• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Chev trouble codes

Ahh what the hell, I feel like I have tried everything else. So if it stalls after slappin it around a bit then the ecm is bad?
 
Man, sounds like the same problem i'm having with my 90 5.7L TBI. Although when i disconnect the wires to the EGR solenoid and my stuttering problem was gone. So i figured that was the problem. Replaced that and the MAP sonsor and problem is still there.:mad: I guess i need to check the EGR valve instelf. I'll be following this one closely.
 
Had a death in the family but now I get to work on the truck some more since we are kinda back to normal.

I dropped the ECM and slapped it

topside=no effect
bottom side=very hard stumble, like the truck shuts off, but no stall

Is that stumble normal or bad?
 
Last edited:
Had a death in the family but now I get to work on the truck some more since we are kinda back to normal.

I dropped the ECM and slapped it

topside=no effect
bottom side=very hard stumble, like the truck shuts off, but no stall

Is that stumble normal or bad?

So that happened after you slapped the ecm?
 
Yes, the truck stumbled hard after I slapped it on the bottom side only. I could not get it to stall even when slapping repeatedly.
 
The 7.4 n motor has seen some dist. shaft bushing problems. Remove dist cap and check for any side to side movement. I have found out the hard way that this WILL cause the vehicle to stall.Please post if any side movment in shaft is found.
 
Whole distributor was replaced with a new unit in October of last year. When I just recently did a tune up I felt no shaft play.

Binder- Just getting the software that comes with it. It seems like it has a few trial versions and a couple complete (free) versions.
 
I will be hookin it up tonight. Mine is OBD I. I would have to check if it is the 160 or 8192 baud. I am gonna throw it on the 4.3 in the runner also (from 92 astro van) and check it out.

I will be trying different programs, but nice and simple sounds good if it will work for me.
 
Ecm is 16197427. It is 8192. I haven't been able to get it to work yet. Seems most of the free software is for specific ECMs and mine is not one of them. Still trying different software and looking for more.
 
Ok got it to work with TTS Datamaster now I just gotta figure out what all this info means.

What looks bad is the O2 volts jumping from approx. 200-920 , Knock count of 9 and spark adv. at 15.5-16.8,These numbers were taken all at idle(850-875 rpm)

Wish it would stay running when in drive to see the difference.
 
Sounds like it must be running long enough to warm it up?O2 is normal and spark is about right. Knock counts could be a issue or maybe not. I'm not familliar with that program but the engine will register knocks at start up then should go back to zero after that.....
Still no trouble codes? Did you reset them?
BTW your idle is a bit high. Don't try to adjust it untill you figure out what's causing it.
 
Last edited:
Yes I reset the trouble codes a lil while back and have none right now. I have heard that the 1 tons are set with a wider parameter than others because they tend to work harder(towing/hauling) and they rarely throw important codes. I read last night that the O2 is pretty normal. On tbi it should go from .2-.9 volts about 3 times a second. The knock reading was still there a couple minutes (maybe 3)after a restart

I have to keep a foot on the throttle in park or N until it warms up then it will idle and stays about 850 rpm. As soon as I shift into R or D it dies. When I put my foot on the brake(to shift out of park) the idle drops and will start to stumble. This brake system does not have a vacuum booster.

I will be playing with it more today and will try and get a screenshot.
 
Last edited:
I have a code 36 again, the program says "IAC, TPS kicker fail" wich sounds like it could be the "idle speed control actuator solenoid" that was talked about earlier in this thread. I will check it again but maybe I will replace it if its not too spendy.
 
Top