Dana 28 or 35?

Southernroots21 · Sep 20, 2012

So i am trying to get some things priced out on how much it would cost me to redo my own bearings on the front. and i am trying to figure out some torque specs and i am needing to know for sure if i have a dana 28 ttb up front or a 35. not real sure if it is what the truck says it is. cant be to sure seeing how it was modified when i get it. can anyone tell me. here is a couple pics if it helps

TrikeKid · Sep 20, 2012

Here's some reading for ya

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4wd_Front_Axles.html

Southernroots21 · Sep 20, 2012

i read almost everythingr i can on the ranger station and my truck says its a dana 28 but it looks to big to be one. thats the problem

Fordzuki · Sep 20, 2012

It does look like a 35, but it's hard to tell without getting a closer look.

And I think I know that ranger... :eeek:

TrikeKid · Sep 20, 2012

Southernroots21 said:
i read almost everythingr i can on the ranger station and my truck says its a dana 28 but it looks to big to be one. thats the problem

Read closer, the later trucks had 28 guts in a 35 housing. The engine type in your truck and the numbers off the diff tag would go a long way toward us helpin ya.

Dogboy · Sep 21, 2012

'93+ all used either a Dana 30 (D35 housing with 28 guts) or a D35. 4.0l ALL had a D35. I'm not sure what the rhyme or reason to the smaller engines is.

If you're talking about wheel bearings, then Regardless if its a 30, or 35, it has the same wheel bearings, hub and all. Even the pumpkin is the same shape, just the guts are different

I dont have time to search, but it's on TheRangerstation, you can pull the fill plug, and it has something to do with seeing the bearing cap or not, will tell you of it has a d30, or 35. If I'm not mistaken, seeing the bearing cap means it is a d30 (but look it to be sure.

Southernroots21 · Sep 21, 2012

Fordzuki said:
It does look like a 35, but it's hard to tell without getting a closer look.

And I think I know that ranger... :eeek:

You probably do i picked it up off a guy out of bonney lake.... and i will have my buddy back home pull the plug and tell me..... like i said i am trying to find torque specs and knowing what type of axle i have would help me find the specs i need

Dogboy · Sep 22, 2012

:beer:

Southernroots21 said:
You probably do i picked it up off a guy out of bonney lake.... and i will have my buddy back home pull the plug and tell me..... like i said i am trying to find torque specs and knowing what type of axle i have would help me find the specs i need

The torque specs of what?

Southernroots21 · Sep 22, 2012

for the axle nuts

Dogboy · Sep 22, 2012

Do you have auto or manual hubs?

If you have auto hubs, junk them and get manuals, but if you keep them, just tight the first nut until the wheel has just a slight about of drag, then back it off, intil it's gone. Then slide the little pin between the nut and the spindle to lock it in. Make SURE you slide the key in were the nut is grooved on the threads (it should slide right in, if it doesn't, you're doing it wrong). Somebody hammered in the key on mine and I had to cut the spindle nuts off.

If you have manual hubs, tighten the first nut, with the peg on one side, the same above. Then put the retainer ring on, then tighten the next jam nut as tight as you can.

EDIT: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Winter2002/hubs.htm

Above the last picture, they explain what I just mentioned. 150ft/lbs or more

The Mud Addict · Sep 22, 2012

Torque the outer to stuper tight:awesomework: I used to torque mine to spec, but was always having problems. Since been going over board on torque, no more issues

Fordzuki · Sep 22, 2012

Put a jackstand under the socket, and it'll help keep it from slipping off so you can megatorque it. :awesomework:

Dogboy · Sep 23, 2012

That spindle nut socket can be a knuckle buster. :corn:

Southernroots21 · Sep 24, 2012

Ok thanks for all the information guys it helps a lot. now for the inner do i torque that to spec or over torque that as well

Totalled · Sep 24, 2012

No. Adjust it till snug, back off, tighten till the play starts to zero. You want just a (unt hair of play. Then hold the inner nut steady with the lock washer, and tighten the everlivin **** out of the outer nut. I use a breaker bar. I've even used an impact, when I had a wussy one anyway.