• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Dana 44 upper ball joint adjusting sleeve

TQJ CJ5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
510
Once the knuckle is back in place in the "C", the lower ball joint nut has been tightened and it's time to torque the threaded adjusting sleeve retaining the upper ball joint, I'm not 100% sure what the proper torque value is for the adjusting sleeve. I've installed Spicer ball joints top and bottom. While I've found a technical service bulletin for Moog ball joints which states that the adjusting sleeve should be torqued to 70 lbs/ft, all the installation write-up's I've found state that it should be torqued to 50 lbs/ft.

For Spicer ball joints NOT Moog, what is the recommended torque value for the adjusting sleeve. Currently, mine is torqued to 50 pounds but I would like to make sure I have it correct before I drive on it.

Thank you in advance...

Terry
 
Lower nut: 100ft lbs
threaded sleeve: 50ft lbs
Upper nut: 100ft lbs

I have done about 40 Dana 44 fronts with Dana Spicer ball joints, and no problems.
 
Okay. So based on my reading of various knuckle installs prior to doing mine, I ended up torquing the 3 critical parts to the following values in this order:

(1) Lower Ball Joint: 70 lbs/ft
(2) Adjusting Sleeve: 50 lbs/ft
(3) Upper Ball Joint: 100 lbs/ft

Any reason for me to break it all down and re-torque?
 
I never torque the sleeve- that needs to be based off ball joint pre-load....


I don't know what the books use a torque seeting on those.
 
I wonder where 'partsmike' got the torque values cuz other than the value for the adjusting sleeve, his other values do not coincide with anything else I've read online (granted, I've not checked any actual shop manuals yet)
 
I wonder where 'partsmike' got the torque values cuz other than the value for the adjusting sleeve, his other values do not coincide with anything else I've read online (granted, I've not checked any actual shop manuals yet)

probally from doing , not reading online. besides a 44 is gonna fail ya long before it pukes balljoints.:beer:
 
as far as I know, his methods probably work fine but I was just noticing that 140 lbs/ft for the lower ball joint and 80 lbs/ft for the upper are unique values in comparison with what has been posted by everyone else who've replaced BJ's on a D44.

...and FYI, my lower ball joint was shot and everything else on the D44 was golden. However, I don't drive it to break it either.
 
probally from doing , not reading online. besides a 44 is gonna fail ya long before it pukes balljoints.:beer:

Not true at all.

The biggest problem I've had in the past is balljoints wearing out. (36" SX tires at the time) I would typically get 6 months out of a set, I tried all the brands except for the cheapest and they all lasted about the same.
 
Not true at all.

The biggest problem I've had in the past is balljoints wearing out. (36" SX tires at the time) I would typically get 6 months out of a set, I tried all the brands except for the cheapest and they all lasted about the same.

geee, it couldnt have anything to do with the running the heaviest swamper series that warbles more than any other swamper, could it?

maybe a set of 275/75/15s could help get some life back!!

balljoints dont last with big rubber. dont matter how you install them.:beer: imo
 
To do it properly, you need a fish scale.
Pull on the knuckle (tie rod hole) and torque the sleeve till there is 12 lb (IIRC) of "resistance to steering" if you will. Similar to the way you set pinion bearing preload, increase preload untill proper rotating resistance is achieved.

80 ft-lbs on the lower nut
100 ft-lbs on the upper
 
I've used Parts Mikes instructions on mine from day one and had good luck. Now if I could just keep the wheel bearings together :rolleyes:
 
if you install your bj's properly and grease them regularly they will last a while. in my old rig ( xj HPD44, 9", 36" TSL's) i drove it on the street, to the trail, and beat the **** out of it on the trail for over a year and never had any issues. when i parted it out, the bjs were still as tight as they were when i first put them in.

i know people who dont replace that threaded insert , which is VERY important in properly preloading the balljoints, and theyll have a brand new set of premium balljoints worn out in 3 months

i use partsmike instructions BTW aswell
 
Hey Terry where did you pick up the socket for the insert?

After reading this I'm gonna check the preload on mine, but I don't have the tool for adjusting the sleeve.:eeek:

I've tried NAPA, Carquest, Tool Town, and a couple others with no luck.:booo:
 
Hey Terry where did you pick up the socket for the insert?

After reading this I'm gonna check the preload on mine, but I don't have the tool for adjusting the sleeve.:eeek:

I've tried NAPA, Carquest, Tool Town, and a couple others with no luck.:booo:

NAPA has them. You need to ask a different monkey behind the counter.:rolleyes:
 
Top