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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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I thought 90/10 would give the best results for what you're looking for. I don't know if that gas was dirty or what I did but it is sad that my welds are the thumbnail images for this thread on tapatalk lol. I've used tri gas at work while welding just regular mild steel and had good results as far as the look goes but the Lincoln Power Mig 300 or whatever needs to be thrown in the woods. It auto adjusts itself to how it thinks you're welding and never puts enough heat in your work. Looks like a caterpillar is laying on 1/8" metal.
 
If its a pulse machine then you might need different gas, I know I use 95/10 on my 456 invision machine. Ive use almost every type on my smaller mig (210 miller)
For cages it seems like .025 wire always worked better than .035 wire for appearances, my welds are strong I just want to get rid of those gassy marks.
 
i use 95/5 gas and i like spray transfer like a MF'er on my 456 invision,. and hardly get any gas spots. i know surface prep goes a long way!
 

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wont work said:
Done lots of welding but Saturday was a first for me. 1/4 copper. Scratch start tig set on 200 amps with a miller big blue 400.

This was my first weld of the day and on copper.

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The trick with copper is having amperage adjustability on the fly with a pedal or hand control. Copper sucks so much heat but once you get it there need to back the heat off to flow a good puddle. I run lift arc 80% of the time but on copper fittings and aluminum i like the adjustability. I just set my machine wide open and use the pedal. Get it to puddle fast then back off the amps and let it flow. Looks good tho especially for that thick of a piece. just noticed what machine you welded it with.. all i have to say is hell ya
 
stuftmunky2k said:
The trick with copper is having amperage adjustability on the fly with a pedal or hand control. Copper sucks so much heat but once you get it there need to back the heat off to flow a good puddle. I run lift arc 80% of the time but on copper fittings and aluminum i like the adjustability. I just set my machine wide open and use the pedal. Get it to puddle fast then back off the amps and let it flow. Looks good tho especially for that thick of a piece. just noticed what machine you welded it with.. all i have to say is hell ya
Click to expand...

True but sometimes you just gotta use what you got. No way to adjust amps with my setup and was on a time crunch. I have a bobcat 250 i put in pickup sometimes and go weld but it didnt donas well running that high of amps so the big blue had to work and the customer was very happy considering it was taking their guys 50 hrs to do one building and burning the wall and me and a friend did 3 buildings in 9.5 hrs.

On the smoked weld look joint prep before the weld is your friend. Lots of variable that could make it do that such as some you have changed. Is your wire old?

Here is my mobile setup.



 
It wasn't as clean as it could have been. You can see other BB's and stuff in it too.
 
Quick job I did adding a winch to a goose neck trailer, not much prep done.

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Shock tab on a bro lite truck

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New truss on my 60 front

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matt
 
Elliott said:
I hope this doesn't come out wrong like im knocking on anyones work here, because that's not how its meant at all. That being said, look at the picture at the top of this page, see how it has the burned gas look on the outside of the weld, this is what I fight, I have been trying to get a gas that would not do this. Right now Im back on some tri-mix, we just went thru 70lbs of wire with it doing a factory job and I seem to like it so far but have not tried it on a cage yet. I've seen a Jimmey Smith chassis a while back and the welds were clean as anyones, with no gas marks and no wire brush marks, and I sure would like to know how that is done.
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I clean every tube with a flap wheel to knock mill scale off it before I weld. The black burned area in the HAZ is actually the burned residue left from the antispatter spray I was using at the time. On clean tube all you get is the blue HAZ
 
If you look at those 4 bars crossed like that can see that is sweet, anyone that has done much cage work can look at that and think dang that is some good work, to me that is the hardest to get to look right, that and hitting a bar in the bend of a halo bar in a drag car.
 
Here's a shot of what my welds usually look like. Far from perfect but I haven't had one break yet so it can't be all that bad. I would like to actually get taught the proper way to mig/tig weld one day though

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Sent from yo momma' house
 
Practiced on TIG today..

Not perfect but I'm Youtube/self-taught..

Walking the cup
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This was in a really tight spot for the size cup I was using..
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Had to hold upside down left handed
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I got a free lawnmower that apparently they just dropped the deck to the ground and let her eat? The entire stamped lip around the bottom was almost gone and the deck kept bending into the blade. Should've took some before shots but this is the result!
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I'll play, I've been working on a race car and started welding up the cage. I'll post some fix up and welded pictures.
 

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Frustration is understandable. Less amperage and move faster. You will get better at it
 
Gotta remember that thing called gravity lol. I prefer to push my overhead rather than pull it with mig. Not an aggressive push, but just enough to keep the puddle from falling. All the puddle essentially is is liquid metal so using a "pull" will cause the puddle to droop and fall


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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