Ok so the buggys brakes aren't the best by any means, now with this new power plant it's boarder line sketchy! It's never been able to hold it's self on a hill. I know 1 of the issues is the stainless braided lines from the masters all the way to the calipers.
So my questions are. I have 3/4" wilwood masters. I also have the single piston chevy calipers, good quality brake pads and rotors with what looks like 1/4" lines. I plan on making all the lines hardline and doing braided where it's needed. Does everything else seem to match up? Or I need larger or smaller masters? Smaller or larger brake lines? Any help would be great.
 
I'm curious about yours. Hard pedal and poor hold or spongy pedal?

I run a 7/8 piston single master with a small OEM Chrysler booster. Ford 2 piston calipers in the front and dodge 3500, 2 piston calipers in the rear. Hard lines from the master down to steel braided 24" front lines to the calipers and hard line to 12" rubber OEM lines in the rear.

I have had a smooshy pedal since birth but my brakes hold like a stinkin champ. Even at 7.44:1 low on a hill.

Curious what others say about your setup though?
 
LightBnDr said:
I'm curious about yours. Hard pedal and poor hold or spongy pedal?

I run a 7/8 piston single master with a small OEM Chrysler booster. Ford 2 piston calipers in the front and dodge 3500, 2 piston calipers in the rear. Hard lines from the master down to steel braided 24" front lines to the calipers and hard line to 12" rubber OEM lines in the rear.

I have had a smooshy pedal since birth but my brakes hold like a stinkin champ. Even at 7.44:1 low on a hill.

Curious what others say about your setup though?

Pedal feels about right, not smooshy but not hard either. I've thought about going to a 7/8" master tonget more volume and stay with the 1/4 lines. Instead of throwing parts at it, I know someone knows what the right setup is.

I had hydroboost before and man do I ever miss them. If I had room to put it in this buggy it would most definitely be done
 
Sounds like my setup is very similar to yours with the exception that I have stock super duty brakes in the front. Braided lines the whole way with 3/4 masters. No problems holding on down hills in gear. I am also running 2 lb residual valves off the masters and vacuum bled everything.
 
rafter b2000 said:
If you can, go with a hydroboost instead of the manual. Night and day difference.

Ask poolman about his buggy. He just got it back from getting hydroboost swapped in. His was like yours. It will lock up 43's pretty damn easy now
 
One big variable when comparing two systems is brake pedal length. On a manual brake system your can get more line pressure by having a longer brake pedal. If your stoke is too long, you would need a larger master cylinder. Large MC needs a longer pedal to build line pressure.

Given the same length pedal and leg strength, a smaller mc 3/4" will make more line pressure than a larger 7/8" mc.
 
I know you said you didn't want to throw parts at it...but I never could get my old setup (3/4 and 7/8 masters, Chevy single piston, normal rotors) to stop. I pulled the stops and went with spidertrax hats and rotors and Wilwood calipers and it stops on a dime now. I ran hardline in the chassis and stainless flex at joints and coming out of the masters. Used the WOD kit for all the lines.

Pedal and masters are the same exact ones that were on my old setup.

I'm not sure it it was lines, calipers, or rotors. But I suspect it was the calipers and rotors.
 
Are they sketchy when you first take it off the trailer or after you've warmed them up a bit. :dunno: Could be crappy glazed over pads

Maybe you just need to put thicker tubing for the front bumper to absorb more trees, or maybe a nice parachute when NASA clears you for re-entry? :rolf:




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CHASMAN9 said:
Could be crappy glazed over pads

Had to take the ol wire wheel to my front pads this weekend....poor boy life...ya'll don't know bout that struggle. It was either that or install Ford motor for less horsepressure.
 
dynajeep said:
Pedal feels about right, not smooshy but not hard either. I've thought about going to a 7/8" master tonget more volume and stay with the 1/4 lines. Instead of throwing parts at it, I know someone knows what the right setup is.

I had hydroboost before and man do I ever miss them. If I had room to put it in this buggy it would most definitely be done

7/8 MC didn't feel right or stop well for me. I'd keep the 3/4 MC and go to hardline. Check your rotors and pads and make sure nothing is glazed or issues. I have SS line every where and I think if I went to hardline my braking would improve.

I ended up going to 4 piston WW calipers and WW rotors. Braking is good but not what I was really hoping for.
 
Bronco72 said:
Ask poolman about his buggy. He just got it back from getting hydroboost swapped in. His was like yours. It will lock up 43's pretty damn easy now


rafter b2000 said:
If you can, go with a hydroboost instead of the manual. Night and day difference.











Night and day difference. X100 :****:
 
Whats your stall converter? Low range gearing? Axle gearing?

Im running a 7" Jimmy's 4x4 pedal, 3/4in wilwood masters, 2lb residual valves to -3an SS lines all the way to 3/4 ton chevy single piston calipers. I can hold down hill or uphill just fine. They even work better if i shift into Neutral. Im running cheap Napa pads.

stock 4l60e stall, 5.13s, 4.3 low range.
 
bjeep said:
One pump on the pedal. Then you have nothing.......






Since I just put mine on I had to try it, just went down the road about 20 mph turned off the ignition, coasted about 20 feet and hit the breaks, locked them up. Seem fine to me.
 
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