custom sub inclosure

Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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phew said:
bi amp means using multiple amps to power other speakers in the system as well as the sub. Don't run a 5 channel amp and try to power everything with one amp. Run a "D" class sub amp to power the subs

haha i feel like a horses ass i should have known that:haha:

A passive crossover is in line between the amp and sub. They are saying use an electronic one like what is usually built into your amp. Or buy an aftermarket electronic crossover like audio control or the like. I personally am a fan of audio control they are based out of washington down on 220th and are REALLY REALLY good about customer service. Unless you are planning to do a really nice system youdon't really need an external crossover.
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so i have a couple crossovers like i was saying there pretty old tho.. my amp has a bass controller built into it controlled by a switch mounted to my dash.. is this a crossover or?
 
phew said:
Ah they may have the stuff to test your db's if you ask them.

If you have the room in the back of your rig you could build the sealed box design that jl has listed it's only 23" wide by 14" tall by 10" deep so for two you would need a 46"w x 14"t x 10"d
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thats the thing i would like to tilt the subs up a few degress so it wouldn't be as tall.
 
dove'd85 said:
so i have a couple crossovers like i was saying there pretty old tho.. my amp has a bass controller built into it controlled by a switch mounted to my dash.. is this a crossover or?
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Yes the switch is basically a gain controller for the bass and the crossover is built into the amp, The amp should have a switch on it somewhere marked hp lp full that is the crossover
 
dove'd85 said:
thats the thing i would like to tilt the subs up a few degress so it wouldn't be as tall.
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If you do that then you need to add the amount you took out to the over all of the box some where else. Math time
 
phew said:
Yes the switch is basically a gain controller for the bass and the crossover is built into the amp, The amp should have a switch on it somewhere marked hp lp full that is the crossover
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oh ok ya i do have that switch which setting will give me better low bass?
 
phew said:
If you do that then you need to add the amount you took out to the over all of the box some where else. Math time
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thanks alot for the help bro i oh you a few brews on the trail this year for pickin your brain for the last couple hours:cool:
 
dove'd85 said:
oh ok ya i do have that switch which setting will give me better low bass?
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lp = low pass thats the ONLY way you should run those subs otherwise you will get highs and mids.

Hp = high pass is for running mids/high

fp= full pass all sound no seperation of bass/mid/highs
 
dove'd85 said:
thanks alot for the help bro i oh you a few brews on the trail this year for pickin your brain for the last couple hours:cool:
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No problem I used to be into this stuff. Still kinda am just not as much. Still have a decent system in my rig but not near what I used to run.
 
Call this place tell um JP sent ya good shop good prices and great work

253 588 5556

its in tacoma

talk to raroo i cant spell his name lol
the shop is called Ampt Up Audio
 
dove'd85 said:
thats the thing i would like to tilt the subs up a few degress so it wouldn't be as tall.
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Build a fiberglass box to the specs JL has provided. Nice thing about fiberglass is you can form to any shape/contours of the vehicle & angle the subs any which way you would like. Also It is probably lighter than complete wood box and is also strong. There are alot of good tutorials online how to make them & you could get all the neccesary materials locally. :awesomework:
 
Good choice on the JL's. I'll never get anything else. I'm currently running a single 12W6 v2, and JL 500w mono block in my jeep. Its such a versitle system, i can get it loud enough to make my ears bleed and still sound clean, but can tone it down quiet for everything else since i dont listen to rap much anymore. And in my old jeep i had a couple JL 10w3's that were great as well. Try to get a deck with good sub controls.
 
JEEParon said:
Good choice on the JL's.
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they are tough, effecient, loud and use small enclosures.

I run a single JL ten dvc in a sealed box with three amps. A 400 watt punch mono amp to the sub, a 300 watt punch for the rear fill and a 300 watt PPI for the fronts.
 
X2 on JL having great quality & sound.

I've got an Orion H2 12" in a ported box (comparable to JL W7). It is loud as fawk but i like the better response of a sub in a sealed box, so soon I will build myself a nice sealed fiberglass box:awesomework:
 
CHOP SHOP said:
they are tough, effecient, loud and use small enclosures.

I run a single JL ten dvc in a sealed box with three amps. A 400 watt punch mono amp to the sub, a 300 watt punch for the rear fill and a 300 watt PPI for the fronts.
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Ya along with my JL stuff ive got an alpine 4channel to run my speakers- JBL gto series and some cheap tweets- and a power cap for everything, with a pioneer premier deck.

Anyone ever had JL component stuff? Ive got a brand new JL component set with speakers and tweets but havent gotten around to puttin them in. Ive been told that they arent on par with their subs but are some of the best in the price range. I know the JL tweets have got to be better than what im running right now but my GTO speakers are pretty good, i dont know if its worth switching them out.
 
JEEParon said:
Ya along with my JL stuff ive got an alpine 4channel to run my speakers- JBL gto series and some cheap tweets- and a power cap for everything, with a pioneer premier deck.

Anyone ever had JL component stuff? Ive got a brand new JL component set with speakers and tweets but havent gotten around to puttin them in. Ive been told that they arent on par with their subs but are some of the best in the price range. I know the JL tweets have got to be better than what im running right now but my GTO speakers are pretty good, i dont know if its worth switching them out.
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Ive never heard much on the JL components but they will be way better than any 3 or 4 way speaker IMO, especially if ran off of an amp.

Alot of people underestimate JBL's speakers, Ive been pretty impressed with some of the JBL speakers I have heard especially for the price :awesomework:
 
crossovers are kinda a thing of the past since most head units these days have a dedicated adjustable sub-out that usually has some cutoff frequencies to choose from as well as phase.
also ports are tubes cut at a certain length to resonate at a desired frequency, boosting bass. vented can mean the same thing, although vents are usually just an opening left in the cabinet somewhere.
 
greenie said:
crossovers are kinda a thing of the past since most head units these days have a dedicated adjustable sub-out that usually has some cutoff frequencies to choose from as well as phase.
also ports are tubes cut at a certain length to resonate at a desired frequency, boosting bass. vented can mean the same thing, although vents are usually just an opening left in the cabinet somewhere.
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Yes and no a good crossover will still give you clarity in the other components of your system.

In my truck I run a three amp system I run a 6.5 diamond d3 component set in the front powered by a 300 x 2 amp. d3 4inch 2way in the rear of my truck ran of another amp and a 1000 x2 sub amp pushing 2 mtx (:puke:) 12's in a sealed box. I still use the audio control 2 xs for my subs sounds much cleaner and crisp
 
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I have a gigantic vented box that hits at 124db with the subs i have. not too shabby.:D sell it to ya real cheap.:corn:
 
Also check your amp and see if it is 2 ohm stable and run you DVC in parrallel to drop your ohms to 2ohm's per speaker. running your speakers in parallel will also reduce your resistance in half getting you closer to true RMS. Just make sure your amp can handle it. With a DVC you can get 2 speakers down all the way to 1 ohm just in the way you wire them and the box. This is where you will see the most improvment in sound other than the box with the correct air space.

good luck

O ya and run a sealed box with the DUB 6's you will be very happy!
 
Ed Bister said:
Also check your amp and see if it is 2 ohm stable and run you DVC in parrallel to drop your ohms to 2ohm's per speaker. running your speakers in parallel will also reduce your resistance in half getting you closer to true RMS. Just make sure your amp can handle it. With a DVC you can get 2 speakers down all the way to 1 ohm just in the way you wire them and the box. This is where you will see the most improvment in sound other than the box with the correct air space.

good luck

O ya and run a sealed box with the DUB 6's you will be very happy!
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http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

Check out that link, this will give you different wiring options for different channel amps and subs.
 
im pretty sure my subs are wired parallel/parrallel.. so with two four ohm speakers wired this way, according to the JL wiring dia there is only 1 ohm of resistance? is this getting the most out of the subs possible?
 
dove'd85 said:
pics would be great:corn: oh and a price
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$50 sound ok? It got a little water on the back side beacause my cab had a leak, but i think it dried out ok, meanina it didnt fall apart :redneck: I'll have to look this weekend and can get some better pics of it. it's all 3/4" Particle board. It was designed with the subs in mind (think air space) to make for the best bump.:awesomework:
IMG_6030.jpg

IMG_6037.jpg
 

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