wyatt you still planning on grinding out the existing driveshaft where it was hitting itself? Do you think that will eleviate that rattle, or should i go ahead and send it with you to give to BamaTJ? or one of the other guys that will be in Clayton this weekend?
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
CRANK1 Driveshaft
- Thread starter CRANK1
- Start date
Post up pics or specs of what you have now, u-joint size, length, etc. I will be more than happy to get it right for you via the ORC and ship it back. Let me know
UPDATE: i just spoke with javier at gulf coast crawl shop down here in houston (he wheels an FJ) he said he uses Driveshafts Inc. here in houston for all of his driveshafts. he is located on N. Sheppard just north of 610. i am not sure what to do now, because i am out wednesday to go to dallas for work, and then thursday i leave for the lake, so i dont have a chance to take it by there before you guys leave for Clayton ??? what to do what to do. i will try and give gilbert at driveshafts inc a call today to get an idea on cost, if he is high then. . .BamaTJ you still think it will cost about $300 to get it done up by you?
wyatt has it with him to grind out this evening, i will call him and see if he can post up pics and specs. i believe it was a 1410 at the case and a 1320 (?) at the other end. its 20.5 inches long according to kelly's writing on the bottom of the jeep. that's the extent of my knowledge, once again i will leave it to wyatt and kelly to fill in the blanks.
Prices are as follows:
$200 for a conventional shaft, joint at each end.
$300 for a CV shaft
Just depends on what you need man.
$200 for a conventional shaft, joint at each end.
$300 for a CV shaft
Just depends on what you need man.
I
InDaShop
Guest
X
X
X
Cabot, check out Tom Woods site for a CV flange to run at the Tcase. You can reuse your 1350 slip at the axle and you will just need a re-tube and 1350 CV assembly. I am thinking it will run your between $200 and $250 to have this done at the ORC+shipping to you, but they will need your old shaft. I think the tcase flange is about $75 or so.
6uldv8
Well-Known Member
Crank, a new CV shaft will have you creaming in your panties! ;D My CJ had the same identical problem when I built it....the vibration echoed up thru the tranny so bad that I thought I was in for a major overhaul of a 435. Ordered a Tom Woods and it's been smooth as silk around the mall parking lot ever since. I saved my old driveshaft and yoke for emergency repairs in case I broke on speedbumps! ;D
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
I'd do this one as a spare, its solid and complete. or, you have a 1410 yoke to sell off for money, those are sought after. make sure you get at least a 1350 cv. no ****ing yota or 1310 ****. do it once right. you will have to climb under it and measure from center of joint cap on the yoke to center of cap on yoke to get the operating length. there was only 1.75" of travel in the slip from droop to compression. keep a 1350 at the rear, get a cv up top. man, I didn't want to add another $400ish to your build by doing that right off. after I got it in and drove it around, I learned. it has the angle, but the vibe is not doable. sorry.
again, at least 1350 cv.
again, at least 1350 cv.
I
InDaShop
Guest
X
X
X
i went by 4 wheel parts last night to order 2 new rancho rs 5000's for the front end. anyway while i was in there the guy next to me is saying how he bought a truck with 27 in of lift and that the driveshaft had been pulled and that he was having problems finding someone that could help him fix the problem(my first thought was maybe get rid of about 20 in of lift) anyway point being they gave him and me another guy here in houston that that is all that he does is customized cv joints and driveshafts. so i will need to come by and pick the driveshaft from you wyatt so i can take it by both groups to see how much they will charge me( this damn hobby is gettin expensive)
Bones
That Guy
Toyota **** is stout! Jesse says soblacksheep10 said:
We need better smilies
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
hey cabot, some of those "super angle gay cv joint mall truck 80*" shafts are more junk than a yota cv. be careful what you buy. YOu don't need anymore angle that that 1410 clearanced a little gave you. I don't remember what that was, but someone will know. you don't need a ****ing 45* joint. that's what the center limiter is for.
I
InDaShop
Guest
I dropped the clearanced shaft off to him just before lunch. He was heading out to his familys lake house (5hours away) with the wife and baby for the weekend at around 11:30. We'll hear from him next week.
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
did you make any other calls? find any other pricing?
well i am kind of waiting to talk to wyatt, he is busy as hell today, but i found 2 different shops here in houston that do driveshaft work and both come highly recommended. the group wyatt came up to clayton with(tgtw) uses driveshafts inc. so most likely i will take it to them first, just kind of want to make sure i have all measurements and whatever the fawk else i need when i get over to their shop. btw why dont the make a 1410 1410 cv joint, is it because they are so bulky? i hear everyone say a 1350 cv is indestructible wouldnt a 1410 cv be bulletproof, again no idea!!!
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
1410 and 1350 both have the same trunion size (the round machined area that the cap slides onto and the little needle bearings run on) and the same caps. therefore they are pretty much the same strength. the 1410 is wider and spreads the force out farther. the fact that it is wider is appealing because it allows for more angularity (also requires a deeper relief in the yoke and weld yoke). the deeper yokes make it longer from start to finish in a linear direction. putting 2 of them together would make a cv that was considerable bigger around and WAY longer. on a short ass shaft, you don't want a long cv, and since a cv only is at half the angle on its center yoke of the total angle a longer one would put the rear output back thus creating more angle for the tube. a 1350 cv is where its at if you can afford one. I cannot so I let the vibration jiggle my nuts out.
I
InDaShop
Guest
X
X
X
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
I think I have 10 more sitting there. the output bearings are the easy ones. I had an old truck puller get out of it and give me all his 205 parts. there's like 3 cases, couple gears sets, several output housings and bearings, 10 seals, rear covers, shift rails, all that. what I don't have is rear fixed yoke shafts. any
any well cruisertom is off to driveshafts inc. with my jeep driveshaft. hoping that this guy isnt too expensive. i am planning on him putting in a 1350 cv to mate up to the transfer case (hope thats what yall told me to do) now i talked to the wife and she is getting me the stickshift for fathers day :flipper: now all i have to do is pull of the the rear tire and figure out what the hell is leaking, hopefully its easy seeing as i am retarded and this is all new to me. only other real problem is the transmission is pretty much just douching my driveway with fluid, so down the road need to rebuild or buy a new one for now likely just keep it full. 
my goal is the end of July to have it street legal and ready to go, we will see. God i wish i knew what the hell i was doing, i feel like i am learning by brail 
my goal is the end of July to have it street legal and ready to go, we will see. God i wish i knew what the hell i was doing, i feel like i am learning by brail 
