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Clayton TJ long arm on a YJ?

Lokey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
200
Location
Lynnwood, WA
I am considering putting the Clayton TJ longarms on my YJ. Cut the shock towers off, weld on some TJ coil buckets, and stuff a XJ reverse rotation (HP) D30 (it is a freebe) under the front end.

Target is 35's with tube fenders, high clerance skid plate, and SOA in for the rear end.

OK let me have it... good idea or bad? Good product or bad product?
 
Hey... What about T&T Customs. Any one run it on a YJ, or anything else for that matter? Would you buy the stuff again?
 
Hey... What about T&T Customs. Any one run it on a YJ, or anything else for that matter? Would you buy the stuff again?


TnT customs KITS are nice. But they use other companies arms and such.

For instance the TnT kit for FiFo's XJ that we did was just RE control arms and thier own belly pan design.

For my money, Clayton is where it's at.
 
I could see the clayton kit working for you but the upper coil buckets I believe won't work on a YJ. If I remember the frame rails are narrower on a TJ.
 
You could put the buckets under the frame rails, and use some TJ Rear coils in the front.

There are some aftermarket kits to mount 2.5 coilover springs on. They offer quick weld up and easy selection of springs as coilover springs can be had most anywhere.

I tried to find the link but I forgot who makes them:scratchhead:
 
There are some aftermarket kits to mount 2.5 coilover springs on. They offer quick weld up and easy selection of springs as coilover springs can be had most anywhere.

I tried to find the link but I forgot who makes them:scratchhead:

FabTech has a kit. Rubicon Express has some type of kit & Superlift now has one for the YJ that uses coils in front.
 
Clayton says that they have weld on coil buckets but that a 4 inch lift spring would net 5 inches of lift which leads me to belive that I might have some problems with clearance between components. TNT has weld on coil buckets also but I have not looked to far into there solution yet as I am not sold on there design.

Coil overs would also work but I may have problems getting parts at some point if I am stuck in the boonies. If possible I want to find a way to run off the shelf components so that If I am in a jam I can borrow parts from someone else to get off out of the woods. Not to mention if you use commonly available parts you get a wider selection and in theory cheaper prices.

While thinking about this again I also can not help but wonder if there would be binding in the front end if I use something like clayton when one wheel is stuffed and the other is extended. It seems like the hard arm design with the main joints welded to the bottom of the frame may have probelms with binding.

Fo now I think that I am going to fix the leaf springs so that I can keep wheeling while I think about this. I would really not mind converting the front end over. I just want to make sure that I am not gonig to be taking it back off after wards becasue I am un happy with the results. That would cut into my wheeling time to much.
 
I am starting to realize that you are right Tom. I also starting to reconsider coil over shocks for the front because from what I have seen in order to fit TJ coils, I will have to notch the frame a fair amount. While I am sure that the strength can be built back into it after it is notched, I would rather avoid that step altogether.

Something to keep thinking about. The more front springs I bend the closer I will get to pulling the trigger also.
 
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