CRANK1 Driveshaft

braille :flipoff1:
and that is ****ty that the junkyard tranny is leaking, but....its a fuggin junkyard tranny. ****ty, but true. I bought a truck last month for the tranny, 350 as well, its a sieve as well. oh well. Hope the rear shaft is nice and economical too. shifter, which one? not too many detents and **** are there?
 
hardline crawlers here are my 2 questions for today. 1 the guy who is building my cv joint says he needs the slip yoke from the Tcase to count the splines and check the length in order to just rebuild my driveshaft with a cv. now problem is i dont know how complex of a job this is or if all the parts will scatter when i pull out the slip yoke (again learning by braile) so any info you guys can give me on this would be greatly appreciated. 2 the front shocks i ordered from 4w parts were too short(i bought the exact same size that kelly had taken from the front and put on the rear) the question here is do you measure from the shock hoop center to the center of the shock hole on the axle and then ???? i mean lets say it measures 24 inches i assume a 16 in shock expands from 16 to day 30 so what size should i get, knowing i have to have a good amount of travel but i dont think you want the shock totally compressed when you are sitting still in the driveway. thoughts, answers, help. .
 
I would guess he needs a measurement first. then you can pull the nut off and pull the yoke off of the case and take it to him. the most that will come out of there is a little bit of fluid. nothing to fall anywhere. it is the big ass nut in the middle of the yoke.

shocks. you need to take a measurement at ride height from eye to eye (hole on hoop to hole on axle) and that is your ride height measurement. say it is 24. say a 14" measures 17" compressed (there is 14" shaft and then ends) so 17" plus half the travel is 17+7=24". that puts the shock in the middle of its travel at ride height. maybe a 14 isn't that long compressed, but you will have to do the measurement. I am betting a 14 is what you need, I didn't have one to mock up with. You don't have a ton of down travel because of the limit straps in the front, and you don't want to bottom the shock, so one that is about out of shaft at limit is best.
 
the measurement from tcase to axle was 27 inches when we measured. now he says to bring him the slip yoke so he has measurements and can count the splines. does the big ass nut in the middle free up the whole thing so you can just pull it out? also hoping to get measurements for the shocks today and then return the 12in i bought and get the ones i need. thanks for the help. after getting these 2 things done next i will try to conquer the leak at the brake drum/axle and then put on the stick, you said you like the zgate one right kelly? i need to get one ordered today
 
well 1 1/8 socket was too small and 1 1/2 was too big, so i am assuming that i need a 1 3/8 or 1 1/4. am i going to need an impact to break that thing loose? also the shock perches measured 23 inches so using yesterdays example that would mean a 14 inch shock would be the right call but i will run it by the guys at 4w parts first.
 
it was a 1 5/16 nut. i got the slip yoke off this weekend and cruisertom is going to run it by driveshafts inc. tommorrow. i think he is planning on using my driveshaft so i am a little confused as to how he will work the cv joint into the mix on the transfer case side (we need a retard smiley) will he reuse the slip yoke from that side and then just mate it to another one that is the same size and with 2 1350 joints? and since the shaft sticks out where i pulled the yoke off how do you install a flat plate there to accomodate the new cv joint. and if any of this makes sense then it sure doesnt seem like this should be an expensive deal to do. i mean there are a lot of driveshaft groups out there that charge a lot for there driveshafts but if your u joints are solid, whats the weakest link, the yokes, the shaft itself??? :spin:
 
the cv yoke, meanig the cast piece that connects the 2 joints and the ball that it houses gives up first. let off when it starts bouncing. most (matt O and others) get away with a 1310 cv and don't break that often.
they will sell you a flat flange yoke to go to your tcase and give you yours back. I wonder if they are cutting up that rear shaft :eek: wonder how much more it is to do a whole new shaft, then you would have a spare.
 
so if they put a plate on the tranny case, (i think i am missin this explanation,) the shaft is stickin out. and if the cover is over that are they actually using 3 u shape yokes at the tranny, 1 attached to the shaft then the double knuckle of yokes???? kelly i am sure you are right about having a spare, but at this point i am out of money and it needs to be streetable soon or mommas gonna be angry
 
they won't use your yoke that you took off the transfer case. they will (better) give that back to you. he needed it to see what spline count the output is and what od it was for the seal surface. after he counts the splines and mic's the seal journal, he will hand it back. at that point he will get a flat flange yoke with the same amount of splines and the same od at the seal that is flat instead of a u joint style. then the cv will have a flat flange on it that mates up to your new yoke at teh tcase. you will bolt these 2 together.
 
alright everyone with a jeep, or the outright knowledge of jeeps and driveshafts here is my dilema. yesterday i got under the jeep with my brand new $475 cv jointed driveshaft and not knowing the correct way to put in the driveshaft other then i had to attach the H yoke to the shaft before i could do anything. so when i go to hold the new shaft up there at the t case the fawking thing is so big it hits the bottom of the damn jeep. so did any of you other jeep owners have this issue? do i have to cut a hole in the floor board? so i can clear enough space for this *****. really starting to piss me off i got all the parts i need to finish this thing and everything keeps kickin my ass :flipper:
:spin:
 
yes he did, being that i am retarded when it comes to this ****, i am not sure exactly why that would make a difference. so maybe you can clarify for me, are you thinking i could lower it, if that is possible, again i have no idea, its very important that you never forget that
 
I raised it up for belly clearance, so the 1410 was about 1/2" from the floor. I didn't think there was any way in hell that a 1350 cv would be bigger than a 1410, but maybe it is?????? You have the flat flange on the back of the tcase output shaft right now? (the new thing held on by the 1 5/16" nut) if you have that on and the cv hits, by how much? maybe hit it with a hammer a little? can't be much if a 1410 cleared.
 
Kelly pretty much put out what I was thinking... I guess the question is how much is it hitting and is it feasible to drop the Xmember or cut / wack the tub for clearance.

Get a pic of it ..... :popcorn:
 

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