Did I kill my Yota?

[wentz912]

Just as background info, I just bought this truck last night. It's an 81 Std cab long bed with a 22R with approx 201K on the ticker.

So I was driving to my dad's house for Easter dinner today and the truck died at a stop sign and hasn't started since

I stopped by my buddies house on the way down, and everything seemed okay. The batter had fallen off the tray and bent a couple fins on the radiator. It didn't seem to be leaking though so I hooked the battery back up to it's ground and off I went.

It had been smoking a little/smelling like hot/burning oil out of the PCV hole when I put the battery back at my buddies house. I fugured no big deal, get a new PCV valve while I'm in town and everything will be good to go.

BUT driving from buddies to dad's, started seeing more and more bluish exhaust as I went, mostly on shifts and getting on it to merge into traffic. It was at the stop sign right after I got off the highway that it died and didn't want to start again. After a couple failed attempts at starting I popped the hood and there was oily smelling smoke still coming out of the PCV area, as well as from back behind where you can see the valve cover going up under the firewall a bit. I can't tell if something is just leaking bad and dripping on someting hot or what but it defintely doesn't smell good.

So guys, WTF did I do to my new truck? Are the two issues even related? It's my DD until I can get another job and work on getting a little gas saver or something.

Hope you guys can help me out. It'd suck if I had to put a new motor in this thing so soon after getting it.

 

[slythorne]

BUT driving from buddies to dad's, started seeing more and more bluish exhaust as I went, mostly on shifts and getting on it to merge into traffic.

Is this some kinda late April Fool's Day Prank??
Blue exhaust is a clear sign of burning oil... most likely a head gasket...

Did you check the current rad coolant level? Oil level? What do they read? Does the motor turn over at all?

If it just died at the stop sign it might be ok... but still needing a head gasket at the least. You may have also warped the head. If it went "clunk" "clank" or "boom" or anything sounding similar, that is really not a good sign :flipoff:

 

[wentz912]

That's what I figured too... The oil was maybe 1/2 quart low, and the coolant could probably use a top off. The motor turns over but doesn't cough or stumble or try to start at all. It was actually kind of weird because I remember earlier today my defroster/heat being nice and hot but right before it died it was almost as cold as outside/ambient temps.

The engine temp gauge read normally yesterday and this morning, but sat right at the C on the gauge the entire drive from my house to my dad's.

And on how it died, I was rolling up to the stop sign at the end of the off-ramp, started downshifting like normal, etc, etc. Then as I clutched to actually stop, the tach just dropped and it died. No noises or anything like that. It actually kind of threw me off for a second cuz the damn thing runs so quiet, didn't even notice it died until I tried to go again.

 

[FastEddy]

your engine is probably toast run a comp test pull the spark plugs check them out see what there lookin like check you t stat burning oil under load and rpm change could be rings or a valve seal

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

No heater means no water... you cooked it.

 

[wentz912]

Well this is ****ing awesome. Anybody got a 22R they want to get rid of for cheap? :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[slythorne]

Is it that easy to kill a 'Yota?? Man... with the thefts and easily cooked motors, I am glad I have a Ford :fawkdancesmiley:

Like the other poster said.. try replacing the spark plugs and see if that gets you anywhere... if not, remove oil cap, throw rest of truck away, roll new truck under, put cap on :redneck:

 

[FastEddy]

no way you cant kill em just ether the **** out of it right???.. and as far as the no heater could be a thermostat to where areyou located? i got a 22r i think

 

[wentz912]

I'm located In kelso,WA. it's exit 36 on I-5. Way down south from seattle. bout a half hour north of Vancouver WA

I'm going to try playing with the spare parts that I've got and see what happens.

 

[wentz912]

More info.

So I ended up discovering that my radiatior was absolutely toast. Apparently where I thought it had only bent a couple fins it had actually totally broken off one of the tubes. And the reason I hadn't seen it leaking is because it was fawking empty :looser:

Anyways, so I got that pulled out and gotten rid of, new rad should be here in the morning. :awesomework:

Also, ran a compression test since I didn't really have anything else to do. The compression tested as follows:

#1- 75 psi
#2- 90 psi
#3- 90 psi
#4- 90 psi

Now, according to both my Chilton's and the shiz that's in the bag with my compression tester, the engine is supposed to be at operating temperature when the compression is tested. So I'm guessing that my numbers are a little low due to that.

Common sense tells me that my head gasket has gone bye bye somewhere around cylinder one. The weird thing is that Cylinder #1s spark plug looked the best out of the group.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the new rad installed and trying to get her started.

Let me know if you guys have any advice.

 

[Ed Bister]

So I ended up discovering that my radiatior was absolutely toast. Apparently where I thought it had only bent a couple fins it had actually totally broken off one of the tubes. And the reason I hadn't seen it leaking is because it was fawking empty :looser:

Anyways, so I got that pulled out and gotten rid of, new rad should be here in the morning. :awesomework:

Also, ran a compression test since I didn't really have anything else to do. The compression tested as follows:

#1- 75 psi
#2- 90 psi
#3- 90 psi
#4- 90 psi

Now, according to both my Chilton's and the shiz that's in the bag with my compression tester, the engine is supposed to be at operating temperature when the compression is tested. So I'm guessing that my numbers are a little low due to that.

Common sense tells me that my head gasket has gone bye bye somewhere around cylinder one. The weird thing is that Cylinder #1s spark plug looked the best out of the group.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the new rad installed and trying to get her started.

Let me know if you guys have any advice.

try adding a few drops of oil in the spark plug hole and turning the motor over a few times to spread it around the rings and see if the compression goes up if it does then the rings are going out or are burnt. If it does not go up then take off your valve cover and turn the number one cyilinder to valve over lash witch mean both intake and exsaust are closed compleatly then put 100 psi or so into the spark plug hole and listen if the air comes out of your throtal body it is a burnt intake valve if it comes out of you tail pipe it is a burnt exsaust valve. this is how you tell if a head job will fix your issue.
:beer:

 

[HotRodJosh]

Common sense tells me that my head gasket has gone bye bye somewhere around cylinder one. The weird thing is that Cylinder #1s spark plug looked the best out of the group.

Uh....why do you think that? What did the plugs themselves look like? Fill the rad with water, remove the thermostat and crank it over, you should see bubbles in the filler neck, from compression....if the gasket "popped". Even if you did get the engine "hot", it's pretty hard to kill a Toyota engine.
It sounds to me like you've just got a worn engine, by the way the engine is smoking blue, which is oil blowing past the rings...and compression leaking by going out pcv. If it only smokes during decelleration (high vacuum), then it's pulling oil around the valve seals.

Try what ed said first though....:beer:

 

[wentz912]

new headgasket was all it was.

Runs great now.

Just shut down from the heat.

 

[slythorne]

Maybe Toyotas aren't are expensive as others make them out to be after all.... anyways, congrats on getting it back on the road :awesomework:

 

[2slow4you]

Congrats and FYI the reason why spark plug #1 looked so good was due to the HG letting go. Think of what happens when water hits an extremely hot place, it steamed cleaned your cylinder...

 

[wentz912]

Thanks guys. Stay tuned for a build thread in the garage. I've got big plans for this go around with me having a toyota.



MUAHAHAHAHAHA :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[shrtscrplr]

So I ended up discovering that my radiatior was absolutely toast. Apparently where I thought it had only bent a couple fins it had actually totally broken off one of the tubes. And the reason I hadn't seen it leaking is because it was fawking empty :looser:

Anyways, so I got that pulled out and gotten rid of, new rad should be here in the morning. :awesomework:

Also, ran a compression test since I didn't really have anything else to do. The compression tested as follows:

#1- 75 psi
#2- 90 psi
#3- 90 psi
#4- 90 psi

Now, according to both my Chilton's and the shiz that's in the bag with my compression tester, the engine is supposed to be at operating temperature when the compression is tested. So I'm guessing that my numbers are a little low due to that.

Common sense tells me that my head gasket has gone bye bye somewhere around cylinder one. The weird thing is that Cylinder #1s spark plug looked the best out of the group.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the new rad installed and trying to get her started.

Let me know if you guys have any advice.

those numbers do seem low. try doing a cylinder leak down test. that give you a better idea of whats going on. when you do it and you got bubles coming out the radiator then you know u got a bad head gasket.

 

[Ed Bister]

new headgasket was all it was.

Runs great now.

Just shut down from the heat.

whats your compresion now? did you have the head resurfaced and valves reground? with that much heat there is a good chance of warpage but you must have if it runs great i'm glad you got it figuared out!
good luck and send me a PM if you need any advice. i'm always willing to help!:beer:

 

[wentz912]

whats your compresion now? did you have the head resurfaced and valves reground? with that much heat there is a good chance of warpage but you must have if it runs great i'm glad you got it figuared out!
good luck and send me a PM if you need any advice. i'm always willing to help!:beer:

Haven't run another compression test yet. After the next tank of gas I'm going to go back through and re-torque the head bolts, following the advice of the machinist that resurfaced my head.

The head's a skiny minny though. Had to put in a .020" shim in order to run it. If I blow the HG again, it'll be time for a new head.

 

[shrtscrplr]

try doing a leak down test.