Do we have a welding thread on here?

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MarsFab said:
I'll play.





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Well. Good game. I quit. :woot: Holy weld off between you and j duck!!! Good lord man. I swear to God I'd work for free to learn that ****! :****:
Makes me wanna sell my pos welder. Nice work man. I just realized how bad I suck.
 
Haha I hear ya. I live on the wrong coast for that. around here everybody wants lime green or bright orange smh.
 
The MIG welding was done with my millermatic dvi or millermatic 212 and the TIG stuff was done with either a Hobart TIGWave, Miller econoTIG or Thermal arc 186 AC/DC.
 
i would like to know what wire diameter and gas. the weld on the tube is hard to make look like that with .035, well let me rephrase that, its hard for me to. I think besides the weld, the fit up has a lot to say for itself as well. that takes time and it looks fantastic.
 
Thank you. I've worked long and hard to get that caliber of weld. Every one of those MIG welds was made with .030 er70s wire. I'm actually wanting to invest in a small 110v machine like a mm140 or comparable. I'd like to set it up with .024 wire and use it strictly for tube work. I've played around with it some and really like that it allows you to slow down even more and stack the filler where you want it.
 
MarsFab said:
Thank you. I've worked long and hard to get that caliber of weld. Every one of those MIG welds was made with .030 er70s wire. I'm actually wanting to invest in a small 110v machine like a mm140 or comparable. I'd like to set it up with .024 wire and use it strictly for tube work. I've played around with it some and really like that it allows you to slow down even more and stack the filler where you want it.

Nothing to add about the welding. You make some pretty welds.

But your signature is true.

The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten.

But when you pay the higher price and the quality sucks. It is a real pisser.
 
Thanks man. I have no idea if I'm doing it right. Just figured out a combination that works for me. Really short stickout and angled up just a bit. Though my uphill still looks like a blind dog with seizures did it.
 
Looks good.
Just a tip. Cut your wire speed down or volts up a touch and will help with that spatter
 
MarsFab said:
Looks great!
wont work said:
Looks good.
Just a tip. Cut your wire speed down or volts up a touch and will help with that spatter
Thanks guys. And I'll definitely give that a try. My welder has 1-7 for voltage and 0-100 for wire speed. I usually go just a hair higher on the speed. For example, if I'm at 4 on voltage, I'll go about 43ish on wire. That's what that weld was done at. I'll try bumping it down to 40. Kinda wish I had real voltage/fpm settings.
 
Beerj said:
Thanks guys. And I'll definitely give that a try. My welder has 1-7 for voltage and 0-100 for wire speed. I usually go just a hair higher on the speed. For example, if I'm at 4 on voltage, I'll go about 43ish on wire. That's what that weld was done at. I'll try bumping it down to 40. Kinda wish I had real voltage/fpm settings.

You don't need numbers to adjust a welder. Sight and sound is your friend on setting a machine. Just because you set one machine on those settings one identical to it may be set 15 amps lower and 20 volts higher. Welders are built the same but they are just like all machines all are a little different and then you factor in longer welding cables, smashed liner, different wire, and etc. So you what you know about what a weld should look like and sound like during welding to set your machine and forget those numbers on the machine.
 
Agree with wont work on the sight and sound. Guys at work always wanna ask me about settings, and all I can say is "heck I don't know. Go look yourself" I adjust my machine pretty much daily on how it sounds or how I'm feeling. If I was deaf there is no possible way I could tune a welder


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Part of setting up a machine correctly is having the wiring and power supply correct for the machine. To truly get consistency in your welds and not end up with good days and bad days as often this is critical. If a guy doesn't use the same settings every time he welds the same type joint and material thickness it means he either doesn't have the machine dialed in correctly or the power supply isn't consistent.
Many constant voltage machines don't give you the actual voltage and wire feed per inch your using. I have no idea why and I don't like it, especially on a machine like my mm212 auto set. It has an infinitely variable voltage knob. Every time you move it and come back you have no way of knowing if you're in exactly the same spot.
On many of the 250 amp and up MIG machines like the Lincoln 255, 256 or the millerMatic 252 they give you a digital read out of the voltage down to a 10th of a volt. It's a nice feature but one major draw back to them is the huge 250 amp gun and consumables. I prefer to use a much smaller tweco mini gun. Just don't expect it to live very long welding at high current for a long time. For 90% of the 4wd world we never go over 19 or 20 volts.
To add to what "wont work" said. I agree you don't need to really know the actual numbers if you're just trying to make a decent weld. But if you want truly consistent and repeatable results you need to know what they are and it's a great idea to make a cheat sheet for every joint type and material thickness.
On my old dvi I have pen marks on the faceplate for where to set the dials it's very helpful


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Bumping this thread back up since I'm learning tig now. Figured I'd see what this "walking the cup" is all about.
 
I like it! The secret to it, is in your hood. :****: Best thing I ever did to help with learning Heliarc welding, was to force myself to do things with my offhand. I made myself eat, brush my teeth, etc. with my left hand. It helped tremendously. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a jamb up TIG welder by any means, but some days I am. :rolf:
 
Need some advice regarding new welder purchase please.

Currently using Hobart140, love it, it has always treated me well, but I am getting into bigger projects and need the amperage.

I'm going to get either the Eastwood Mig175 or Eastwood Mig250.

Main question, is the 60% duty cycle worth the extra cost of the 250?

Alternatively, with the added benefit of being able to burn thicker material, AND being able to run off 120v should I need to take the machine on the road with me, is there any real reason to consider the 175?

The 175 comes with a spool gun, but I really don't see doing much aluminum work, plus it can always be added to the 250 down the road.

Thoughts, opinions?
Thanks!
 
Are you stuck on Eastwood?


Have you considered a Hobart Handler 210 since you like the 140? I have one and its absolutely awesome.. They go on sale at Tractor Supply pretty often for like $799 or something..

And its spoolgun ready.



Not sure how it compares to the Eastwoods are far as duty cycle and such, but unless your production welding then you likely wont ever come near it.. I've purposely tried to get mine to cut off and haven't been able to..
 
Dwill817 said:
Are you stuck on Eastwood?


Have you considered a Hobart Handler 210 since you like the 140? I have one and its absolutely awesome.. They go on sale at Tractor Supply pretty often for like $799 or something..

And its spoolgun ready.



Not sure how it compares to the Eastwoods are far as duty cycle and such, but unless your production welding then you likely wont ever come near it.. I've purposely tried to get mine to cut off and haven't been able to..
Agreed, I run the same thing and it's been nothing but a pleasure to use
 


I'll play.

That is a 4"od 3"I'd tube for scale.

Not as pretty as some of yours.
 
FYI...www.weldersupply.com has the Miller 211 with AutoSet on sale for $1079 right now and Miller has a $100 rebate on it so...$979 shipped to your door. They ship quick...and I got my rebate from Miller 2 weeks later. I love it!
 
More welding....
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Eddyj said:
Please explain what we are looking at? Is that all weld?

Yes sir, those are all weld beads almost 2" buildup, on a 46x66 area 1700lbs of .120 mig wire.

Each weld bead is roughly 2" wide x 12-18" long and 3/16-1/4 high. All hand layed.

Last project was over 13k of wire, and 22" thick in the deep end. Have some pics of that if anyone is interested.
 
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